IRD REMOVAL AND TURBO WORRIES

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MollyNomad

MollyNomad

Well-Known Member
Posts
505
Location
Scotland
Hello Folks.

Following my post regards IRD bearing replacement I have finally go the unit out

1. Without killing myself

2. Without damaging IRD.

Have a replacement bearing kit with Timken items which I was quite pleased to get.

Anyhoo last night whilst under the car looking up into the hole where the IRD resides I was met with a worrying site. My turbo is covered in oil.. obviously the ‘black stuff’. It’s ‘honking’ and I’m pretty sure it wasn’t that bad a week or so ago.

So looking for advice as to what to do. My main concern is a ‘runaway’ which, whilst being spectacular isn’t really ‘my cup of tea!’

I’m assuming that the turbo seals have failed hence the oil. The car ran okay when I last drove it (a couple of weeks back) no smoke etc. only noticed a sound, (other than grumbling bearing from IRD) a funny ‘rattle’ usually on mild acceleration which disappears when not under load.. If I am honest it sounds like a Speedo ‘drive’ that you used to get on older cars.. obviously not that here..

Anyhoo any advice would be good. Would rather have ago at sorting this issue if it can be sorted with the IRD Out/off other than a revisit/IRD removal again. Not wanting to risk driving/running the car until this is fixed. Noted that when I removed the induction pipe work at the front of the engine that some oil dropped onto the floor a short wil later leaving a puddle the size of 6-8 50p pieces in the floor.

TIA…
 
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Does oil comes from the turbo ? The boost pipe that get to the turbo can be broken.

Turbo hoses use to have some oil in them, same for the intercooler that accumulate a lot of oil.

Not very common to have a broken turbo on the FL1 TD4
 
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I’m assuming it is but until get closer to it and start inspecting in more detail it could be coming from elsewhere.. back to work tomorrow so it will have to wait for now..

Thanks for the reply 👍🏻👍🏻
 
Have you checked the crankcase breather? I converted mine to the 'non filter' modified type but found it let more oil into the intercooler system so reverted back to the serviceable paper filter type. As said best remove the intercooler & all associated pipe work & clean it all out first (including 'servicing' the breather) before worrying about the turbo. The metal pipe that runs around the back of the engine is the hardest part to clean because it's a pain to remove it, best of luck.
 
Now I may be Fick, but how would oil on the outside of a turbo lead to run away?

Osmosis?

I think it more likely to stop the engine - when the last of the oil has been fired at the turbo and all the spinny round bits in the engine cease to be able to spin round.
 
GrumpyGel said:
Now I may be Fick, but how would oil on the outside of a turbo lead to run away?

Osmosis?

I think it more likely to stop the engine - when the last of the oil has been fired at the turbo and all the spinny round bits in the engine cease to be able to spin round.
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Haha I get your concern… but oil outside or inside I don’t want a runaway…or a seized turbo..
 
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Andy Warren said:
Have you checked the crankcase breather? I converted mine to the 'non filter' modified type but found it let more oil into the intercooler system so reverted back to the serviceable paper filter type. As said best remove the intercooler & all associated pipe work & clean it all out first (including 'servicing' the breather) before worrying about the turbo. The metal pipe that runs around the back of the engine is the hardest part to clean because it's a pain to remove it, best of luck.
Click to expand...
On my way to work (2.25hr bus journey) I was mulling over this issue. I changed back to the ‘old style’ filter just before the MOT in October(for the same reasons you have) so will be stripping the system down for a good cleaning. Always suspected the intercooler as a possible culprit for ‘storing’ oil so removing it is a good call (depending on how many bolts I snap in the process) along with all the pipe and hose work.. I look forwards to having an ‘oil Bath’ during the process.
 
GrumpyGel said:
Now I may be Fick, but how would oil on the outside of a turbo lead to run away?

Osmosis?

I think it more likely to stop the engine - when the last of the oil has been fired at the turbo and all the spinny round bits in the engine cease to be able to spin round.
Click to expand...
Na you 'ain't fick, oil/black gunge (in the intercooler system) can leak from the hose/duct that goes to the maf sensor which in turn connects to the turbo, the ribbed seal goes like plastic after a while & from the metal pipe that runs around the back of the engine right above the turbo/IRD. After deleting the egr on mine it leaked out of the new silicone hose that went onto the 'blank egr' & dripped onto the g/box so I reverted to the original rubber type (must admit I don't like silicone hoses for oil related stuff they seem to sweat oil & always feel slimey , ok for coolant),all the best.
 
MollyNomad said:
On my way to work (2.25hr bus journey) I was mulling over this issue. I changed back to the ‘old style’ filter just before the MOT in October(for the same reasons you have) so will be stripping the system down for a good cleaning. Always suspected the intercooler as a possible culprit for ‘storing’ oil so removing it is a good call (depending on how many bolts I snap in the process) along with all the pipe and hose work.. I look forwards to having an ‘oil Bath’ during the process.
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Bumper off, wheel arch liner self tapped screws can be a pain, had to drill the heads of mine very carefully as not to get them too hot & melt the thin liner then just the bolts that hold the bumper on. If you haven't cleaned the manifold (& blanked the egr) I think you'll keep getting more oily stuff in the system, pics of crap that came out of mine when I first got it ! So worth doing.
 

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If I get it right, you are concerned with a bad turbo needing another ird removal to fix. Worry not then, the turbo can be removed with the ird on. I did it twice.
 
Andy Warren said:
Bumper off, wheel arch liner self tapped screws can be a pain, had to drill the heads of mine very carefully as not to get them too hot & melt the thin liner then just the bolts that hold the bumper on. If you haven't cleaned the manifold (& blanked the egr) I think you'll keep getting more oily stuff in the system, pics of crap that came out of mine when I first got it ! So worth doing.
Click to expand...
I usually cut a slot in the bumper screws with a cutting disk and unscrew them with a flat blade screwdriver.
 
While the IRD is out, it's fairly easy to take the turbo off & inspect it. Certainly easier than with IRD in place.

Alternatively the qick check, undo the rubber intake to the turbo, grab the turbine with fingers and see if there's play in the bearings. If there is play, then either the seals & bearing have failed, or they will soon !!
 
pwood999 said:
While the IRD is out, it's fairly easy to take the turbo off & inspect it. Certainly easier than with IRD in place.

Alternatively the qick check, undo the rubber intake to the turbo, grab the turbine with fingers and see if there's play in the bearings. If there is play, then either the seals & bearing have failed, or they will soon !!
Click to expand...
Hi, you will always get play when you do that type of static test. I thought the same so took my FL1 turbo to Turbo Technics for 'reconditioning' (because of that play) but when they inspected it they said the fact the impeller hadn't been touching the sides & the amount of play it had was normal, as the oil fed to it when running takes it up (the play). If the impeller is touching it's housing it's a sure way of knowing the turbos had it:). Having said all that of course the seal(s) could still have failed. I still went ahead & had it reconditioned due to the fact it had done about 170,000 & whilst it was out..... all the best.
 
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