Ball joint Splitter - Which One???

a - Folk
NEW TIE ROD - BALL JOINT SPLITTER PITMAN ARM TOOL KIT on eBay (end time 06-Oct-10 23:43:05 BST)


b- Scissor
Pro Ball Joint Splitter Separator Scissor Type - NEW on eBay (end time 10-Oct-10 15:19:54 BST)

c- Summat else (Please Specify)

I haven't come across a ball joint on a landy yet that wouldn't come apart with a swift tap from a nice hammer.

I have option A and can't fault it. Sometimes you can mushroom the ends of the track rod end threads from hitting it too hard if you simply smack the ball joint with a hammer.

I have a scissor type from ,dare i say it machine mart,but it was much cheaper than those and never fails,prior to that use a large ball pein hammer,a few good blows will release the most stubbon TRE's

Aye H have used a hammer myself a few times but being up **** creek when it aint happening and not having the kit is not fun. Am about to tackle the swivel pin and with two track rods to remove am not fancing me chances of plain sailing! :doh:

Ah've got the furt one, but found by chappin' (gently) around where the ball joint fits in is enough tae spring it out

Based on a few years experiance,
A, It works but will damage the rubber dust cover of the ball joint, ok if you are replacing the joint.
B, It works without any problems unless the joint has never been replaced and been in place for years then then go to C.
C, B works with the Top Tip a blow or two from a 1lb hammer.

I will now go away

So am reckoning a b plus a decent hammer of which i have plenty! yeah! Thanks for the help!

Boris113 said:

..... Sometimes you can mushroom the ends of the track rod end threads from hitting it too hard if you simply smack the ball joint with a hammer.

Click to expand...

Not if you undo the nut until it sits flush with the top of the stud before you mallet it.

the fork ones a waste of time unless your replacing the joint..it'll bust the rubber then you'll have to replace it.

Worked in a garage for 20 years and never seen a ball joint splitter used, dont even know if we have one. They seem to be things that go hand and hand with a haynes manual.

A 2lb hammer works everytime with usually no more than a couple of well placed smacks (not taps but propper let it have it smacks), if its in a dodgy place leave the nut on the last few threads just incase your aims a bit off. Oh and your hitting the metal hole the joint goes in to not the joint itself. [nomedia="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tX7GVWcB-bg"]YouTube - Removing/Breaking Ball-Joint Taper[/nomedia]