First Pay & Play day - advice?
- Thread starter MikeV8SE
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khaos
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Hi Khaos, thanks for the info. Heading to Aldermaston which is down Hampshire/Surrey way, so probably not somewhere you've ventured to! But good advice all the same, so thanks
Rob - cheers for the PM, i'll get in touch!
No problem, if you want anything else feel free to pm me and I might know.I've never been there, it's quite a way. Furthest I've been is shrewsbury.
Oh another thing is if you make a mistake just own up, no one will have anything else to say but if you BS you'll get stick.
At frickley last time there was a series that "suddenly stopped working". I went to take a look because they were clueless. I don't claim to be a mechanical expert but I'm not bad and not bad at solving problems. I couldn't start it at all but as far as I could see, there was nothing wrong with it. I was really stumped. Then an old guy, really knowledgeable, came over to help. He got it to turn over for about 3 seconds then it backfired from the exhaust and blew flames out of the intake at the same time. He said to him,
"have you messed with anything electrical?".
"Nooooo" replied the driver.
We carried on for a while longer and then the old guy took off the spark leads an swapped them around. The engine was fine.
"So you swapped the leads round"
"Nooo"
"Well they don't do it to themselves, just admit it"
"Don't know how that happened" replied the owner.
He annoyed a lot of people who were trying to help him that day. We know for a fact he had swapped the leads round just before it broke but he wouldn't admit it. It was an honest mistake but he could have said at the start and we would have fixed it in 10 seconds.
Long story but the moral is don't annoy the people who you'll need at some point or they won't be there when you need them.
landy1uk
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That's like our club if you get stuck or broke down, the usual abit of pee taking cameras come out then we help out,
Lucky in our club as a few of the guys a mecanicks and recovery guys one guy Drives a V8 disco s1 broke something on the drivers front wheel got to the car park to repair it like a mini workshop with the spares and tools fixed it there and then.
Lucky in our club as a few of the guys a mecanicks and recovery guys one guy Drives a V8 disco s1 broke something on the drivers front wheel got to the car park to repair it like a mini workshop with the spares and tools fixed it there and then.
OK, well I’ve bought a pair of JATE rings for the front of my RRC to use as recovery points, as I know the standard towing eye is next to useless if you get stuck. The rear is taken care of by the towbar. Now, these are usually fitted to the two front cross members, using the holes already there that currently hold the front valence on to the car.
However, I really don’t like the look of Range Rover Classics without the front valence in place, and given I am not ‘seriously’ offroading the car, ideally I would like to keep this fitted to the vehicle. Is it possible to mount the JATE rings anywhere else so that A) they are strong enough to be used as intended and B) can be used with the front bumper & valence fitted to the vehicle?
I don’t mind cutting a small hole in the front valence to allow each JATE ring to poke through, but just not sure if this is possible – anyone managed it before? Photo’s would be perfect if you’ve got them!
However, I really don’t like the look of Range Rover Classics without the front valence in place, and given I am not ‘seriously’ offroading the car, ideally I would like to keep this fitted to the vehicle. Is it possible to mount the JATE rings anywhere else so that A) they are strong enough to be used as intended and B) can be used with the front bumper & valence fitted to the vehicle?
I don’t mind cutting a small hole in the front valence to allow each JATE ring to poke through, but just not sure if this is possible – anyone managed it before? Photo’s would be perfect if you’ve got them!
khaos
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The easy option would be take it off and put it back after.
If not a steering guard would be the best way to do it.
joe1972
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I agree Mike. I also prefer the look of the classic with the front valance in place. Removing it does change the look. A steering gaurd also does change the look even more considerably too.
My current on-roader the 92 green 3.9 has the front valance and it would be a problem to get some decent recovery points to the front with it in place.
However, my previous on-roader the 89 black 3.5 also had the front lower valance in place and at first glance was identical, BUT, it had some 'cutouts' in it where through one a tow point was, and another possible on the other side. I'm not sure if it had been modified, or if the earlier lower valances have a very slight different design (?). The bottom edge of it was a slightly different shape too.
Might be worth investigating.
My current on-roader the 92 green 3.9 has the front valance and it would be a problem to get some decent recovery points to the front with it in place.
However, my previous on-roader the 89 black 3.5 also had the front lower valance in place and at first glance was identical, BUT, it had some 'cutouts' in it where through one a tow point was, and another possible on the other side. I'm not sure if it had been modified, or if the earlier lower valances have a very slight different design (?). The bottom edge of it was a slightly different shape too.
Might be worth investigating.
joe1972
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Thats a good point khaos.
Can never inderstand why people are like this. Part of the pay n play day is to have a bit of a laugh n giggle when things go a bit **** shaped (as long as no ones hurt).... Its always handy chattin to people who know more about it than me, and hopefully some of the help, advice and pointers don't go in my of my ears and straight out the other.
khaos
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I probably wouldn't spend more than an hour there if there was no one else there.
The first time I went, I came back from lunch and the guys had written "WARNING! NOVICE!" across my back window. I didn't notice until I came to reverse. They found it most ammusing :doh:
Well, I didn't fit the JATE rings as ran out of time - did get the diff guard on though (only the front, rear is going to need some modification to get it up between the diff and the tank I think)! Too tight at present!
Anyway, I think what I am going to do is fit the JATE ring further back to some existing holes in the chassis, then attach a 1 metre strop I've got between them with a bow shackle at either end. To that strop I will then attached my tow rope and feed that through a slot I will cut in the front bumper, and then that can come up to mirrors or windows when offroading so it is easily accessible. Sorted!
Anyway, I think what I am going to do is fit the JATE ring further back to some existing holes in the chassis, then attach a 1 metre strop I've got between them with a bow shackle at either end. To that strop I will then attached my tow rope and feed that through a slot I will cut in the front bumper, and then that can come up to mirrors or windows when offroading so it is easily accessible. Sorted!
Mr Noisy
Coming in your ears.
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sounds fine to me mike juist make sure its got a clear pull, dont want it bending/breaking anything when it gets a good tug!
you could even cut a slit in the valance and pass the strop through, then fit a shackle in it, and that would stop it falling back through the valance again.
cheers
juist make sure its got a clear pull, dont want it bending/breaking anything when it gets a good tug!you could even cut a slit in the valance and pass the strop through, then fit a shackle in it, and that would stop it falling back through the valance again.
cheers
That's pretty much what I had in mind Mr Noisy!
One question I do have about the diff guards - the front one fits on the front face of the diff guard and looks fine, but the rear one has to be fitted to the rear of the rear diff, rather than the front face - is that right? I can't see how much is going to hit the rear of the diff, unless you drop down onto a rock maybe, but likelihood is you'll smack the diff on something going forward - and the front edge is unprotected.
Also, neither diff guard covers the bottom of the diff pan itself, so the base of the diff casing is still the lowest point and is unprotected. Is that just a rubbish design? This is pretty much identical to the ones I have fitted:
One question I do have about the diff guards - the front one fits on the front face of the diff guard and looks fine, but the rear one has to be fitted to the rear of the rear diff, rather than the front face - is that right? I can't see how much is going to hit the rear of the diff, unless you drop down onto a rock maybe, but likelihood is you'll smack the diff on something going forward - and the front edge is unprotected.
Also, neither diff guard covers the bottom of the diff pan itself, so the base of the diff casing is still the lowest point and is unprotected. Is that just a rubbish design? This is pretty much identical to the ones I have fitted:
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jack the body slightly to get clearance around the tank.Well, I didn't fit the JATE rings as ran out of time - did get the diff guard on though (only the front, rear is going to need some modification to get it up between the diff and the tank I think)! Too tight at present!
Anyway, I think what I am going to do is fit the JATE ring further back to some existing holes in the chassis, then attach a 1 metre strop I've got between them with a bow shackle at either end. To that strop I will then attached my tow rope and feed that through a slot I will cut in the front bumper, and then that can come up to mirrors or windows when offroading so it is easily accessible. Sorted!
I tried that! Well, you say jack up - I was lifting the car up (yes, by hand!) whilst my mate tried to get the guard between the gap, but no luck! So will have to use a proper jack, rather than trying to lift a Range Rover by hand!
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bottle jack and couple bits of wood under the chassis rail, dont need to come off the floor.
Mr Noisy
Coming in your ears.
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Mike!
The weak part of the diff is the round pan, it's only about 1.5mm thick.
The rest of the axle is very thick, so there is no problem.
The front obviously takes some hammer, but the rear one too, when reversing. I've got a big cut in my rear diff guard, so I'm glad it was there!
I see what you're getting at and if you go to Qt Services and look at their guards you will see they are a complete wrap round slider style.
But the cheaper ones you have solely protect the part that really needs it, so you'll be just fine. The diff casing (bit the prop shaft comes out of) and the axle case are more than man enough to fight their own battles!
So now you can go forwards, and reverse, without worries
The weak part of the diff is the round pan, it's only about 1.5mm thick.
The rest of the axle is very thick, so there is no problem.
The front obviously takes some hammer, but the rear one too, when reversing. I've got a big cut in my rear diff guard, so I'm glad it was there!
I see what you're getting at and if you go to Qt Services and look at their guards you will see they are a complete wrap round slider style.
But the cheaper ones you have solely protect the part that really needs it, so you'll be just fine. The diff casing (bit the prop shaft comes out of) and the axle case are more than man enough to fight their own battles!
So now you can go forwards, and reverse, without worries
khaos
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He's right. Mine got pulled off a while ago and I just got around the putting it back on saturday and I lifted mine up with a hi lift then put it on.
Mike!
The weak part of the diff is the round pan, it's only about 1.5mm thick.
The rest of the axle is very thick, so there is no problem.
The front obviously takes some hammer, but the rear one too, when reversing. I've got a big cut in my rear diff guard, so I'm glad it was there!
I see what you're getting at and if you go to Qt Services and look at their guards you will see they are a complete wrap round slider style.
But the cheaper ones you have solely protect the part that really needs it, so you'll be just fine. The diff casing (bit the prop shaft comes out of) and the axle case are more than man enough to fight their own battles!
So now you can go forwards, and reverse, without worries
That's good news then, thanks Mr Noisy!
Khaos/goonarmy - Hoping to get the rear one on today at work - there's a great ramp up to the warehouse that should allow enough axle articulation to slip the diff guard in place
