oops - is this rear hub seal

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The Mad Hat Man

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Just changed a prop UJ for MOT and discovered this......
Am I right in saying rear hub seal? and If so - any idiots guides? and No - I aint searched yet - will do if its confirmed.

I have looked at brake master reservoir and it all looks topped up ok - so I dont think its the caliper piston leaking.
 

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Looks like brake fluid. Too clean to have come out of the hub.

Not so. Though it could be brake fluid (easy to confirm it can only leak from pistons or brake pipes?) Robin's disco just did exactly the same and we thought it was brakes. but it wasn't it was hub seal. Turns out the locking washer had only been bent over 1 hub nut and it had loosened up and chewed the seal. Unfortunately the washer had cut a groove in the stub axle. so it was a noo stub axle jobby.

**** easy job though

Remove wheel
Remove brake pads
Remove brake calliper (2 multipoint bolts)
Undo hub nuts.
draw hub off shaft
Remove hub seal
Fit new hub seal
Replace hub
Tighten hub nuts and engage locking washer on both hub nuts.
refit calliper and pads
Refit wheel

Jobs a good un.
 
looks like it could be the hub seals, if it smells like cat pi#s its the seals, if it don't smell of cat pi#s it ya brakes.
mine bust a few weeks ago i renewed the inner and outter seals on both sides of the axle as a matter of cause.
easy job to do but don't do what i did and forget to put the inner oil seal in:eek:
i did realise after doing one side and had to do it all again:eek:
 
Hub seal gets my vote. It might be worth replacing the wheel bearings while you're in there and if the existing ones are still O.K. keep them as emergency spares. Like Redhand said, easy enough job to do. If you replace thebearings make sure you use plenty grease, job shouldn't take more than 45min - an hour if you taking your time. Can be done in 20 min with a capable assistant and the right tools.
 
Just changed a prop UJ for MOT and discovered this......
Am I right in saying rear hub seal? and If so - any idiots guides? and No - I aint searched yet - will do if its confirmed.

I have looked at brake master reservoir and it all looks topped up ok - so I dont think its the caliper piston leaking.

Thats classic hub seal, take the half shaft out and the nuts off, the caliper will have to come off and the bolts can be a bitch to get out, I had to hammer a socket onto mine, cable tie the caliper onto the spring or you will damage the metal pipe.

Turn the hub over and belt a screwdriver into the side of it and pry it out, lift the bearings out and check they are not pitted also check the track it runs in.

Pack the seal with grease, clean the bit it runs on on the hub with wet and dry to remove any rags or you can tear the seal refiting the hub. See if you can get something the same size as the seal to knock it in failing that big punch and work around the outside evenly. I like to smear hylomar on them before I fit it prevents oil seeping out past the rim and holds it in better.

Lub the axle bit and fit it back on, as you tighten up the first nut rotate the hub to centre it. I take them up firm with the box key and a screwdriver through it, rotate the hub then back the nut off then nip it just enough to take any play out, and a smidgen. Lock washer and outer nut, knock the tab back over the nut, smear of hylomar on halfshaft flange and job done. Caliper back on but dont lube them bolts or they can come loose.
 
Daft, is it 10 or 24 spline axle???

If its 24 spline, I'm surprised to see the leak down the front of the disc as the seal is at the rear, so oil/grease gets down the rear face of the disc.

My 10 spline rear axle (from a RRC) has a second seal at the front to prevent oil entering the bearings, but still dont see how oil is getting between disc and hub like you've got
 
Trust me to have summat different.
I think what is happening is it is leaking out of the rear of the hub, being spin out by centrifugal force out to the edges of the disc - the inboard pad is then collecting that and it is also working its way around the outside of the disc to the front.

mind yu - just studying the pics - that looks like oil smear tracking away from the inner piston area. :confused:

here are sum more pics..... dunno if that makes it any clearer or worse?
 

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and a few more to prove it.
 

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on Piccy 3 of yout last piccy upload, the stub axle is held on by a ring of 8(I think)bolts. When you take teh stub axle off there is a small oil seal which runs on the raised bit of the half shaft. This stops axle oil gettin into the bearings instead of just grease.

Wondered if that may be the root cause of your probs
 
Axle breather is clear - first thing i checked.

fook - yu got me in a quandry now - change it or leave it :confused:
there was no grease in bearings that i cud see - not sure about oil as oil appeared to be everywhere.
I spose its not a difficult job to do it again - just messy.:eek:
 
Reet yu clever clogs :praise:

I got two manwells - one is the Rave for Disco1 and tother is proper LR workshop manwell.
here are pages from each - one shows an outer oil seal and one dont. Can anyone explain why?
is one right and one wrong - which is correct?
 

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Last edited:
the second one is the same as mine, mine has the inner and outter oil seal.
mine is a 97 r reg,
when mine went it was the inner seal that had split.
if this helps i don't know, but i just went to the local indy and got the full axle kit for both sides, it cost me 65 quid for genuine landy parts,
and i don't have a leak now:D
 
the second one is the same as mine, mine has the inner and outter oil seal.
mine is a 97 r reg,
when mine went it was the inner seal that had split.
if this helps i don't know, but i just went to the local indy and got the full axle kit for both sides, it cost me 65 quid for genuine landy parts,
and i don't have a leak now:D

FFs it cost me 4 quid for a seal from landie dealer, did one side last year ****ing like mads and when changing my discs this year changed the other side coz it looked dodgy.
 
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