Freelander 1 Return of the (Land) Rovers: Kilo-Hippo-Delta

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rob_bell said:
You're absolutely right about the PRT :)

No further coolant loss, so for the moment I remain slightly stumped and a little anxious. I need to plan another road trip and regain my lost confidence in the car!

Less getting time than expected this weekend, but I think I've finally cracked the annoying misfire!

After the fun over Salusbury Plain, loss of under tray and subsequent spectacular misfire, I took the HT cover off today to change the HT leads for nice new Magnecore ones (I've had brilliant experience these over the years).

This is what I found:
View attachment 118354

There is mud around the coil pack and down the #1 spark plug hole!!!

The new HT leads certainly helped the cold running enormously. But when warm, one of the coil packs started misbehaving again. The error codes and live data feed provided the necessary confirmation that it was the pack that had been bathed in mud that was misbehaving (it was playing up before, so it wasn't just Wiltshire mud causing problems!)

View attachment 118355View attachment 118356

A fresh coil pack was restored sweet running to this Hippo.

Still to sort:
1. OSF drop link
2. Both front lower wishbones
3. OSF ABS sensor +/- a yaw sensor (the latter may just need recalibration G?)
4. VCU support bearings

Get this lot done and I've got a nicely sorted Hippo! :D
Click to expand...
Good luck getting the wishbones off the rear support bushes. They have a nasty habit of seizing but I found leaving a puddle of release oil in the appropriate spot for a few days, then holding the bush in a vice while twisting and thumping with a hammer (best getting help for this bit) got them off.
 
Build thread update time!

To keep a few of the tangential threads in "one place", I have replaced the OSF ABS sensor, OSF lower wishbone and the OSF brake caliper: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/abs-sensors-which-one-to-buy.311266/

The NSF brake caliper has also been replaced, as it had seized. And for the 40 quid it costs, simpler and easier than a rebuild: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/sticking-nsf-brake-caliper.314472/

Once I have replaced the NSF lower wishbone (and got the Hippo re-tracked), I can finally finish off the alloy sump guard - detailed here: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/alloy-sump-guard-undertray.312465/

Making (slow) progress! :)
 
As the major stuff is now being ticked off the list, now thinking of minor cosmetic/practical items, including roof bars (bought a pair off Gary - useful for carrying bicycles and or luggage box) and...

And a soft OEM nudge/A bar.

My car has the dealer fit body kit. It's going to stayeven if it is a little "marmite" (good enough reason to keep it IMO). But somehow the bumper looks wrong. The A bar will balance the look, plus provide somewhere to mount an LED light bar (something similar to what Nodge has used).

Anyone have experience with these? If buying second hand, the trick will be to get the fitting kit as well... Which may be easier said than done!
 
Yeh, make sure you get the fitting kit - there are 2 brackets that fix to the metal part of the bumper that poke through holes you need to cut in the plastic part (valance) - bolts to fix it to the bumper and a bolt for each to fit to the A Bar. There are also long thin metal brackets that fit to the bottom of the A Bar that go through the valance and fix to the under tray securing bolts. So 2 x 2 brackets and I would think they would be a PITA to fabricate.
 
Thanks GG: I've found a copy of the LR accessories brochure with fitting instructions. Fabrication of each if the brackets would certainly be a pita - especially if dimensions were unknown!

I'll keep my eyes peeled :)
 
Thanks! :D

Hopefully I can get the plastic A bar with fixings GG - so hopefully won't need you to take your car apart but the offer is really appreciated if it comes to that! :) :D

And where it comes to light bars, you are the person to ask about them Nodge :) :D
 
Found a new problem when fitting the new alloy sump guard: one of the exhaust hangers has snapped. It's the one closest to the catalyst. I might have to break out the arc welder, but I don't really fancy welding under the car!

Other hangers seem fine for now - Should I just take it to an exhaust centre???
 
I don't the freelander at all really, but would a rivnut, or their larger cousins solve the problem ?
 
It needs a picture to explain really. The hanger has snapped just off the exhaust pipe, leaving the remainder hanging around in space still in the rubber bush. Sadly a rivnut wouldn't do it. :( I think it needs a welded repair. Shame it's broken at the catalyst mount!
 
Never seen these before: I'll double check the diameter of the catalyst outlet pipe, this could be ideal, thanks! :D
 
rob_bell said:
It needs a picture to explain really. The hanger has snapped just off the exhaust pipe, leaving the remainder hanging around in space still in the rubber bush. Sadly a rivnut wouldn't do it. :( I think it needs a welded repair. Shame it's broken at the catalyst mount!
Click to expand...

Ah! How very inconsiderate of it ;) - Nodge's suggestion should work then ( told you I don't know freelanders :D )

:)
 
Disco1BFG said:
Ah! How very inconsiderate of it ;) - Nodge's suggestion should work then ( told you I don't know freelanders :D )

:)
Click to expand...
LOL! I got a stern telling off, I can tell you! ;)

The eBay bracket is a great idea, but it may need a little modification (i.e. straightening out) to suit as the hanger is not vertically above the pipe, but rather to one side. Still, that shouldn't be too difficult to achieve. :)
 
rob_bell said:
LOL! I got a stern telling off, I can tell you! ;)

The eBay bracket is a great idea, but it may need a little modification (i.e. straightening out) to suit as the hanger is not vertically above the pipe, but rather to one side. Still, that shouldn't be too difficult to achieve. :)
Click to expand...

You can bend them to suit your needs. I've used those brackets many times. Until I discovered a cheaper method!!
 
rob_bell said:
Okay, now I have to ask: what's the cheaper method? :)
Click to expand...
I now use a standard exhaust D clamp of the correct size. I remove the U section and make up another U out if 8mm studding. I leave one end long, so it acts as the hanger. The new clamp is then assembled around and nuts fitted. The long end is then passed through the hanger, with a nut on the end. It sounds complicated, but it's not. Best of all, it's cheap and adjustable.
 
Perfect! Either option has to be better than welding under the car and enjoying the gentle pitter-patter of weld splatter... ;)
 
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