Freelander 1 IRD pinion gears

You may remember some time ago I bought some chassis ears in order to try to locate my Freelander 1 v6’s whine by listening to different places underneath. Happens at 25mph+ and sounds different on engine breaking, as opposed to acceleration or cruising. Noise is proportional to speed, and not the engine. Not completely ruled out the auto, but when removing the props/vcu the whine disappears. So I thought it would be the pinion gear at fault. Bearing in mind this all started 3.5 years ago when a main stealer changed me auto gearbox. Since then it’s done about 15,000miles.

A while ago I took orf me pinion gear to swap it wiff another I got second hand. Turns out mine was in better nick than the second hand one, as it felt stiff and the bearing was worn, but not failed.

When peeping into the ird pinion connection hole it looks as if some of the metal edges int been cut properly, or is this just the finish you get when they’re cast? Also have the pinion gear teeth worm perhaps causing the whine? The second had pinion had a similar teeth finish.

fixx

And here’s me pinion gear. Note the nice picturesque background fer the tratter boys.

just cast finishing,hard to see teeth but good should have nice shiny surface worn will have scratch/score lines,pinions arent interchable,come with bevel gears as set ,the scribed numbers are used to keep matched,and single scribed number is used in setting pinion hieght ,top picture lh gear looks poor but could just be photo

it is more important to have nice uniform wear area across all the teeth.

Thanks

This is the best pic I have of the LHS gear. From what I remember it was smooth when I felt the surfaces inside. The whine is a bit like that of a metal lathe running in the background in a factory. Will try to record it.

It’s one of those annoying things. Gave up wiff it a while ago, but got thinking after seeing the write up in lro about swapping the ird. Got me thinking that did… I assume it could be a bearing inside the ird. Can you take orf the RHS of the ird to pull out the innards, to replace bearings? Or will it be a unit orf and strip job?

It’s his birthday tomorrow. 10 years since he was built.

i would say bevel gear not good cotact marks

That would confirm my suspicions that the noise started due to the auto gearbox change, as they took out the pinion gear to remove the engine/auto/ird in one piece. They didn’t put enough oil in the ird afterwards.

Is this something I will need to get fixed, or leave it until it breaks? Found a cheap v6 ird on ebay to have a practice wiff if I need to.

run with prop off ,yes low oil would be good call gear looks like its been warmer than normal

jamesmartin said:

i would say bevel gear not good cotact marks

Click to expand...

agreed - certainly not over the majority of the tooth, as yu wud expect.

Thanks. I would prefer to keep me 4x4 ability for orf road use. Is there anything that could be done to fix it whilst still fitted to my hippo, or is it an ird removal and either refit another or repair thisun?

If it keeps whining wiffout failing then I can sort of put up wiff it for a bit longer.

Found this on ebay to take apart as a practice: LANDROVER FREELANDER 2.5 v6 TRANSFER BOX IRD PROPSHAFT | eBay UK

chances are - it will carry on for years - just noisy.
I would put it into the category of "will do it when I have some spare cash" type jobs .

when it does go tho - it may well be messy.

lucky find maybe,why not fit it then look at yours i believe someone does new bevel gears .though not used them myself,hardest bit on stripping was removing heat exchanger looked like badly opened paint tin by the time i got it out,was there no shim between pinion and housing

Ashcroft dont seem to differentiate between engines - Ashcroft Transmissions - IRD

There was a shim between the pinion and housing. A thin nylon plastic like thing, that you can just distinguish between it and the pinion in me first pic. IRD for the v6 should be different I think.

Whether it gets fixed is down to chances of failing… Wiff it being a v6 it int worth much. My mindset is to keep it going until something major fails. Then it would either be a replacement Freelander 1 td4 auto or Freelander 2 diesel auto if their prices dropped to a more reasonable value. Can afford to fix it, but would begrudge £1k for a recon ird + fitting costs, which seems to be about the same prices everywhere. Suppose I could have a go myself. Managed the cam belts wiff a bit of ****ing about.

1k int far orf half the value of the car, not that I would sell it. Would rather put the money towards me house purchase. It’s in good running order, wiff nearly 28k miles on the clock. Built 10 years ago tomorrow. But the additional cost of buying a replacement FL1 diesel would benefit from reduced running costs. Mines probably worth more in bits, as per many who px them and sell the parts on ebay. If something like hgf or an auto failure were to happen, he’d be replaced as repair int worth it. Hence why this whine has been left due to not knowing when something else will go wrong.

yu are correct..........
"SUITS ALL FREELANDER MK1 1997-2006 PETROL AND DIESEL
AND TD4. WILL NOT FIT V6 MODELS."

however...... LANDROVER FREELANDER 2.5 v6 TRANSFER BOX IRD PROPSHAFT | eBay UK

Peeps seem to charge £200 extra for fitting ird's to a v6, as opposed to the others. If it's correct that it's a bit more of a sod to do, and the auto oil may **** out at the same time, then I can sort of understand this + the more expensive oil costs.

Got me eye on that ebay one. Me thinks the price will shoot up at the last minute.

you dont loose oil out of auto,well above level,how much do they charge

Have seen prices from £400 to £500 for the v6. this is about £200 more than a 4 cylinder. Have to admit I didn't think the auto oil would come out, when the ird was removed, but as I've never done one I just followed what I saw on the web. Access being tighter and the suspension bar thing below the pinion needs to come off I think. The only difference I think.

just for changing ird ,sub frame is 6 x bolt + 2 x nuts on roll bar,drive shafts can be stubborn

Thanks. Bin watching that ird on ebay. £176 now. They seem to be fighting over it. Not many v6's about. Thinking about it logically, after the cost of the ird, oil, coolant and a good 20 hours for me to change it, I'd be betterer orf wiff a recon unit. Everything inside would have been checked out, and shims etc setup properly. Failing that getting mine removed and recon'd would be another way forward. Mines only done 28k miles. Would be a bugger to fit another only to find it needs to come out again. Does anyone know what the turn around time would be to get my ird recon'd?

Ere Hippo.
Have yu tried contacting Austen?
Remember the VCU test thread?

Not sure if he does them, but it has to be worth a PM, Shirley?