installing hot start fix

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
IMG_20201223_014726.jpg


Uhm fellas.....

A little spoonfeeding please.

I'm pretty sure my car has developed the hot start problem. Ever since the engine swap, it's been easier to start cold than hot, but it's never been uncomfortably difficult to start hot- until today. Today it took a HECK of a lot of cranking to get it to fire up hot, so much so I was beginning to fear I'd run the battery flat before the car fired.

So back at the Batcave, I pulled out my Faultmate and got the attached readings. It says "Timing Modulation: 52.26%" and I have no idea what it SHOULD read. RAVE says "0.90MM +/- 0.02mm" which I reckon isn't the same language. Here's the questions:-
1) what SHOULD the "Timing Modulation" figure be for an engine that has covered 20k km?
2) IF it turns out my "Timing Modulation" is out of whack, would it be ok for me to just fix the symptom and adjust the FIP or should I really deal with the guts of it and fix the timing (or rather have it fixed)?
3) IF it turns out that my "Timing Modulation" is ok, where else should I be looking?

Cheers!

view
 
Depends if it’s late or early model. Later models shouldn’t need an hotstart. Would give you an indication by fact the glow lamp will come on even when hot every turn of they key.
You need good glow plugs obviously

More than likely you need to set the static timing of the FIP. 20,000 is the service interval for it. 0.95mm lift on new chains/engine, after 20,000 it should be adjusted to 0.90mm.
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/2-5dt-fip-static-timing-ominous-hotstart-found.347592/
 
RangeRoller dt said:
Depends if it’s late or early model. Later models shouldn’t need an hotstart. Would give you an indication by fact the glow lamp will come on even when hot every turn of they key.
You need good glow plugs obviously

More than likely you need to set the static timing of the FIP. 20,000 is the service interval for it. 0.95mm lift on new chains/engine, after 20,000 it should be adjusted to 0.90mm.
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/2-5dt-fip-static-timing-ominous-hotstart-found.347592/
Click to expand...
Mine's a 1997 so I'm not sure if that's early or late. I don't have the tools to do the static timing adjustment so I was kind of hoping to use my Faultmate's "Timing Modulation" reading to get me where I need to be. Unfortuantely I can't seem to find the value to shoot for. Heh.
 
If it has no MAF and a metal inlet manifold it probably needs an hotstart. They can fault eventually. Not sure when they brought in the change, brings lift pump on when cranking is all. Check to see if your glows still come on repeatedly when warm.

Your modulation is fine according to your diagnostics. Has to be checked at fully warm idle. Any fault codes logged?
 
RangeRoller dt said:
If it has no MAF and a metal inlet manifold it probably needs an hotstart. They can fault eventually. Not sure when they brought in the change, brings lift pump on when cranking is all. Check to see if your glows still come on repeatedly when warm.

Your modulation is fine according to your diagnostics. Has to be checked at fully warm idle. Any fault codes logged?
Click to expand...
Thanks buddy! I'll check for the MAF (never had to before) but I do remember the glowplug light coming on, on the dash even when the engine is warm VERY occasionally. Like maybe 5% of the time.

These readings were taken with the engine at normal operating temperature, easily 30 minutes after starting. Do you reckon it's worth doing it again when the engine is cold?

It didn't show any fault codes, no.
 
brianp38dse said:
That modulation figure is about as close as you will get to spot on, have a look at the leak off pipes as well, mine is a 97 has done that when hot and found the pipes leaking.
Click to expand...
Cheers Brian..... to be clear, these are the high pressure pipes between the FIP and cylinder head, yes?
 
Is your in tank fuel pump working?
Glow plugs in good condition?
The modulation isn't bad, was it at running temperature when you noted the modulation?
Any fuel leaks on the fip or around the injectors as said will let fuel out and air in.
 
DarthDude said:
Cheers Brian..... to be clear, these are the high pressure pipes between the FIP and cylinder head, yes?
Click to expand...

No, the little rubber ones that leap-frog between each injector. The rubber perishes letting fuel leak back.

Modulation is checked at warm idle (temp guage in middle). 50% +/- 5% is perfect.

Someone mentioned lift-pump. Wammers did a how to in the tech archive which is dead quick and easy.
 
DarthDude said:
Thanks buddy! I'll check for the MAF (never had to before) but I do remember the glowplug light coming on, on the dash even when the engine is warm VERY occasionally. Like maybe 5% of the time.

These readings were taken with the engine at normal operating temperature, easily 30 minutes after starting. Do you reckon it's worth doing it again when the engine is cold?

It didn't show any fault codes, no.
Click to expand...

If hot-start is fitted the glows always come on. If it isn't and they are randomly coming on when hot then maybe the sensor is acting up.
 
If you change the leak off pipes either put heat shrink on the ends or cable tie them on, they will last longer,
i dont know what it like over where you are but here some of the pipe is real crap and dont last six months:(
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

H
P38A 1997 2.5 cranks dont start
Replies
6
Views
1K
Datatek
Datatek
P
Range Rover P38 EKA and BeCM Lockout
Replies
6
Views
3K
Doolinjames
D
R
P38A New here with problems
2 3
Replies
49
Views
4K
Grrrrrr
Grrrrrr
T
hot start kits they work
Replies
14
Views
1K
wammers
wammers
sierrafery
P38 difficult hot start fix(BMW diesel engine)
Replies
3
Views
2K
wammers
wammers
Back
Top