Torque Wrench Required

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Landyjd

Landyjd

Active Member
Posts
333
Location
NZ
Hi all,

Just had a quick question. I am planning to replace the gearbox and transfer case oil soon in my 90. Also, the oil in the swivel pin housing.

I have seen in the manual which I downloaded that there are specific torques for all these plugs. I was just wondering whether a torque wrench would be advisable or whether most people just use their judgement. We do have an old-fashioned torque wrench (non-clicking) with a needle to indicate torque.

Also, are there any specific torques for the diff. oil plugs? I can't seem to find any in the manual.

Thanks
 
Thanks for that. I assume then that there is no specific torque for the diff. plugs. also, I was wondering whether I am right in saying that the same oil is used in the swivel pin housing as in the transfer box and diffs.? Thanks.
 
In the manual I downloaded, it says:

Front differential
Rear differential
Swivel pin
housings and
LT230R & LT23OT
Transfer box

all use the same oil/lubricant: EP90

I was just wondering whether anyone uses anything different.
 
they do till the mid 90s when they started filling swivel housings with grease ,yours may have grease added later but top up with oil then you be right either way
 
I use Lucas Oil Stabilisor mixed with EP in my diffs and transfer box. It quietens it down. It goes in the gearbox and engine as well!
 
So really, because I have an older (1986) Ninety, I can use grease or EP90 in the swivels? I have grease for doing the grease points underneath the vehicle, would that be ok to use for the swivels?
 
one shot grease is a measured amount best bought in a sachet each sachet does one swivel ,it isnt ordinary grease which is too thick but more viscous (cv grease)
 
Only difference to using grease imho is that it's a fookin pain clearing the swivel housing if it's had a leak over a period of time and you want to top it up.
 
According to the manual, 0.35 litres per side approximately for the swivels.

Something else I was meaning to ask about. In the manual I downloaded, it says that to grease the propeller shafts:

1. Clean all the grease nipples on the front and rear
propshaft universal joints, and sliding portion of
the rear shaft.
2. Charge a low pressure hand grease gun with grease
of a recommended make and grade and apply to
the grease nipples.
3.Remove the screwed plug from the front shaft and
fit a suitable grease nipple.
4. Disconnect one end of the front propeller shaft and
compress the sliding portion whilst applying
grease. It is necessary to compress the shaft to
prevent over filling with grease. It should be noted
that this sliding portion must only be lubricated at
40.000 km (24,000 mile) intervals.
5. Reconncct the propeller shaft, remove the grease
nipple and fit the screwed plug.

I have had a look at the propeller shaft, and it looks as thought there is already a grease nipple there rather than a plug, as though in the past someone has decided not to refit the plug. Is this a problem, and should I try and find a plug, or can I just leave the grease nipple.
Also, the front prop shaft has a sort of rubber gaiter, while the rear does not. Is this a problem? (Is there supposed to be a gaiter on the rear?)
Finally, I was wondering how you go about disconnecting one end of the propshaft (It seems like from the manual you only need to disconnect the front shaft to grease it, not the back). I see that there are several bolts arranged in a circle at one end, are these the ones I should undo to disconnect one end?

I hope you can understand these questions!
 
all the defender models use the same lower swiel bearing and similar cvs so lubrication can be the same ,but on earlier defender models with rialko bush removing pin and lubing rialko bush before adding grease would help ,mixing ep 90 ontop of grease if unsure of grease amount wont hurt either lr only started to use the grease to remove swivels from servicing
 
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