Series King Cab

surely cables can be any length as long as not too short

for gearbox and throttle ?

They could be but for the sake of it I may as well do it to the right length. Its had the cable crudely cut anyway so I'm going to undo it and for the sake of £3 for cable + crimps and £2 for a sleeve I may as well do it the right length and at least it wont stretch too far then!

The accelerator cable if too long wouldn't allow for the throttle to open correctly when I depress the pedal though

course it would ,some v8s have really long ones but if youve got an answer no worry

Well my thinking was the mechanism would have to take up the slack before it actually pulls the actuator on the plenum ?

The standard series one is about an inch longer than my current one from the looks of it next to the midgets series and for the price of thin steel cable I may as well again just do it as it wont take me longer than 20 mins to measure, cut and fit it up

2 choices long one from pedal or short one from passenger side lever

Ahhh there lies the problem!

You're thinking of a standard setup, my lever is on the drivers side! So the cable runs to from the actuator through the guide and onto the lever which it links up to on a pin. Thats how it was on the carb setup but the carbs obviously had a slightly longer actuator as it fitted in with room to spare as it was on a stopper when I took it off

Dr_evil said:

Final to do list and then MOT

So to go through it in detail;




Handbrake - needs to be a custom length so I'm making it up of thin steel rope in a heavy duty heat shrink tube. Shrink one end, pump with grease and shrink other end


Throttle - the cable has to be a custom length due to the set up so I need to make a new one out of steel rope/string again but for now a cable tie will do as a just get it moving mod!


Lights - the wires just need stripping, soldering and heat shrinking so thats an hour or two's worth of work next week


Washer pump - the old one was well past it and totally fubar so I'm just going to hood up and old fuel pump that I have and use it to provide water to the jets. Its a bit of an overkill but I have it spare so why not Should fit nicely inside a disco washer bottle or a custom steel one


Wipers - the wiper motor or wiring is buggered, so if its the motor I'll be taking off the bodywork as if the screens not there it cant be tested if its the wiring it can go on a new circuit and I'll rewire it to the old one when I buy a 3 speed motor


Fuel gauge, speedo, temp guage - these need addressing for obvious reasons when running a V8 so for this I have a few options. Use defender clocks which give me a backlit set of instruments and should look a bit more stock or I can use the RRC/D1 cluster which would also give me a rev counter. However as none of these are an MOT fail I wont be bothering for now other than fitting a standalone temp gauge!


Exhaust - the exhaust needs re-fabrication as I've decided to go for P38 manifolds. So I just need to make up some downpipes and change the angles slightly but it does mean I get more or less tubular headers These will need wrapping in heat cloth or some asbestos if I can find any


Wings and slam panel - the wings obviously have the lights in them so they need to go on before the wiring but its just five bolts on each wing, one on the slam panel either side and three on the base. However my new custom slam panel now houses the radiator so I can keep a skinny viscous fan on the block which will no doubt help cooling a lot! It also allows me to more or less keep the series look seeing as I've had to move the block forward to increase prop length


Gearbox tunnel - this needs to be a custom size and shape due to me hacking up the bulkhead (it was fecked and I was bored) but I'll be getting it made from nice shiny ally


Seatbox and floors - as it sounds for floors but the seatbox needs trimming in the centre due to the width of the R380 and extra height over the series box. It'll be fitted and then the back end of the tunnel will be trimmed to fit


Rear tub and inner tub - the rear tub is a custom size and just needs drilling and riveting in place now the inner tub will be riveted in place once I weld up the crossmembers as it lets me get to the central one with the floor removed


Rear bulkhead - this just needs a few longer rivets putting in the cappings as the small ones wouldn't quite go all the way through the capping and bulkhead


Fit and bleed slave - as it sounds, getting a new pipe made up atm and then need to wait for me new slave rod



Roof, back and sides - these need tidying up a little with some ally plate and body filler but not a huge job. Probably take me a day next week to fully tidy when its dry



X members - The Egg has given me an R380/LT230 crossmember (this is bolt in but needs welding due to the series not having the holes) so that needs bolting to the box, levelling and welding up and the central one I had to replace needs welding in place too as its currently just held in by the force of the chassis


Props - these are being done on the cheap……….using one of my old series ones I'm having them chopped down just to get me mobile and I'm having a disco rear prop shortened by 2 inches to fit the front of the series


ECU and MAF - the ECU is getting mounted inside on the passenger side of the gearbox tunnel in a sealed container so it doesn't get soaked. MAF will get mounted to the inner wing or rear of the slam panel I think


New wheels - leadfarmer gave me some nice cheap modulars with general grabbers on them so they will be replacing my old cracked series wheels til I can afford Mach 5's or ZU's


Fuel filter - just an inline filter before the regulator


Alternator and belt - need to decide if I want a right or left hand alternator as I have both brackets and then the belt needs putting on to drive it and the water pump


Finally the seats and belts - these are being brought up to me from stroud and I'm taking the disco 1 seatbelts from the breaker in the yard

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Handbrake - you can buy uncut mountain bike cable from most bike shops.

Temp gauge - i have a water one with a sender for sale if you need one.

Seat belts - i have a full set you can have for just postage.

discomark10 said:

Handbrake - you can buy uncut mountain bike cable from most bike shops.

Temp gauge - i have a water one with a sender for sale if you need one.

Seat belts - i have a full set you can have for just postage.

Click to expand...

Will send you a PM on gauge I was planning on buying some thicker stuff from tractor shop

Slave collected, prop dropped off and now waiting for the bumper metal from the cutters so I can make a beefy bumper

Dr_evil said:

Slave collected, prop dropped off and now waiting for the bumper metal from the cutters so I can make a beefy bumper

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Doc you ever get the cab done yet? Would really like to see how you joined them together.

I'll get a proper pic next week, not touching it again til then but its rivets, angled aluminium at the corners so it looks like the standard trim piece (the sides are made from 2 flats anyway riveted together) and then a bit of sealant under the plate so its watertight


Its essentially the same way they were done before as it was about the only thing the PO got right on it!


Anyway I'm gonna go and make my bumper now or at least the main part of it as the recovery points aren't cut yet. They're going to be drilled with the correct hole and then hand ground to the correct radius on a wheel.

Gonna be 60x12mm as theres no more 15x75 left

Bumper is half done now Will upload a pic of the finished item next week


Made a stumpy bumper due to my wings being cut but its by no means small!

Are you thinking of making a winch bumper?

I've already thought about it for all of 11 seconds and started making it


Gonna plasma cut my fairlead roller slot in the bumper next week

Interesting thread any chance of some pictures
Jon

Not today, will have some later in the week once I pick up some more parts for it

Diddy propshaft is diddy

jesus that is small

Just so you know thats the V8 water pump in the background its only 390mm!

Gotta test fit it this weekend and see if its the right size, if not a little more may have to come off before its welded back up

not going to be able to have much travel on the front!