Hard clutch pedal 130 Td5

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Ohlins

Ohlins

Member
Posts
68
Location
S.W.French Pyrénées
My buddy was complaining,over the last week,of finding difficulty in selecting 1st gear and for going on into the other gears.

On his way home from my house he got about 5kms when he reported the clutch pedal having become solid.

There's fluid in the reservoir although the adjustment bar in the master cylinder seems to be almost at the max .....the piston bar as such is not out of the master cylinder..its just that the pedal has gone solid now.

There is an electronic plug on the M/C ...so next questions would be

1. If this plug is left off,can eg.a 300Tdi M/C fit??

2. If so will the ECU carry on as normal?

I'm just anticipating an electronic one being more expensive...and I hope I'm not duty bound to use it lol

There's fluid in the gearbox.....there has been a new slave cylinder installed about a year ago along with a new clutch. It's a model year 1999 with 199000kms

Any of the inmates here have any experience with this sort of problem??

I have posted on other forums to get try and get a quick reply as he uses the 130 as a tool for his work..


Thanks as normal...
:)
 
Basic troubleshooting: loosen the bleed screw from slave cylinder and see what happens:
1. if the pedal goes down then the problem it's with something connected to the clutch release lever which is blocking it.....u have to dissasemble it to see
2. if not its's from the hydraulic system......happened to me once, a small piece of rubber which went off inside the master cylinder clogged the hydraulic feed pipe(quite uncommon)......or the piston could be blocked
 
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Thanks for the replies....of course knowing my luck and the fact that the problem Sierrafery describes is quite uncommon...it's just about to happen again...to me...

:)
 
Ok...gotcha?.....
.....the rod has travelled through fork,the rod can't return therefore the slave cylinder is at its max all the time?..kind of??

Am I almost there with this?

:)
 
A HA!!!!!!!!

Thanks to all inmates.....

As stated I had this posted in other forums and some there would say the clutch fork may be cast iron......this sound about right with a 1999 early Td5?...mmmmm....the plot thickens..

If normal mild steel I'll break the news to my buddy who'll be none too pleased considering he had a new clutch put in about a year ago...

Oh well....this'll be my first foray into changing a Td5 clutch .....expect more questions soon :)


:)
 
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Ohlins said:
A HA!!!!!!!!

Thanks to all inmates.....

I'll break the news to my buddy who'll be none to pleased considering he had a new clutch put in about a year ago...

Oh well....this'll be my first foray into changing a Td5 clutch .....expect more questions soon :)


:)
Click to expand...

get him to pull the slave cylinder off and have a ganders.;)
 
I have the same problem :mad:

Clutch was changed before my ownership last year and I suspect that the tight bastides just changed the plate!! Will be doing it this weekend!

Keep you posted ;)
 
mmmmmm...ok inmates......

...had a wee peep at the slave...I opened the bleed nipple to find that the pedal will go to the floor. So I take it that the hydraulics are indeed up to speed.

However...the pedal will now travel to the floor albeit somewhat harder.

It will not go into gear though......engine turns as normal with no grumbling or whining noises....I'll have to call my buddy today and appraise him...

Gearbox out...if only to have a look??...

I can't think what else it would be..

:)
 
I believe (Sean?) that yu dont need to remove the box. Get some long bolts or studding and slide the box back. Apparently yu can do that enough to check/change the clutch. I have never done it though. Others can advise better.
 
Ok...(not Sean)lol

I could try that and have a peep inside...

I'll see what my buddy thinks about whilst separated whether or not he would do a clutch change..

Can't think of much more as I think all the usual suspect have been eliminated....

(Just trying to avoid any great amount of work..:) )
 
Squeeze me, but have actually done what the peeps above have recomended? Such as removing the slave cylinder and looking at the release arm? It should be obvious if the pivot pin has worn thru the release arm.
 
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