Disco 2 discovery td5 rear hub leaking

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Kaijun

Active Member
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Location
Berkshire, U. K.
When I was replacing the rear brake pads yesterday, I found my o/s hub was wet and some black grease on the pad but the caliper was dry. Does it mean the rear hub or its O-ring seal needs replaced, or leak from axis oil? please see attached pics. Thanks! IMG_2537.jpeg IMG_2535.jpeg IMG_2534.jpeg
 
In my case I had fitted a new hub some time before and for some reason it started to leak. I changed the hub for another reason, (It was originally a new front hub and I then needed one so I put it on the front and put an old, but OK, hub back on the back.) And tyhen had no leaks on either end. The front one has a seal in the axle so doesn't need the big thin one.
 
Thank you for your info. If it is grease leak, do I have to replace the hub or simply add general grease to the hub? BTW do you smear copper grease on shaft spline?
 
Kaijun said:
Thank you for your info. If it is grease leak, do I have to replace the hub or simply add general grease to the hub? BTW do you smear copper grease on shaft spline?
Click to expand...
The hubs I have taken off before are very tightly put together and I would not think they would be easy to pack with grease.
If a hub is wearing to the point that grease is needed, it is knackered and you will know this as it will rumble and the three amigos will come on.
I am pretty confident it will just need a new O ring which is cheap and being put back together properly.
We will help if you find hub removal and replacement tricky.
don't forget to order a new hub nut as well as an O ring cos it will need staking.
No harm in putting copper grease on the shaft spline.:)
Good luck.
 
Stanleysteamer said:
The hubs I have taken off before are very tightly put together and I would not think they would be easy to pack with grease.
If a hub is wearing to the point that grease is needed, it is knackered and you will know this as it will rumble and the three amigos will come on.
I am pretty confident it will just need a new O ring which is cheap and being put back together properly.
We will help if you find hub removal and replacement tricky.
don't forget to order a new hub nut as well as an O ring cos it will need staking.
No harm in putting copper grease on the shaft spline.:)
Good luck.
Click to expand...
Thanks! I just found another thread says loctite 648 should be used on shaft spline, it is bonding other than lubricating. https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/discovery-2-2004-td5-landmark-rear-hub-nut-torque.348751/
 
Kaijun said:
Thanks! I just found another thread says loctite 648 should be used on shaft spline, it is bonding other than lubricating. https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/discovery-2-2004-td5-landmark-rear-hub-nut-torque.348751/
Click to expand...
Read the thread to the end!!!
You will see both my and James Martin's comments on there! and what JM don't know about LRs ain't worth knowing.
And no you don't really need locktite but you DO really need to stake the nut properly.
This gives you full info on how to do it up without a hugely expensive torque wrench, I even gave how to do the maths. :rolleyes:
 
Stanleysteamer said:
So you needed a new hub then anyway. did the three amigos come up too?
Click to expand...
I did need a new hub yes as I had noticed the rumble and knowing about the leak too..... And 3 amigos no, I was plagued with it from the day I brought it to the day I parked it up, I did however manage to get most of the way to Barmouth once before they came on :rolleyes:
 
I can undo all bolts but abs sensor one, I used 3/16 Allen key, it slipped, is there a special tool to undo it? It seems possible to slide out the hub without removing slack abs wire or by unplugging its other end.3EAAFE70-6852-47F4-A063-FFBA10825333.jpeg
 
Kaijun said:
I can undo all bolts but abs sensor one, I used 3/16 Allen key, it slipped, is there a special tool to undo it? It seems possible to slide out the hub without removing slack abs wire or by unplugging its other end.View attachment 278206
Click to expand...
DON'T undo the sensor, keep it attached. It is so sensitive to the gap.....
If you get a new hub it will come with the sensor attached, fit the hub without removing the sensor, to preserve the gap between it and the reluctor ring.
And in that case I suppose it doesn't matter if you take the sensor off the old one, as long as you remove it from the rest of the loom.
But if you are just going to fit a new seal, unplug the sensor from the loom and disengage it from all the clips etc, so that you can fit a new seal, then put it all back together again without disturbing the sensor.
 
Kaijun said:
Thanks Stanley! I am not sure if you have undone and done 1-1/4" hub nut using 1/2" hex drive 30" breaker. I found this one can do max 512NM https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/153188105713?epid=15021803731&hash=item23aab8fdf1:g:SrsAAOSwvu1bo4-E&amdata=enc:AQAHAAAA8DVIKUYQYWX828EQCMqOSAVCbUyU3kTuYsslDdLNlfyCniRB8033+STePRw5C8sYFp5Owkf5g1cEvpKaXteWucPdT4Cc1MNzUTRYI9/hv4XZ/gcNPykbP/xIPOM6XSV+Q5ccHTzpTNvj/ktnG6UTYQnG5y9mkJE/8mLQf6C/uMpQ840eLC/Sjpn8Umk8TLUEJ9ul2aEew4MBKqQK7WpZDI/2k2rk8dPSGj18AYQCJCxdMastHJgQYfjVHyG4mI9VY0jhy03y/yLehecu6CmvaeLTsyD51EktPQLSDEQX4XiYDbyuHTjt+hTVWoew23uUug==|tkp:Bk9SR4CGuZWOYQ
490NM is equal to 50KGM, I can stand at 0.625m (24.6") point with 80KG.
Click to expand...
I have undone and done up three out of the 4 hubs on my TD5.
Doing them up to the correct torque using one's body weight is the way many of us do it.
BUT undoing one that has been done up for years can take considerably MORE torque. The front nearside took a scaffold bar and still lots of weight on it. I am amazed that my 1/2" breaker bar didn't break at the connection to the socket. It's a Draper Expert one.
 
I just tried undoing the nut with 30” breaker bar, I think it is over 490nm. But it was too stubborn to loosen it even if I jumped up and down on the breaker bar. Any suggestions? like heating up it with torch and hammering it around, not sure if it would damage drive shaft or hub.
 
If you don't have one, you could see if a friendly local garage could use their impact gun to loosen it then do it up enough to get you home. Leave the centre cap out for ease of access.
Where abouts in the UK are you? There may be someone near that could help.
Griff
 
it is unstaked off course isnt it????
Get a bigger bar?:).

You could try jacking it too tension it and give the socket a wack with landy number 1 tool:D.

J
 
Kaijun said:
I just tried undoing the nut with 30” breaker bar, I think it is over 490nm. But it was too stubborn to loosen it even if I jumped up and down on the breaker bar. Any suggestions? like heating up it with torch and hammering it around, not sure if it would damage drive shaft or hub.
Click to expand...
You need to use the Landy's weight, or a very long extension as I had to. But if you don't have a scaffold bar to hand, here are a few suggestions.
Put the breaker bar and socket on the nut hanging down to the left, OOOPS! EDIT TO THE RIGHT, so that the end of the bar is near the ground, but with enough room to get a jack underneath it, then simply jack the bar up. It'll undo before it lifts the car up.
Or ensure it is in P or in gear, handbrake fully on and preferably get someone to ram the foot brake to the floor. Jack the car up so the wheel is off the ground. Rest the end of the breaker bar on an axle stand. Then lower the car.
I would seriously not go anywhere near it with heat.
 
Last edited:
Kaijun said:
Thanks! Fortunately a builder nearby gave me 2 meters scaffold to make it. I heard a break noise and thought my breaker bar was broken. However it is still intact:D
Click to expand...
2 metres????
You were lucky, mine had to be much longer than that!!
But still you did it.
Well done!:):):):):)
 
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