Re: there's a bit missing here....

E

EMB

Guest

• Sep 8, 2004

• #1

Mr.Nice. wrote:

> question is, can I get the little cam assemblies and all as a
> replacement part? or am I scrounging for parts to do this?

Yes - they're available at all decent LR parts outlets.

>
> any ideas for getting the damn drum off? other than hitting it some
> more...

Application of heat with a gas welding set normally helps to break them
free. In abscence of said blue tongued lizard copious quantities of
WD40 over a few days can help.

You did undo the retaining screw didn't you


--
EMB
change two to number to reply

 

A

Austin Shackles

Guest

• Sep 8, 2004

• #2

On or around Thu, 09 Sep 2004 06:55:13 +1200, EMB <[email protected]>
enlightened us thusly:

>Mr.Nice. wrote:
>
>> question is, can I get the little cam assemblies and all as a
>> replacement part? or am I scrounging for parts to do this?
>
>Yes - they're available at all decent LR parts outlets.
>
>>
>> any ideas for getting the damn drum off? other than hitting it some
>> more...
>
>Application of heat with a gas welding set normally helps to break them
>free. In abscence of said blue tongued lizard copious quantities of
>WD40 over a few days can help.
>
>You did undo the retaining screw didn't you

you'll also need to get the shoes backed off, in case there's a lip around
the edge of the drum.

pounding on 'em with a big (approx 3lb) hammer usually works in the end.
don't try and hit the rim in an "off-wards" direction though, around the
edge, as yer apt to break it. Mostly I hit on ther flat part of the drum
(outside where the shoes act on it) and rotate it the while, so you're
applying the hammer radially towards the hub centre. If it really won't
shift, buy a new drum and hit it with a *really* big hammer so as to brake
the old one. New drums are pretty cheap ISTR, and the chances are that old
ones are quite worn anyway - before I changed 'em, the ones on my old SII
were that worn that you could only use about half the lining thickness
before running out of travel on the adjuster.

 

L

Lee_D

Guest

• Sep 9, 2004

• #3

"Mr.Nice." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...

> I did notice on the side I managed to get off that there was alot of
> meat on the shoes yet the cams were very near their limits of travel
> before the shoes touched the drum, could the drums be that worn on a
> 20-year-old land rover?
> (big 'ammer standing by)

Yes...

<reach for safety goggles>

 

D

David G. Bell

Guest

• Sep 9, 2004

• #4

On Thursday, in article
<[email protected]>
[email protected] "Mr.Nice." wrote:

> I'm not keen on spraying wd40 around the place as it'll mess with the
> brake shoes won't it? and where to I spray it anyway? what is actually
> stuck on the drum? is it the inner face of the drum held fast against
> the hub-bit-thing-wot-the-wheel-bolts-to?

Think of the drum as analogous to a coffee mug. The shoes does not (and
cannot) come right to the rim. As the drum wears a ridge will develop,
and the shoe, when the adjuster is properly set, can hook behind this
ridge.

There can be a little corrosion helping the rum stick to the hub.

Some drum brakes have an extra hole in the drum, threaded to take a bolt
that will push the drum away from the hub.


Be careful of any brake dust. Wear a dust-mask.

--
David G. Bell -- SF Fan, Filker, and Punslinger.

"History shows that the Singularity started when Sir Tim Berners-Lee
was bitten by a radioactive spider."

 

D

Dave Reynolds

Guest

• Sep 9, 2004

• #5

Mr.Nice. <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Twas Wed, 08 Sep 2004 22:16:06 +0100 when Austin Shackles
> <[email protected]> put finger to keyboard producing:
>
>
> >pounding on 'em with a big (approx 3lb) hammer usually works in the end.
> >don't try and hit the rim in an "off-wards" direction though, around the
> >edge, as yer apt to break it. Mostly I hit on ther flat part of the drum
> >(outside where the shoes act on it) and rotate it the while, so you're
> >applying the hammer radially towards the hub centre. If it really won't
> >shift, buy a new drum and hit it with a *really* big hammer so as to brake
> >the old one. New drums are pretty cheap ISTR, and the chances are that old
> >ones are quite worn anyway - before I changed 'em, the ones on my old SII
> >were that worn that you could only use about half the lining thickness
> >before running out of travel on the adjuster.
>
> I did notice on the side I managed to get off that there was alot of
> meat on the shoes yet the cams were very near their limits of travel
> before the shoes touched the drum, could the drums be that worn on a
> 20-year-old land rover?
> (big 'ammer standing by)
>
>
> Regards.
> Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.)
> --
>
Might well be that your drums are worn and maybe ovalised (if there's
such a word). If you can't get the bugger off then refit a couple of
nuts to protect the threads and attempt to turn the drum with a bar to
a 'free' position then the drum should come off easier. They're a pain
to centralise. I found that pumping the brakes to centre the shoes
works if you do it and leave it for a bit. I went to the pub and
things seemed alot better then!

Dave

 

A

Austin Shackles

Guest

• Sep 9, 2004

• #6

On or around Thu, 09 Sep 2004 17:49:59 +0100 (BST),
[email protected] ("David G. Bell") enlightened us thusly:

>On Thursday, in article
> <[email protected]>
> [email protected] "Mr.Nice." wrote:
>
>> I'm not keen on spraying wd40 around the place as it'll mess with the
>> brake shoes won't it? and where to I spray it anyway? what is actually
>> stuck on the drum? is it the inner face of the drum held fast against
>> the hub-bit-thing-wot-the-wheel-bolts-to?
>
>Think of the drum as analogous to a coffee mug. The shoes does not (and
>cannot) come right to the rim. As the drum wears a ridge will develop,
>and the shoe, when the adjuster is properly set, can hook behind this
>ridge.
>
>There can be a little corrosion helping the rum stick to the hub.
>
>Some drum brakes have an extra hole in the drum, threaded to take a bolt
>that will push the drum away from the hub.
>

they do indeed stick in the middle, sometimes very hard - it depends on when
(whether) it's been taken off. I had one on an SIII I was working on that
need a hell of a lot of pounding to loosen it. If you find a bolt to fit
the threaded hole (and from memory, no it's not the same as the retaining
screw) then you can wind that in tight first before hammering. I fit
doesn't shift, leave the bolt wound in, and then hammer. Don;t however
shear the bolt off in the hole.

 

W

William MacLeod

Guest

• Sep 9, 2004

• #7

Mr.Nice. wrote:

> My drums have this extra threaded hole, I tried screwing the little
> screw that holds the drum on into this threaded hole but the threads
> are either very worn or bigger, I'll try a selection of bolts in the
> threaded hole next time.

I think it's a 3/8th" whitworth thread or something equally odd. I always
keep one in each vehicle, and one in the garage on the "special LR tools"
shelf.

Regards

William MacLeod

 

W

William MacLeod

Guest

• Sep 10, 2004

• #8

Mr.Nice. wrote:

> well I don't have one of those but I'll try a metric thing as I have a
> few of those, M6 or M8 maybe.

Cheaper in the long run getting the right thing. With the right one you can
get a lot of pressure put in the right place, with the wrong one you strip
the thread.....

Regards

William MacLeod

 

A

Austin Shackles

Guest

• Sep 10, 2004

• #9

On or around Fri, 10 Sep 2004 17:36:49 +0100, Mr.Nice.
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>Twas Fri, 10 Sep 2004 13:02:32 GMT when William MacLeod
><[email protected]> put finger to keyboard producing:
>
>>Mr.Nice. wrote:
>>
>>> well I don't have one of those but I'll try a metric thing as I have a
>>> few of those, M6 or M8 maybe.
>>
>>Cheaper in the long run getting the right thing. With the right one you can
>>get a lot of pressure put in the right place, with the wrong one you strip
>>the thread.....
>>
>>Regards
>>
>>William MacLeod
>
>the voice of reason scuppers my plans again...
>where's that ruddy big 'ammer.....

I think he's right about the 3/8 thread, although it might not be whit,
could be UNC. ISTR trying an M10 in it, and it not fitting, then resorting
to the big hammer anyway. What vintage is the vehicle again? ISTR only SI
and early SII have a significant amount of whitworth/BSF on 'em, although
there are always exceptions.

 

L

Lee_D

Guest

• Sep 10, 2004

• #10

"Mr.Nice." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...


In that case grind the remians of the adjuster off.. hammer throught the
remains though the backplate with old screw..6 inch nail etc etc.. You've
got to do it anyway.

Now should be no pressure from adjusters broken or otherwise. Shoes **
should ** ease off and allow drum removal.

Lee D

 

B

Badger

Guest

• Sep 10, 2004

• #11

"Austin Shackles" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On or around Fri, 10 Sep 2004 17:36:49 +0100, Mr.Nice.
> <[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
>
> >Twas Fri, 10 Sep 2004 13:02:32 GMT when William MacLeod
> ><[email protected]> put finger to keyboard producing:
> >
> >>Mr.Nice. wrote:
> >>
> >>> well I don't have one of those but I'll try a metric thing as I have a
> >>> few of those, M6 or M8 maybe.
> >>
> >>Cheaper in the long run getting the right thing. With the right one you
can
> >>get a lot of pressure put in the right place, with the wrong one you
strip
> >>the thread.....
> >>
> >>Regards
> >>
> >>William MacLeod
> >
> >the voice of reason scuppers my plans again...
> >where's that ruddy big 'ammer.....
>
> I think he's right about the 3/8 thread, although it might not be whit,
> could be UNC. ISTR trying an M10 in it, and it not fitting, then
resorting
> to the big hammer anyway. What vintage is the vehicle again? ISTR only
SI
> and early SII have a significant amount of whitworth/BSF on 'em, although
> there are always exceptions.
>
My 110 is UNC, FWIW.

--
Badger.
B.H.Engineering,
Rover V8 engine specialists.

now live but still under construction,
www.bhengineering.co.uk
www.roverv8engines.com
www.roverv8engines.co.uk

 

A

Austin Shackles

Guest

• Sep 10, 2004

• #12

On or around Fri, 10 Sep 2004 19:02:37 +0100, Mr.Nice.
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>
>1984 110

probably a UNC then. if you had a V8 you could nick one from the engine
temporarily...

 

R

Richard Brookman

Guest

• Sep 10, 2004

• #13

William MacLeod wrote:
> Mr.Nice. wrote:
>
>> well I don't have one of those but I'll try a metric thing as I have
>> a few of those, M6 or M8 maybe.
>
> Cheaper in the long run getting the right thing. With the right one
> you can get a lot of pressure put in the right place, with the wrong
> one you strip the thread.....
>
> Regards
>
> William MacLeod

I made one up using the threaded bar available in lengths from Do It All
(they stopped doing it a couple of years ago) with two nuts tightened on
against each other to turn it. Perfect fit, but I dunno what the thread is.
About 3/8, and pretty coarse pitch. Possible B&Q or someone still do it?

--

Rich

Series 2a
RR 4.6
V8 trialler
dog, wife, kids, whatever

 

A

Austin Shackles

Guest

• Sep 11, 2004

• #14

On or around Fri, 10 Sep 2004 19:30:30 +0000 (UTC), "Richard Brookman"
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>I made one up using the threaded bar available in lengths from Do It All
>(they stopped doing it a couple of years ago) with two nuts tightened on
>against each other to turn it. Perfect fit, but I dunno what the thread is.
>About 3/8, and pretty coarse pitch. Possible B&Q or someone still do it?

for no reason that I can determine, those threaded rods are either metric or
whitworth.

however, and without looking it up, I suspect the 3/8 whit and 3/8 UNC may
only differ in the thread angles. ICBW, though, I have a list somewhere but
ICBA to hunt it this morning.

 

E

EMB

Guest

• Sep 11, 2004

• #15

Austin Shackles wrote:

> however, and without looking it up, I suspect the 3/8 whit and 3/8 UNC may
> only differ in the thread angles.

Same diamater, same root diameter, same thread pitch (up to 1/2"), andle
is 55 deg for Whitworth and 60 deg for UNC, so UNC and Whtworth are
interchangeable for all intents and purposes.

Also in an emergency M8x1.25 and 5/16" UNC are interchangeable if you
have no other options.

--
EMB
change two to number to reply
---------------

Old age is the outpatients department for purgatory.

-John Morton