Which V8 unit should i go for???

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mirafiori

New Member
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7
Hi all just wondering which V8 to use in a possible Tomcat build???

Been looking at Bowler wildcat engine options and they use Jag units.

Which Rover V8 is the most reliable> When given a little bit of tuning?
Which will stay somewhat reliable??

Plan on using manual box R380 Or Lt 85

Transfer box 90/92 RRC for viscous coupling. Lt 230 unit.

Diffs from Tomcat motorsport 4.75 ratio

2000- Disco Axle's

Any insight would welcome

regards
adam
 
Hi all just wondering which V8 to use in a possible Tomcat build???

Been looking at Bowler wildcat engine options and they use Jag units.

Which Rover V8 is the most reliable> When given a little bit of tuning?
Which will stay somewhat reliable??

Plan on using manual box R380 Or Lt 85

Transfer box 90/92 RRC for viscous coupling. Lt 230 unit.

Diffs from Tomcat motorsport 4.75 ratio

2000- Disco Axle's

Any insight would welcome

regards
adam

Them two words dont belongin the same sentance :D
 
Still need suggestion regarding power plant to use...

Should i just go for a jap based power plant be it petrol v8 lexus or isuzu 3.1 diesel???
Providing they will fit application.

Or perhaps Bmw 540i engine dont no if that would work or not...

Anyone????

regards adam
 
Zen over on LRO has just fitted a lexux lump to a Rangie......
Difficult conversion, as there's no manual flywheel available, he had to have one custom made, amongst a host of other stuff....
I'd stick with the tries & trusted buick block...... TVR 5.0l Hybrid is what they used in the Bowler...... but for something DIY able, reliable and moderately owner freindly, I'd go for a 4.0l P38 lump, rip the management kit off it and go Mega-Squirt, with some 'mild' tuning, like say, high ratio roller rockers, stage 3 head, and a Hi-torque cam on TRV lifters, not Rhodes or solids.
a 'built' motor is as reliable as you build it, so really wouldn't matter too much where you start from, except that the 4.0l+ motors got bigger bearings....
Oh.... would have it relinered with top hats, and probably grooved for Wills rings if I was doing it, and if feeling 'flush' carrillo rods and some nice flat-top forged pistons, on lightened balenced crank. In which case, I'd possibly be persuaded to enlarge the bores a bit, and possibly go 'all the way' to 5.0l.
But get the bottom end right, and dont go too silly over the top and it should hold together no matter how much abuse you chuck at it......... well........
Standard bottom end, properly put together, should be reliable to around 7-8K rpm, with around 3-350 bhp turning it, add the carrillos and lightened toughened crank and foirged slugs, you can take that up to around 450bhp, and the same sort of revs.
Its competition references though, we're not talking 10K mile service intervals and a 250K mile 'life' like a proddy motor....
On stock bottom end, with 300ish, you are looking at 2000miles between oil changes, and rebuild after perhaps 20K miles.
Push the power up, and that starts dropping.
Use the competition rods and slugs and prepped crank, margin for safety increases, and you could possibly push rebuild out to 30K miles.
BUT, all depends on how hard you use the motor, and how you install it.
Devil is in the detail, and you need to pay as much attension to stuff like the radiator, oil cooler, remote filter adaptor and plumbing etc.
And of course the 'set up', ignition and timing........ worth a rolling road set-up, and 'concervative' fueling map.
 
BMW 540i 4.0 engine is the way forward (not the later 4.4)

with a remap you will have 325 bhp 340 ftlbs of torque. it will do 300,000 miles and use half the fuel of the rover unit , thay are cheap in a car and can be bought with a 6 speed manual box which is very tough.

forged steel crank is nice too and if your going to work it hard the duplex double row timing chains will be durable ,the 4.0 has those and also does not have the head gasket problems of the 4.4. all that for a fw hundred quid , thaink how much it would cost to build a rover unit to that spec.
 
I was thinking about that all night as in a couple of years I will be doing this to my classic as that rover lump is a bit crap.

I would leave the nice bmw 6 speed manual on the engine and if it doesnt fit the dimensions of the original box just move the transfer box to suit. remember this is part of a major build not just a service of the original.

In my case I already have the 4.0 bmw v8 , and its got a 5 speed auto attached, I will keep this as I like the auto. The 5hp30 which it is was used in the same body of bmw as the 4hp22 which my classic is running so I think it will fit ok. it will be a body off job for me too so I can tackle the rust too!
 
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