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discovery td5 M and S light flashing?

Discussion in 'Land Rover Discovery' started by Mpower!, Nov 23, 2010.

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  1. sierrafery

    sierrafery Well-Known Member

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    The fault code is the same with the new feed?
     
  2. malcolm jones

    malcolm jones Member

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    It clears the fault but when you start it up it re generates the fault gearbox selector
     
  3. sierrafery

    sierrafery Well-Known Member

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    Continuity tests are necessary on the wires between the xyz switch and header joint C0724(which is embeded in that harness) the wire colours are the same from the switch to the header and from the header toward the BCU and EAT ECU
     
  4. malcolm jones

    malcolm jones Member

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    I'll try but not good with wiring lol got my own business garden machinery sales and repaires so trying to do it in between
     
  5. sierrafery

    sierrafery Well-Known Member

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    I've just had a mind flash.... put a 1A inline fuse on that new feed you made eventually if it doesnt blow measure voltage on it cos it might drop due to somne resistive short as if it drops below 10V the ECU will not recognise the outputs, also this can be the reason of missing feed from the BCU cos it has a protection in it and if it feels a short to ground it cuts the feed
     
  6. malcolm jones

    malcolm jones Member

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    Sorry guys just picked up messages just come in from a nightmare day in workshop on mowers lol I don't have any 1 ap fuses did not even no they went done that low
     
  7. sierrafery

    sierrafery Well-Known Member

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  8. Naki kouyioumtzis

    Naki kouyioumtzis Active Member

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    Hi all. i am yet another to have to this issue. I have done lots of reading on this, and theres loads of forums threads out there and mostly everyone says the same information.
    I did all the recommended checks regarding battery voltage, strong connections on the leads, earth straps (i even added and additional engine to chassis earth lead to make sure) and then changed the XY switch for a brand new one. But nothing fixed it, until i went to my friendly local main dealer, where i got the key piece of information.
    "9/10 its transmission wiring loom that has a broken wire, near where it fixes with the P clip".
    Sure enough, on removing the loom i found a broken wiring on one of the T junctions. Only one wire was broken, and a few others had some slight chaffing. Soldered up the break and now even is back to normal.
    very happy to finally have solved this issue
    I will add some pics asap.
     
    Last edited: Aug 28, 2017
  9. Naki kouyioumtzis

    Naki kouyioumtzis Active Member

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    also when reconnecting the loom, its best to remove the centre console veneer to be able to plug the connectors back in. (details on how to in the Haynes manual etc)
     

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  10. Naki kouyioumtzis

    Naki kouyioumtzis Active Member

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    soldered.
     

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  11. malcolm jones

    malcolm jones Member

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    Thanks for reply sorted mine out it had reverted itself back to manual mode in setting switched it back to auto in the diagnostic and all lights came back on dash and it's be sorted for the last few months if any one wants a brand new x y z switch I have a brand new Oem one I never used will sell it for £190 and thanks for info
     
  12. Bobdog

    Bobdog Well-Known Member

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    had this issue today and a quick search led me to this thread. saw this post and gave it a try - it worked!
    sticky xyz switch. i suppose unless you use all the gears rather than just P, D and R, the switch could get gunked up. moral is, try the simple things first.
     
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  13. thebiglad

    thebiglad Well-Known Member

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    A friend had the M&S lights coming on intermittently? Checked battery voltage, but eventually found oil in the main ECU plugs. After cleaning and drying thoroughly no more troubles.
     
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  14. Bobdog

    Bobdog Well-Known Member

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    thats the next thing i will be checking. it doesn't seem to be running as smoothly as it should. nothing anyone else might notice but you know your own car. got a couple of unexpected days off so i'll be having a look.
     
  15. thebiglad

    thebiglad Well-Known Member

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    If you're "going in" can I suggest you do something else? Check the MAP sensor on the inlet manifold. It's not at all unknown for these to be so caked up with black clag that they don't work correctly. Clean off with aerosol brake & clutch cleaner. Takes 2 to 3 mins but deffo helps with the running.
     
  16. Bobdog

    Bobdog Well-Known Member

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    i have actually done that fairly recently though i might give it another clean. i know my maf sensor is dead, (no signal on neilly's nanocom) but it was running ok on default. it just seems very slightly 'rougher' than it used to be with a kind of 'rumble' at around 2000rpm. my engine mounts have seen better days so that probably doesn't help.
     
  17. neilly

    neilly Well-Known Member Full Member

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    You still have not fixed it? But I suppose at the time you had other things to sorry about....LOL.

    Cheers
     
  18. Bobdog

    Bobdog Well-Known Member

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    well... i did swap it for my old one which i cleaned up (very carefully!) but i dont know if that one was working as there was no noticeable difference. after having to splash out on a torque converter, i didnt have much left for a new maf sensor!
     
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  19. malcolm jones

    malcolm jones Member

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    Hi guys my issue as been sorted it turned out to be the thing had reverted to a manual in diagnostics when I switched it back to auto everything came right .I bought an Oem xyz switch ready but have not used it still in box if any body wants one at a discounted price I’ll let it go for £280.00ono I think I paid about £350 with vat if any one is interested just message me on her
     
  20. brian47

    brian47 Well-Known Member

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    I've got a manual Disco so I don't need one but I'm sure that @blue beasty might offer you at least a half chewed Mars bar for it.
     
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