Series King Cab

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Dr_evil said:
Auto cad 2012 or at uni I also have solid works but haven't bought it for use at home
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I like using solidworks, we use it in school and college (yes both, I'm in sixth form and go to college once a week to do a level 3 mechanical engineering course) :) If you get a copy for home use you'll get the DWGeditor which is basically Autocad :) Thats the only thing that works on my home copy so no 3d work for me :(
 
I can use 3D auto as at home just haven't downloaded the update but CBA. Solid works is much nicer so may pay the £25 and get it :)

Bumper designs can be done in 2D though as can series parts etc
 
Dr_evil said:
I can use 3D auto as at home just haven't downloaded the update but CBA. Solid works is much nicer so may pay the £25 and get it :)

Bumper designs can be done in 2D though as can series parts etc
Click to expand...

Yes most the bits on a series are square so that simplifies things a bit :) Is it only £25 for solidworks now, when I looked last it was quite a bit more than that? Where can you get that from? :cool:
 
Well thats lucky, you get 3/4 years of free software :) We used to get the software from my dad when he was working in tinto in the drawing office before everyone got laid off, he can do some good stuff on Autocad :) Naturally I can't use it properly :rolleyes:
 
Just found out I can get almost all the autocad programs for free :D having a field day right now and downloading the three most expensive free ones :D



Got Autocad Maya, Alias Automotive and Alias Industrial :D Maya does 3D animations and the like, the other two are just as good apparently but do proper surface texture design too as well as being more intuitive than standard 2D cad


If anyone would like a copy I may be able to email a compressed file over with the activation codes
 
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I have standard 2D, Maya and Alias automotive………don't know how to work the last two so I may junk them and get solidworks for £25 as its a lot easier to use!


If I was you I'd download 2D, 3D and one of the rendering programs. Get standard or automotive 2D though as its better than architecture
 
Ok so got the rear tub sorted out, I will have 36-3/4" worth of tub space in the back, tub is 2mm folded sheet ally

Rear tub repair sections which are opposing angle in 2x2" sorted as well as a blanking plate for the end of the tub seatbox where its been trimmed.

Custom front slam panel has also been sorted out, this will be able to house my Saab 93 TDI rad and leave me space for the viscous fan

So if all goes to plan this weekend I may have a 75% completed project :D other 25% being the seats, plug wires back in, mount ECU and bolt custom props on :D
 
Final to do list and then MOT :D


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So to go through it in detail;




Handbrake - needs to be a custom length so I'm making it up of thin steel rope in a heavy duty heat shrink tube. Shrink one end, pump with grease and shrink other end :)


Throttle - the cable has to be a custom length due to the set up so I need to make a new one out of steel rope/string again but for now a cable tie will do as a just get it moving mod!


Lights - the wires just need stripping, soldering and heat shrinking so thats an hour or two's worth of work next week :D


Washer pump - the old one was well past it and totally fubar so I'm just going to hood up and old fuel pump that I have and use it to provide water to the jets. Its a bit of an overkill but I have it spare so why not :) Should fit nicely inside a disco washer bottle or a custom steel one


Wipers - the wiper motor or wiring is buggered, so if its the motor I'll be taking off the bodywork as if the screens not there it cant be tested :D if its the wiring it can go on a new circuit and I'll rewire it to the old one when I buy a 3 speed motor :)


Fuel gauge, speedo, temp guage - these need addressing for obvious reasons when running a V8 :eek: so for this I have a few options. Use defender clocks which give me a backlit set of instruments and should look a bit more stock or I can use the RRC/D1 cluster which would also give me a rev counter. However as none of these are an MOT fail I wont be bothering for now other than fitting a standalone temp gauge!


Exhaust - the exhaust needs re-fabrication as I've decided to go for P38 manifolds. So I just need to make up some downpipes and change the angles slightly but it does mean I get more or less tubular headers :D These will need wrapping in heat cloth or some asbestos if I can find any :rolleyes:


Wings and slam panel - the wings obviously have the lights in them so they need to go on before the wiring but its just five bolts on each wing, one on the slam panel either side and three on the base. However my new custom slam panel now houses the radiator so I can keep a skinny viscous fan on the block which will no doubt help cooling a lot! It also allows me to more or less keep the series look seeing as I've had to move the block forward to increase prop length


Gearbox tunnel - this needs to be a custom size and shape due to me hacking up the bulkhead (it was fecked and I was bored) but I'll be getting it made from nice shiny ally


Seatbox and floors - as it sounds for floors but the seatbox needs trimming in the centre due to the width of the R380 and extra height over the series box. It'll be fitted and then the back end of the tunnel will be trimmed to fit


Rear tub and inner tub - the rear tub is a custom size and just needs drilling and riveting in place now :D the inner tub will be riveted in place once I weld up the crossmembers as it lets me get to the central one with the floor removed


Rear bulkhead - this just needs a few longer rivets putting in the cappings as the small ones wouldn't quite go all the way through the capping and bulkhead


Fit and bleed slave - as it sounds, getting a new pipe made up atm and then need to wait for me new slave rod



Roof, back and sides - these need tidying up a little with some ally plate and body filler but not a huge job. Probably take me a day next week to fully tidy when its dry



X members - The Egg has given me an R380/LT230 crossmember (this is bolt in but needs welding due to the series not having the holes) so that needs bolting to the box, levelling and welding up and the central one I had to replace needs welding in place too as its currently just held in by the force of the chassis


Props - these are being done on the cheap……….using one of my old series ones I'm having them chopped down just to get me mobile and I'm having a disco rear prop shortened by 2 inches to fit the front of the series


ECU and MAF - the ECU is getting mounted inside on the passenger side of the gearbox tunnel in a sealed container so it doesn't get soaked. MAF will get mounted to the inner wing or rear of the slam panel I think


New wheels - leadfarmer gave me some nice cheap modulars with general grabbers on them so they will be replacing my old cracked series wheels til I can afford Mach 5's or ZU's


Fuel filter - just an inline filter before the regulator :)


Alternator and belt - need to decide if I want a right or left hand alternator as I have both brackets and then the belt needs putting on to drive it and the water pump


Finally the seats and belts - these are being brought up to me from stroud and I'm taking the disco 1 seatbelts from the breaker in the yard :D
 
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