jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 91,879
- Location
- louth lincs
just grease slide regulary with prop in place, excess will push out past spline and seal ,most ball joints dont have grease nipples but joints can be bought with same with ujs
Torque Wrench Required
- Thread starter Landyjd
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Sorry, are you saying that they started using grease to make the swivels easier to remove?
- Posts
- 83,310
- Location
- Embasinga stocæ
it is worth removing the nipples every now and again, because they are known to get blocked.
That sounds like an easier way of doing things, rather than undoing one end of the prop. I only have a low pressure hand-operated grease gun, so I hope I will be able to make the excess grease push past the seal!
I assume then that I will do no damage by greasing with the prop in place?
Does anyone know the answer to my question (from earlier) about the rubber gaiter on the propshaft. There is one on the front prop on my 90, but not on the rear. Is this a problem?
blue beasty
Leaks an prone to bits dropping off
- Posts
- 64,121
- Location
- Gloucestercotshirewolds
The gaiters aren't a bad idea so long as their not split, which would hold more crap in than keep out....
Plenty dont have them and all things considered regular greasing is more important
Thanks for that. I might try and find one then. (I like to know that everything is well looked after underneath).
Does anyone know whether putting one on would involve disconnecting one end of the propshaft, because if so then I might not bother.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 91,879
- Location
- louth lincs
it does and mark to halves of prop before pulling apart at the slide as there orientation is important
Just to clarify, what you are saying is when I reattach the end of the prop, each of the holes at the end would have to line up with the same holes as before when I reattach them.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 91,879
- Location
- louth lincs
its not were the prop bolts to diff flange or transfer box end that matters but the prop itself which is in two pieces and joins at the slide ,the relation ship of these two parts must be kept correct so you mark them so that the two parts can be slid together in the same splines as they were
Badger
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 4,669
- Location
- Marldon, Devon
I see what you mean, and the photos in the link above are handy. There may be a bit of cleaning involved before I can see any arrows though!
I was having a look at everything that has been discussed on this thread underneath my vehicle today, and I noticed that while the front UJ on the front propshaft has a grease nipple in the joint, the UJ nearer the back didn't appear to have one. Is ths normal (If you can understand what I'm saying)?
Badger
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 4,669
- Location
- Marldon, Devon
It is normal as different manufacturers supply different set ups.
A grease nipple is easier to apply grease to the propshaft as you don't have to remove it to do so, where as an older prop without a nipple requires you to remove it, seperate the 2 parts and apply your grease that way.
Found the grease nipples! Buried under mounds of thick, dirty grease which I thought was just part of the UJ!
Both propshafts have grease nipples fitted for greasing the slide, however I can't be sure whether they are supposed to have plugs and someone in the past has just decided not to refit them after greasing and left the grease nipples in place. Any way to tell?
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 91,879
- Location
- louth lincs
leave them in greaes regulary
