tomcat59alan
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Yup, we are all fine here pal, trying to keep the southerners out. He wasn't talking about the eye below your belt mate
Glad to see your still with us, spk soon
1997 P38 RR, Engine Disabled & EKA doesnt work :( HELP
- Thread starter totalgamesroom
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Yup, we are all fine here pal, trying to keep the southerners out. He wasn't talking about the eye below your belt mate
Glad to see your still with us, spk soon
on the older models you don't turn 4 times left/unlock before inputting EKA, just begin with everything closed and car locked, (first number in EKA clockwise/unlock) believe it changed in 1997. (there could be cars with wrong info in owners manual.)
remember to open door after 2 failed attempts so you don't have to wait for system timeout.
Probably need key sync before being able to start as well
Otherwise the odds are good Mozz will sort you out.
remember to open door after 2 failed attempts so you don't have to wait for system timeout.
Probably need key sync before being able to start as well
Otherwise the odds are good Mozz will sort you out.
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hi mate , none taken !!!!!!!
do you know of any pantomines that are short of a one eyed pirate for the xmas season ?????????????
Long john silver would be a goer. But get ready straight away. It takes time for the stump to heal when you have your leg off.
Datatek
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Changing the BECM will just lead to more pain as you will need diagnostics to sync it to the engine ECU.
I leave mine unattended for long periods and disconnect the battery each time, what i've found are 2 scenarios:
1) Disconnected for a short period: Enter EKA code and immobiliser is switched off via EKA sequence, then I start the car with the key as normal (no button pushes on the fob) key needs to be resynched by switching engine off and then locking doors with the key while pressing fob (as mentioned above)
2) Disconnected for a long period (longest for me was 12 months): Enter EKA code, car will not start via the key directly as above. I always get a message in the message centre 'press remote to start engine' then just press the unlock on the remote and the car starts, and the key is also synched right away
I'm guessing that there is voltage stored in ROM in the BECM that keeps the memory alive for a few weeks, a longer period seems to set it to another state that has a slightly different procedure. It could just be mine that does this though......it's a rangie after all
1) Disconnected for a short period: Enter EKA code and immobiliser is switched off via EKA sequence, then I start the car with the key as normal (no button pushes on the fob) key needs to be resynched by switching engine off and then locking doors with the key while pressing fob (as mentioned above)
2) Disconnected for a long period (longest for me was 12 months): Enter EKA code, car will not start via the key directly as above. I always get a message in the message centre 'press remote to start engine' then just press the unlock on the remote and the car starts, and the key is also synched right away
I'm guessing that there is voltage stored in ROM in the BECM that keeps the memory alive for a few weeks, a longer period seems to set it to another state that has a slightly different procedure. It could just be mine that does this though......it's a rangie after all
totalgamesroom
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I have been offered the becm, Ecu, Door lock, ignition barrel, Glovebox lock and clocks from a donor vehicle (accident damaged), would that need diagnostics to re-sync too??
Datatek
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Yes, you would also need to know if yours and the donor BECM are Hi or Lo line. Changing the BECM may not solve your problem. Changing the clocks will result in the recorded mileage defaulting to the highest figure.
Diagnostics is the way forward.
totalgamesroom
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Had a conversation with Mozz today and thats exactly what he suggests too, have got it booked in for next week with an independent lr guy so fingers crossed it works!
tomcat59alan
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I am also away for long periods and used to disconnect the battery or leave it to go flat. Nothing but trouble !! I use a maintenance charger now and leave the battery connected. It was a cheap Aldi charger (£12.99) and it's been perfect ever since
I am also away for long periods and used to disconnect the battery or leave it to go flat. Nothing but trouble !! I use a maintenance charger now and leave the battery connected. It was a cheap Aldi charger (£12.99) and it's been perfect ever since
Thought about that but it's outside the back of the house and have no power sources there. I did think about getting a decent (windscreen size) solar panel and then wiring through to the battery, AFAIK it should only draw about 0.5 AMP (if someone knows exactly then please shout) and a decent solar can generate that. For the moment I just do the EKA - and I can do it in my sleep now
am looking to replace the RF unit in the back but have you seen the prices now(!) and also the drivers door lock is now not working on the remote (suspect it's burnt out due to said RF unit)Will get them sorted when I hit the UK next month
tomcat59alan
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Thought about that but it's outside the back of the house and have no power sources there. I did think about getting a decent (windscreen size) solar panel and then wiring through to the battery, AFAIK it should only draw about 0.5 AMP (if someone knows exactly then please shout) and a decent solar can generate that. For the moment I just do the EKA - and I can do it in my sleep now
Will get them sorted when I hit the UK next month
Yes a solar panel will work, Datatec uses one and he will be on and tell you more info re. output. I use one on you car in the Canaries, it's only small output but I can disconnect the battery without problems. I fitted a remote operated switch that only connects the r/f to the becm when operated. Cost me £2.99 and has worked perfectly. Only downside is I now have two remote fobs.
See my post Page 16, r/f receiver, last reply 18 July
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brianp38dse
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yep the remote relay on the rf reciver trick works a treat cheep quick and easy, bean working well for 6 months now no probbs
Datatek
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If the BECM goes to sleep correctly, the current draw is 30milliamps.Thought about that but it's outside the back of the house and have no power sources there. I did think about getting a decent (windscreen size) solar panel and then wiring through to the battery, AFAIK it should only draw about 0.5 AMP (if someone knows exactly then please shout) and a decent solar can generate that. For the moment I just do the EKA - and I can do it in my sleep now
Will get them sorted when I hit the UK next month
I have fitted a socket in the boot of mine into which I can plug the 12 watt solar panel with regulator that I use for the caravan, the pannel sits on the rear parcel shelf propped up at an angle. It's only needed if the car is being left for more than 3 weeks since I fitted the 1000CCA 135AH battery.
Cheers for the tips! Was it a pain running the wiring from the boot socket to the battery? I was wondering if I can do a reverse charge via the cig lighter - not sure but it should be possible? Leave the solar on the dash and then put a cig lighter socket on, plug it in and then current 'should' flow to the battery - am no sparky though!
Datatek
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Cig lighter is not live with the ignition off on mine, nor is the standard socket in the boot.
Running the wire is a piece of cake, I used a 6mm cable as I wanted a caravan supply. I ran it in a tube along the top of the chassis rail just glued in place at intervals, then up through an existing grommet into the rear quarter. I used an in line blade fuse at the battery end.
A 3 to 5 watt soalr panel will do the job, remember, unless it's bright sunlight, the panel will not produce it's rated output, 50/60% is nearer the mark.
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mozz smith
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you lot of "auto electricians " make me laugh it would be hilarious to get up one morning and find your nice rangie all melted , then when you ring the insurance underwriter to pay your claim the firm reply would be " sorry sir you failed to notify us of any modifications " hence the invalid claim .... not being sarcastic at your wonderful ideas and shortcuts but just thought of all the implications trying to save a few quid in NOT buying a new r.f. receiver , and even I baulked when I had to fork out for mine !!!!!!! just a thought guys .... regards mozz
tomcat59alan
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For what the insurance want to pay out it may not be worth while claiming. When I got T boned many years ago (not my fault) they offered me a fifth of what it was worth. Eventually after an engineers report they paid out. When I asked to buy the wreck back they wanted £100 more than they offered.
I know where you're coming from but charging 20% of the vehicles value for an RF receiver is taking the **** just a bit. I would very much doubt whether the part costs more than a dollar or two to make - and it should have been retrofitted as a recall to fix the original faulty ones (but that's another story)
And with the new RF unit for the amount of time I leave a car it will still die - the battery needs topping up somehow. I have left my Jeep for 11 weeks and just turned the key, no way I could do that with the Rangie even with a new RF unit and high cap battery. A garage and maintenance charger would be my ideal solution (but I don't have either)
Datatek
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You sure that the insurance have to be informed of wiring for the tow hitch? I think not.
I'm more than confident thet my wiring is at least as good as the original wiring if not much better, no way will it cause the car to melt although my experience of some of the P38 loom failures certanly could.
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