discovery td5 M and S light flashing?

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
M

Mpower!

Active Member
Posts
344
just got my discovery back driven it home about ten miles no problems! got home turned it off and back on again and the M and S lights are flashing up on the dash on my auto td5 and not letting me pull away very well, the revs rise but it feels like your slipping a clutch really bad.

anyone experianced this or know what it is? im assuming its a sensor? as the gearbox is fine not clunking and as i said it just drove me home 15 miles no problems at all.

thanks Mpower!
 
Mpower! said:
just got my discovery back driven it home about ten miles no problems! got home turned it off and back on again and the M and S lights are flashing up on the dash on my auto td5 and not letting me pull away very well, the revs rise but it feels like your slipping a clutch really bad.

anyone experianced this or know what it is? im assuming its a sensor? as the gearbox is fine not clunking and as i said it just drove me home 15 miles no problems at all.

thanks Mpower!
Click to expand...

Hi there, your car is going into "limp home mode" which locks the gearbox in 3rd gear which is why it gives you that 'slipping clutch' feel. So why is it doing this?

1. Poor battery condition giving insufficient voltage to the EATS ECU;

2. Air con drains dripping onto the gear selector switch and shorting the contacts;

3. Faulty gear selector switch.

First thing I would do is to charge the battery for a couple of days, if only to eliminate this.
 
Or wiring fault to XY switch, or problems with injector harness-communication time out fault.
Essentially if it persists, you need a diagnostic check.
 
Ok the battery is about 2weeks old but I'll check it anyway and can some one post a link or a part number for the cuz switch and the gear selector switch please and I'll replace both!
 
Mpower! said:
Ok the battery is about 2weeks old but I'll check it anyway and can some one post a link or a part number for the cuz switch and the gear selector switch please and I'll replace both!
Click to expand...
I wouldnt rush to replace the wxyz switch,they are over £300 now,get a decent diagnostic check done,looking at the faults in both engine and gearbox ecu.Whilst its being done its also easy to see the voltage feed to both ecu's as live data.
No point in spending money on parts that may not fix it.;)
 
Mpower! said:
Ok then where abouts are the switches so I can take them off and give them a clean?
Click to expand...


There is only one switch and it is on the passenger side (rhd) of the gearbox. There is also the electrical connector adjacent to it.

Also check to see if the aircon drain pipe is just above it - this can dribble water into the connections - if it is work out a way of extending it so that it misses the electrics.
 
Just replaced the switch at a cost of £372 and 1.5hours of my time and still no luck? Any other ideas anyone?
 
Mpower! said:
Just replaced the switch at a cost of £372 and 1.5hours of my time and still no luck? Any other ideas anyone?
Click to expand...
FFS, I told you they are a load of money,why not just get it on Testbook and get some codes and live data going ?
 
eightinavee said:
FFS, I told you they are a load of money,why not just get it on Testbook and get some codes and live data going ?
Click to expand...


because im an impatiant ****, thats it really, its been recovered back to my local land rover specialist so see what they say tommorow!:doh:
 
I've had this problem for the past 3 weeks ( M and S lights flashing ) and am going to replace the battery tomorrow as I reckon the cold weather and the fact that Ive had the car 3 1/2 yrs and the battery looks like it is the original fitted.( 2001 TD5 Auto ) What is the correct type of battery to go for as I cant really see anything on mine.
 
Ciaran666 said:
I've had this problem for the past 3 weeks ( M and S lights flashing ) and am going to replace the battery tomorrow as I reckon the cold weather and the fact that Ive had the car 3 1/2 yrs and the battery looks like it is the original fitted.( 2001 TD5 Auto ) What is the correct type of battery to go for as I cant really see anything on mine.
Click to expand...


You want a battery that will physically fit the space, with at least 90amp/hr and a cca (cold cranking amps) of 750 or more.

My advice, do not buy cheap and do not buy Numax batteries. I've had two now and they are both crâp in cold weather, irrespective of their specifications.

Good luck

Dave
 
Ciaran666 said:
Ta for that Ill check they put at least that power rating in it. Just found the workshop manual listing states 110 amp/hr.

Ciaran
Click to expand...


Hi Ciaran, when it's a starting battery the cca figure is more important than the amp/hrs figure.

For example, one of the best batteries for reliable cold-weather starting is the Optima Red Top - it has a cca figure of 815, but is only 50amp/hr.
 
I have spoken to local landy indie and the have original Disco 2 fitted batteries for £110 + vat but nearest garage quoted £ 145 plus v, still really hoping that if I change out battery gearbox problem may sort itsel oot ( Really dont want to spend 300 notes as quoted for part only ( Selector switch ) ). Checked out selector switch and could not really get at it as need to remove exhaust to get in to it.
 
thebiglad said:
You want a battery that will physically fit the space, with at least 90amp/hr and a cca (cold cranking amps) of 750 or more.

My advice, do not buy cheap and do not buy Numax batteries. I've had two now and they are both crâp in cold weather, irrespective of their specifications.

Good luck

Dave
Click to expand...

No pobs whatsoever with my Numax. It's been bloody cold recently and getting colder but the motor spins up no problem at all.
 
Had this problem with mine....was told by a friend if the battery is giving out a good voltage, it could be the XYZ switch sticking. He told me to hold the auto gear stick button in and vigorously move it forwards and backwards a number of times. This sorted it and its been fine ever since :)
 
Access Denied said:
No pobs whatsoever with my Numax. It's been bloody cold recently and getting colder but the motor spins up no problem at all.
Click to expand...


Well that's what I was hoping for, but unfortunately what I actually experienced was very disappointing. Particularly on the second one - the 1000mca version - as I took the time to give it a good charge up, before putting it into service.

Dave
 
could be low voltage from battery, had he same problem , fault would reset once i swicthed off ignition.try starting and let the engine run for 30m seconds or so, let battery recover, if fault does no show , have battery and alternator checked out. all the best .mark
 
Well well turns out it wasnt the battery , but the XYZ switch. Plugged in at local indie. Faults showed XYZ or loom problem so they said they would change out switch and only charge me if it was the problem. They did it there and then and I have had no faults since but we will see this morning when I go out, only fly in ointment was a £ 284 plus vat for switch.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Andrewoldold
M&S lights no crank / potentially immobilised?
Replies
1
Views
313
sierrafery
sierrafery
archwayanimal
M and S issue
Replies
13
Views
993
sierrafery
sierrafery
Heathereviemay
M and S flashing
Replies
3
Views
1K
MJI
MJI
H
V8 down on power
Replies
3
Views
264
discool
discool
N
Discovery auto gerabox issues
Replies
19
Views
1K
marjon
marjon
Back
Top