1997 P38 RR, Engine Disabled & EKA doesnt work :( HELP

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totalgamesroom

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Hi Guys,

Im new here so please be gentle with me!!

My problems well where do i start.....

Bought a 1997 Range Rover P38 SE 4.0 worked fine for a few weeks then i got "Engine Disabled" message on dash, Key Fobs have never worked so only opened doors with key, EKA does not work, everything i have seen on these forums have not worked.....

Things i need help with please.
1) how do i know if the EKA is being read by the car properly? IE Beeps flashes etc.

2) is there any way of bypassing the syatem?

3) how do i get my car to start?

Please help... thanks in advance guys!
 
Hmmm, sounds like a host of issues here. I suspect you need diagnostics but someone will probably advise shortly.

Fobs have never worked? That could be burnt out lock motors or possibly the keys are out of synch.

EKA. You can put it in using the key. Cannot remember the procedure off the top of my head. It is probably in RAVE (link in How To section under Wammers EAS thread.)

Sounds like there might be an underlying RF receiver issue here too.
 
totalgamesroom said:
Hi Guys,

Im new here so please be gentle with me!!

My problems well where do i start.....

Bought a 1997 Range Rover P38 SE 4.0 worked fine for a few weeks then i got "Engine Disabled" message on dash, Key Fobs have never worked so only opened doors with key, EKA does not work, everything i have seen on these forums have not worked.....

Things i need help with please.
1) how do i know if the EKA is being read by the car properly? IE Beeps flashes etc.

2) is there any way of bypassing the syatem?

3) how do i get my car to start?

Please help... thanks in advance guys!
Click to expand...

Running a P38 without the FOB working can be fraught with problems. indicator lights normall flash as the EKA is entered.
Could be as simple as low battery voltage, check the battery voltage.
 
Thanks guys,

Brand new battery fitted!


The indicators flash when i turn the key to do the eka but its as if its just locking and unlocking the door, nothing that stands out that its a code being entered,

I have tried and tried the eka code so many times but the message stays the same on the dash "engine disabled" no mention of key lockout etc,

Could this be the door switch faulty?

Also how can i sort out the fobs? im guessing this cant be done until the engine disabled/immobiliser problem has been sorted?

I bought the car with fobs not working!!

Thanks
 
Last edited:
totalgamesroom said:
Thanks guys,

Brand new battery fitted!


The indicators flash when i turn the key to do the eka but its as if its just locking and unlocking the door, nothing that stands out that its a code being entered,

I have tried and tried the eka code so many times but the message stays the same on the dash "engine disabled" no mention of key lockout etc,

Could this be the door switch faulty?

Also how can i sort out the fobs? im guessing this cant be done until the engine disabled/immobiliser problem has been sorted?

I bought the car with fobs not working!!

Thanks
Click to expand...
If the LED's work on the FOB's, they may be OK, check the RF receiver for the FOB's in the offside rear under the plastic that holds the parcel shelf, it may have been disconnected.
A new battery does not mean much these days. you need to check the voltage.
Failed micro switches in the drivers door lock may be the problem but if the indicators flash for lock and unlock it would suggest not, the EKA prceedure is different according to the year of the car, it has to be done correctly for your year of car.
 
Checked rf receiver, was diconnected but i reconnected it and still nothing, voltage is good on battery, i thought i would get some messages from the car to say if the eka code was unsuccessful like the key lockout message or something, im at my wits end now with it!
 
Lock door, then turn key 4 times to lock position, then turn to unlock x times, lock x times, unlock x times then lock x times then unlock once more, (making sure i do it slowly and using key full travel through the lock and returning to the centre every time. following owners manual to the letter.

Is there anyway of testing the door lock actuator?
 
totalgamesroom said:
Checked rf receiver, was diconnected but i reconnected it and still nothing, voltage is good on battery, i thought i would get some messages from the car to say if the eka code was unsuccessful like the key lockout message or something, im at my wits end now with it!
Click to expand...

Is the r/f synced to the car? put key into door lock, turn it to lock whilst pressing lock button on fob. Worked for me. The r/f has been disconnected for a reason, probably picking up spurious signals which will burn out your front door locks. Try leaving the blue connector (aerial) disconnected, you have to stand close to the o/s /r window to use the fob. New latest r/f will cure the problem (£240) or I added a second remote switch which isolates the orange wire to the BECM. Two remotes now but it only cost me £2.99:)
 
Hi, I'm based in Swansea, South Wales, would I get round the fault by fitting a new becm, ecu, keys etc?? (It's from a working rangie that's accident damaged?)
 
totalgamesroom said:
I'm home tomorrow back in the garage to try and sort this damn problem, any ideas?
Click to expand...

Mozz is the man who has a magic touch with thee things, he'll no doubt give you a call or you call him, check your PMs ....he has a knack of being able to talk people through a bunch of tests to see what the problem is...you're in good hands with Mozz...

@mozz: Sorry to hear you had to cancel your trips out...stiff upper lip ol'bean, good to see you still keep an eye on us all....
 
sainty , thanks for the kind comments ,but the keeping an eye out was a bit below the belt mate . but I know you meant well yer barsteward ho ho ho . regards mozz
 
hi mate , none taken !!!!!!!


do you know of any pantomines that are short of a one eyed pirate for the xmas season ?????????????;););););) as I know who would be perfeck fer the job !!!!!!!!!!! regards mozz
 
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