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LandyZone - Land Rover Forum

So, following on from my previous thread about timing the 300Tdi FIP (found here: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/it-should-be-simple-300tdi-fip-timing.311147/ )

I took the day off today to change the timing belt, crank sprocket, idler and tensioner. It would also give me a chance to reset the FIP timing.

As could be seen from the previous thread, when I did a recon view inside the timing cover, the crank sprocket was slowly munching the woodruff keys (typical when muppets don't torque the crank bolt up properly!) so that all needed to be addressed to.

So with no more gilding the lilly and further ado, lets get to it!

First is to remove the viscous fan unit (mine doesn't have one - but if yours does, you'll have to remove it! - remeber it is a lefthand thread)


While the drive belt is on, loosen the idler pulley nuts using a 10mm socket


Using a 15mm socket or spanner, rotate the belt tensioner up and away so the belt can be removed from the pulleys



Continue to remove the ldler pulley


When I did our 200Tdi powered Ninety Truck Cab ( How to here: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-ro...ange-and-cylinder-head-refresh-how-to.282586/ ), I made a pulley holding tool - the 200Tdi has a deep dish to the crank pulley hence why it is so tall, for the 300Tdi, it is a little too tall but it does the job. I'll post the dimensions for this tool at the end (when I find them!)


Using the longer bolts from the Timing Kit - relatively in-expensive from the bay of E


Bolt the pulley...

The great gathering of the clan will take place from Friday 23rd to Sunday 25th June

in the beautiful Leicestershire countryside.

A weekend of family fun set in the grounds of Stanford Hall to celebrate 13 years of LandyZone.

Where is this amazing Stanford Hall?

(click on the map to be sent to google)
Stanford Hall   Google Maps.png
What will be we be doing?
We will have a large marquee with a licensed bar from Friday evening through the weekend.
That's two lagers and two CAMRA award winning real ales on tap.

Guided green laning trips on Saturday and Sunday graded for suitability of all Land Rovers.

Anything else?
Jeez, you lot are demanding! Ok, ok how about..
  • Events
  • Competitions
  • Auctions
  • Raffles

SOLD! It looks amazing! What do I need to bring?

Well, we've got the basics covered.,

Hot food will be available for sale throughout from Friday through to Sunday morning.

Excellent quality toilets exclusively for the use of LandyZone

The site is pet friendly, dogs should be kept on leads in the main event area but there are large woods adjacent to the site that we have access to for dog walking/running.

How much?

Children are very welcome and have free entry.

Tickets are available here.... https://www.eventbrite.co.uk/e/landyzone-13-2017-tickets-31494050553
Cost is £50 (+handling fee) per vehicle including up to 2 adults for the...
Afternoon all

As i received the attached instruction from the guys that supplied my parts thought be good idea to upload the TSB and instructions i received so that others can benefit

Help ya selves

OK, so there are a lot of posts on tailgates not opening and a lot of theories around the method to open them. I had one of these troublesome doors so thought I would get to the bottom of the problem.

First thing to do is get into the load space which means climbing in there. Now pull the door trim off by pulling from the top. There are 4 screws at the bottom which may be inaccessible until the door is open.

Once off inside the door you will see a plug on the bottom of the lock assembly, remove this by pushing the locking mechanism in and pulling down.
Now armed with a voltmeter set to read 12v connect it to the connections in the plug, bits of wire may help here. Then you will need to go round to the door handle outside but still be able to see the voltmeter reading. Operating the handle you should see a momentary 12v appear and then go back to 0v. If you do the wiring to the latch is OK, if not then you will need to find the fault elsewhere.

To get the latch assembly out you need to get the door open but the pic below shows one screw, circled in red, you need to remove first. Also remove the 2 plugs.
[GALLERY=] screw.png [/GALLERY]
This pic shows the other side of the assembly.
[GALLERY=] actuator.png [/GALLERY]
With the screw removed what you need to do is pull the plastic cover, arrowed in red, up far enough to be able to pull the lever circled down and the door should open. It is fairly brutal but the only way! Beware if your window won’t go down as it will catch on the surround, luckily for me I could lower the window.

Once the door is open you can undo the 4 screws, 2 cross head and 2 TORX, the latch assembly should come out now, but be aware the cables are on a clip going over the top of the assembly but the clip can be released with a pair of pliers through the top hole in the door.

With the assembly out detach the solenoid from the latch by twisting the arm out.

workshop manual rover 75 BMW47 td4 diesel 2.0
After my recent trials with a wiper motor and not being able to find much on changing brushes, I thought I'd post this in case anyone could benefit from my mistakes.

When you buy new brushes they come mounted on a card for direct replacement including the wires.

In this shot the motor has been removed by simply unscrewing the two long nuts on the bottom of the cylinder body and gently pulling apart. The new brushes are now ready to install.


You need to take the motor from the cylinder for later but when you do the magnets on the inside of the cylinder will give you a little tug of war. Once you have won this 3 second battle dont lose the little ball bearing that is no doubt by now stuck to one of the magnets. It lives in the hole at the bottom end of the shaft.

Back at the brushes, you can take out the three retaining screws and before removing the wiring do yourself a favor and screw the new one in place.


This gives you half a chance of getting the spade connections in the right order.


So fit the spades and bin the old brushes easy peasy.

The commutator and motor can now be fitted back to the unit. Dont put the motor back in its case. This is important. You see in the dark and rain whilst panicking about getting to work the next day this is just what I did and when it wouldnt go back together I forced it. Thats why I am changing these brushes at all.
I destroyed the old ones as you can see below. Totally smashed out of their brackets and burnt out when switched on.


You can see that the commutator does not slip back in...

As many of you know we had a fundraiser in memory of a well loved LZ member Freddy007 at the LZ11 gathering and via a justgiving link here on the forum.

Last week we had news from justgiving and today 20/6 being Freddys birthday it seems appropriate to announce....
If you can read this you have made it to the new system. We've been working on this for some time now, but I'm sure there will be problems and things not quite working right.
The picture gallery is still being imported, it will eventually be here!

We are now running xenForo software, which is a bit more up to date than the 6 year old vBulletin 3.8 software that we previously ran. Some new features you may like, some you may not!

Please reply to this with problems and general comments. Preferably constructive! Somethings have still to be added, some things have still to be programmed. Really we shouldn't have opened up the forum again so soon, but you all pressured us(well @Rosie did) :D

Please bear with us on requests and smileys and stuff, we still have a lot more work to do.
I wanted to add Bluetooth functionality to my p38a Range Rover, but didn't want to replace the entire head unit unless I had to do so. As there seems potential issues with the steering wheel controls and if it has the additional harman/kardon amplifier in the boot/trunk.

Please take this information at face value, I cannot guarantee the accuracy of any of it, nor am I affiliated with any of the companies.

General info:

My research has lead me to understand that there are two main radio options on the 99+ model year p38a's. I believe they are both Alpine units. The difference I know of, is one is a 'premium' system and has a sub and amp in the trunk, while the other doesn't.

In order to get Bluetooth you will need a CD changer capable headunit and steering wheel controls. If you don't, then you'll need to research yourself on what options you have.

My head unit looks like this:


The 'premium' version is likely to say harman/kardon on the door tweeters:

And should have a CD changer in the boot, along with a sub and amp:
Cowasaki's electrical tutorial part 2

If you have not seen part 1 of the tutorial then have a look at it but here is the long promised follow up with specific instructions for tests and checks.....


Using test equipment

Test equipment is only really useful when you know what you are testing. This relates to both how the device should be reacting and what it is actually doing.

Using a device such as a multimeter we are able to measure voltage (v), current (amps/a/i) and resistance (r) or impedance. Using simple equations from part 1 of the tutorial you can calculate power (watts/w) which is important when calculating what rating of wire, fuse or relay to use.

A multimeter will usually just give clues as to problems rather than spell them out so it is important to understand the reasons and how things interact. A low voltage at a bulb doesn't tell you what the fault is but it tells you where to start looking. It could be due to voltage drop because of power connection along the wire, a low battery or poor ground. Using the multimeter and information from the circuit diagram we can see how the bulb interacts with other components and then test resistance and voltage at other locations and work out where the fault lies. A lot of it is experience but hopefully with this tutorial and others I have planned you will be able to fix things without pulling out your hair.