Freelander 1 [SOLVED] TD4 - Crank shaft end float - how do I get rid of it?

Hi Guys,
Stupid question... but.
My TD4 has quite a bit of end float (horizontal) - on the crank shaft.
Is this a full "Crank" out job and re-shelling of the big ends etc.
or.. is there something simple I'm missing...
for example.. if some idiot had fitted the crankshaft pulley incorrectly, would this cause end float.

The engine is out at the moment (for the second time) - and I could do with getting this sorted before refitting the lump.
the end float is visually excessive - i'm estimating 0.5mm to 0.75mm - I can move the crank by hand!!!

Cheers.
Wayne,

 

Needs new thrust washers, these are fitted each side of one of the main bearing journals , someone will know which one, sump off and have a look, you might be able to change them with just removing the one main cap. Reason for excess wear, someone has started it a lot with their foot on the clutch

 

May as well check the big ends while you have it in bits...... may as well check the little ends while you do that......may as well replace the piston rings and re-hone while you have them out......may as well........

Fuk that. Who knows what else might be wrong with it. Chuck it in the bin and get another.

 

My my aren't we grumpy!

 

Realistic.

No point sinking money into a car that going on his previous posts is a raft that has been standing unused for years. Personally I would have sacked it all off and bought another one, but if he wants to do up this car, which he does for sentimental reasons apparently, then IMO the best bet would be to find a known good engine and shove that in.
In my experience, there is little point in opening an engine and doing piece-meal repairs. Do it all or do nothing, no half measures unless you are just patching it up to sell it on. If its a keeper, spend the money and do it right first time. But an old Freelander? I have no idea what the rebuild costs of a TD4 engine would be, but would hazard a guess that you can buy a running one with blown transmission for less than the cost of rebuilding.

 

It's not the crank pulley worn it? They are rubber dampered. Similar idea to a dual mass flywheel. It could be the issue?

 

I do agree... but.... It is a keeper.... I know that there shouldn't be any sentiment in cars.... but this one, is quite sentimental.
I'm not scared of doing the job personally, and today, I've stripped it down.
Found a fantastic clean unworn crankshaft. - but No4. thrust shell has worn down on one edge.
Absolutely NO "Ovality" to the cylinder bores and probably only showing 65k (ish) of mileage on the bores. so no re-bore required. - according to the engine machine shop in Nottingham.
Just a de-glaze required if anything (and std size new rings)
I've ordered a full set of shells with thrust bearings for shell No.4.
This car has been one hell of a learning curve, one that I am really enjoying.
I am ploughing money into it - some would say ploughing good into bad.... but I know what I will end up with in the end.
An Engine I know inside and out
A gearbox I have fully stripped, resealed rebuilt and got ready to refit
an IRD with new cooler and rebuild kit
New front suspension arms, driveshafts, drop links, ARB and ARB Bushes and drop links
new VCU - with working existing VCU kept "just in case"

Fitting new shells is relatively easy to be honest - especially with the engine upside down on the deck.
I've started, so I will finish - as the saying goes.
but.... if someone has one going extremely cheap with a blown tranny or a written off 4rse end... get in touch.

 

Ed... would that cause crankshaft end float though??

 

Hi Dave,
I take onboard all of your comments and I'm looking to two two things.
1) Rebuild the engine with the minimal amount of items possible
2) Source a TD4 Write-Off or a TD4 with a knackered Tranny.
If i source a knackered AUTO TD4, surely the level of endfloat SHOULD be much lower than that of a manual.
my question would be...
Would a bare engine from a TD4 AUTO happily marry up to the Dual Mass Flywheel and replace a Manual Engine.
I suspect so.. but I don't know if the crankshaft (flywheel end) is different, nor do I know if the Kickdown mechanism on an Auto would interfere with a Manual application...

 

Engine the same auto or manual, one has a flywheel , one has a flex plate, all interchangeable.

 

Am I correct to assume (yes mother of all f*** ups) that an Auto connected engine would suffer less crankshaft thrust bearing damage due to the lack of pressure being applied during gear changes???
e.g. - press clutch pedal down.... bearing pushes entire clutch assembly and crankshaft towards the off side of the car.... (usual suspect for clutches not working properly on high mileage hippos) whereas - the auto doesn't apply this horizontal force.

 

Quite correct

 

so.. if i find a freebie with a goosed auto box - i'm on for a winner??
Fantastic....

 

Sorted.....
New engine gone in.... along with a new (good second hand) Gear Box.
Also to add..
if the bores are not oval, and compression is high, the 4th Crankshaft Bearing "CAN" be replaced in situ, although you would be better replacing the whole set of shells.