Project N/A Checklist

no i was advised by the local landy centre to put normal mineral oil in and change it after 500 miles. The hill is about 1/2 a mile long and steady not too steep but that was my test. Cos i always go up it so i could judge the difference. It is a lot better though, and was mre than capable Sunday when i took it to an off road day. was also told by the local landy centre that its the quietest 110 diesel they have heard in a long time so that made me feel quite good. I must say it does sound quite good though. And your right its not like my 3 litre jag i normally drive. Im looking forward to going Billing now thats why i wanted to do it as last year i left it behind and went in my mates 110 and realy missed takeing it on the coarse. are you going billing Pos

Good to hear!

My local specialist sold me some running in oil and told me that it is basically just pure oil which should allow the rings to "bed" into the cylinder walls a bit more directly as opposed to being extremely lubricated and polished by all the ****ty additives that most modern engine oils have in them. It's still got to come out after 500 miles and there will be a new filter to go on. I think that I might splash out and buy myself some expensive high performance engine oil this time round, and that should do me for another 6 months or so.

As for Billing, I would like to have gone and camped out the weekend, but as usual sods law has worked its magic. I'm off to Nerja in Spain with the family and family friends on the 19th (absolute bloody typical sods law, bang in the middle of the dates ) but I'm going to try and attend as many different land rover events as possible across the country if I get the chance!

Tong Fest is a good camping weekend up here in West Yorkshire if you're interested. I don't know about the dates but the pay and play facility is fantastic and there were a few interesting demonstrations and plenty of stands last year. They've got a huge beer tent too!

-Pos

Ok what is running in oil????

Pretty much pure oil without all the synthetic additives that typical diesel engine oils have in them. Ambesta Running In Oil - Morris Lubricants - UK It reduces the chance of your cylinders glazing whilst the piston rings bed in.

pos said:

Pretty much pure oil without all the synthetic additives that typical diesel engine oils have in them. Ambesta Running In Oil - Morris Lubricants - UK It reduces the chance of your cylinders glazing whilst the piston rings bed in.

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Snake oil par excellence!

Just fill her up with ordinary mineral oil, and drive carefully for 1,000 miles or so, no labouring and middle revving, and she'll be right as rain.

CharlesY

back again landyzone. i still seem to be getting some oil chuffing out of the oil filler cant understand why. mNow i have racked my brain re every part of the rebuild and the only part i am uncertain about is the placement of the rings. Now the workshop manual said not to place any of the ring gaps on the thrust side of the bore but evenly space the joints around the piston. Now does that mean on all that half of the piston or just in the 3 oclock possition,as i placed the oil ring at 12 oclock and the other 2 at 9 oclock and 6 oclock facing the engine. This is the only thing i can think of.

Hello,

I did get a little bit of oil coming out of the filler cap following my rebuild, but what I've done since is wipe and clean the rubber stopper on the cap really thoroughly to ensure that it is almost soft rubber against the inside if the rocker cover oil filler hole. I also gave the hole walls a very light sand to kind of score them up a little bit. The cap now fits really tight and it hasn't leaked a drop of oil sinse!

Worth a try.
-Pos

cheers pos ill give it a go. Oh and i went out to put a fuel tank protector on yesterday and soon as i got underneith found the tanks leaking now and just lost a tank on theith bay by seconds. still new one is only about £80 so not too bad ay thats my job next week.

There's a topic on here that I started about my fuel tank a couple of months ago too. I found the exact same problem when going to change my gearbox oil. Put a new tank in, problem solved! It's a total bugger to do because it has been designed so awkwardly.

There are only three nuts and three bolts that hold the tank in place, as well as the lip on the tank sitting on the chassis rail and an awkward bracket (with 2 or three nuts and bolts its self). What you will need to do is remove the two nuts and bolts from the filler pipe side of the tank (easy peasy), and the whole support bracket at the front end (drivers) end of the tank. That's the hardest bit because the two or three nuts and bolts which hold that bracket to the chassis are really fiddly awkward ****s to get at. Patience is the only option!

There's no need to take the seat box up or anything daft like that, just lift the drivers seat and seat panel up, disconnect the fuel level float mechanism and wiring (make not of which wire came off where), the two fuel lines (one main outlet, one return) and then bray the tank down with a big hammer!

To put the new tank in, try and get the filler cap end up and twisted onto the chassis first, then flatten it out and just jack the bugger up until it goes. I lifted my 90 about a foot off the ground jacking the tank up, so be careful!

-Pos

ah forgot its a 90 you got. Its a lot easier on a 110 like ive got. You just have to drop the anti roll bar out of the way and undo the 4 nuts and bolts and pipe work and suposedly it come down or so i have been told so im hoping its that easy.

denis the menace said:

back again landyzone. i still seem to be getting some oil chuffing out of the oil filler cant understand why. mNow i have racked my brain re every part of the rebuild and the only part i am uncertain about is the placement of the rings. Now the workshop manual said not to place any of the ring gaps on the thrust side of the bore but evenly space the joints around the piston. Now does that mean on all that half of the piston or just in the 3 oclock possition,as i placed the oil ring at 12 oclock and the other 2 at 9 oclock and 6 oclock facing the engine. This is the only thing i can think of.

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THRUST SIDE ..... have you worked out which SIDE of the bores and pistons that is?

If you are standing in front of the engine looking back, the manifolds are on one side, and the injection pump is on the other.

Looking back, the injection pump is on YOUR left side.

Because the engine turns clockwise as you look at it from the front, the moment a piston starts to go DOWN, its conrod BIG END swings over to your right. This immediately makes the piston try to move sideways to the other side, which is the THRUST SIDE, the same side in these engines as the injection pump happens to be on.

CharlesY

not saying your wrong charlsey but according to the workshop manual its the other way round it says looking from the back its on the left hand side just wanted to know if you stagger the gaps all round the piston or just on one half