Clutch Pedal Issue?

Hi All,

I have a Defender 2.4tdci(2008) and heading out yesterday went to engage gear the clutch pedal stayed down. Managed to lift it up with end of foot and it then worked as normal. Same thing happened on way home, but this time lifting pedal with foot had no effect, checked fluid reservoi, which was full. Recovery to home and tried clutch pedal on drive, no resistance and pedal stays down, there was a drop in reservoir fluid level, but on refilling was about 20ml? No obvious leaks anywhere under Landy.

After searching forums, think it‘s master cylinder under bonnet as there’s no pressure on pedal and presuming MS piston not got a seal to pressure fluid and engage clutch. Is this the likely culprit and if yes, what parts do I need in addition to Master Cylinder e.g. gaskets, nuts, etc.?

Thanks in advance

Jonah

No replies at all? Usually there would at least suggestions of best parts to buy or to tell me I've misdiagnosed the problem?
Come on Landyzone members, don't leave me wondering what I've done wrong to you all.

I'd suggest the Search Forums facility, should be your first port of call.

For example.


I know it's kinda different, but it's still kinda the same.

Sounds like the master cylinder but your transit engine is a bit new for me so I don't know if there are any differences between it and the tdi variants I am used to. Again on the tdi's the cylinders are cheap enough and easy enough to replace first port of call would just be to replace master and slave (should be done as a pair) and maybe the flexi if showing signs of needing it, but I don't know how easy a job that is on a tdci and what part prices are like.

dag019 said:

Sounds like the master cylinder but your transit engine is a bit new for me so I don't know if there are any differences between it and the tdi variants I am used to. Again on the tdi's the cylinders are cheap enough and easy enough to replace first port of call would just be to replace master and slave (should be done as a pair) and maybe the flexi if showing signs of needing it, but I don't know how easy a job that is on a tdci and what part prices are like.

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Thanks

Propman said:

I'd suggest the Search Forums facility, should be your first port of call.

For example.

clutch issues

Hello all, clutch pedal stopped working the other day (94' 300tdi 90 pickup) had about 2" travel on clutch pedal couldnt change gear. Checked fluid level and was empty, topped up but no visible leaks. Tried bleeding but nothing coming out and fluid level steady, but clutch now working as it...

www.landyzone.co.uk

I know it's kinda different, but it's still kinda the same.

Click to expand...

Thanks for info, have trawled this and other sites, but will give it another search.

dag019 said:

Sounds like the master cylinder but your transit engine is a bit new for me so I don't know if there are any differences between it and the tdi variants I am used to. Again on the tdi's the cylinders are cheap enough and easy enough to replace first port of call would just be to replace master and slave (should be done as a pair) and maybe the flexi if showing signs of needing it, but I don't know how easy a job that is on a tdci and what part prices are like.

Click to expand...

Thanks for response and info. The Master Cylinder is same(£15 ish), but my understanding is the Slave Cylinder is in bell housing on tdci so would almost certainly mean gearbox out to change. Is it vital to change both master and slave, appreciate the new master would then put extra pressure on worn slave and seals, but.......? Searches suggest, if gearbox out, worth changing clutch, and associate parts.

On further investigation, master cylinder is a definite gear box out job.

When this happened to my TD5 it was the slave cylinder needed changing.

However I would try a master cylinder first because if the slave cylinder has failed on a tdci you'll need to remove the gearbox to change it.

lightning said:

When this happened to my TD5 it was the slave cylinder needed changing.

However I would try a master cylinder first because if the slave cylinder has failed on a tdci you'll need to remove the gearbox to change it.

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Spooky, just edited my reply to @dag019 at same time. Thanks for confirmation. Fingers crossed master cylinder change works, bits on order from Island4x4.

jonah said:

Spooky, just edited my reply to @dag019 at same time. Thanks for confirmation. Fingers crossed master cylinder change works, bits on order from Island4x4.

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As @lightning says. Of the slave is gearbox out job. Just replace the master and see if that cures it. Just be aware that the slave may fail shortly after and need replacing anyway even if a new master solves the issue.
And yes while gearbox is out Definitly replace the clutch even if it looks fine. Possibly missed the boat if you have ordered but make sure you get a good brand. I personally like trw/Lucas but I would avoid anything that is not oem rated. Certainly would be putting in straight bearmach or britpart unless stated as oem.

While the gearbox is out l would recommend you also fit the Ashcroft driveshaft modification which prevents failure of the splined transfer shaft and loss of drive.

So, managed to change Master Cylinde and get clutch pedal back In place. Ready to bleed clutch system, the bleed nipple didn’t have cover protector, not an issue, but how the chuff do you turn the bleed valve, just no space. After lots of different failed Attempts, invested in some stubby spanner’s and the 13mm fitted perfectly, Yeah. Things looked good, press pedal, top up master cylinder reservoir, no more bubbles in bleed line, sorted. Then…….. Dot 4 coming out of bell housing, Noooooooo.

So based on above comments and searching, need to change slave cylinder, which means best to change clutch at same time. Asked garage to quote (Ind Landrover Specialist) and they said need to change dual mass flywheel as well. Is this correct, or will changing clutch and concentric slave cylinder resolve my issues? For reference quoted +£1300 to fit Clutch kit, slave cylinder and flywheel. Don’t have space or kit to tackle this one, any advice, gratefully received.

How many miles has it done? The DMF should be good for 100,000

The Landy’s at 156K, got it +8yrs ago at 134k from a wildlife trust organisation and it had been serviced at their local garage. Unfortunately garage had closed and couldn’t get any info on servicing, apart from a stamped book up to the 130k.

Probably due a full clutch kit including DMF.
You'll never need to do it again.

Tdci does not use the dual mass flywheel.

Wimblowdriver said:

Tdci does not use the dual mass flywheel.

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Looking at LRWorkshop.com diagram seems to give 2 alternatives LR033026 BA chassis numbers to 2011, which covers my 2008 Landy, but also has LR077797 CA chassis (2.2 & 2.4tdci Puma). Question is, does the later one fit mine and is a better upgrade or do I stick with earlier one, which is cheaper?

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Should I replace the CSC adaptor and control valve as well?

Also, on enquiring with a couple of garages, they seem to suggest there's a clutch shortage at the moment??? Backed up by clickmechanic.com, wanted to get a base price for clutch job for comparison, they would quote for clutch & C slave cylinder @£628(4-5 hours labour), but couldn't quote for flywheel as well, "due to being OOS at their suppliers???"

Clutch part shortage??? Ebay, John Craddock and Island4x4 all look to have everything in stock.

Have a look at this website, at their clutch kits. LOF have a good reputation by users on this site, I have used their brake pads but not needed a clutch yet. They also do a modified output shaft which @lightning mentions.

A bargain ---

Wimblowdriver said:

LR033026 Genuine Landrover Flywheel | eBay

LR033026 Genuine Land Rover Flywheel for TD4. Has surface rust on it as seen from the photos. Part is new and unused.

www.ebay.co.uk

A bargain ---

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Saw this, is the surface rust an issue?