Loss of power & slight misfire

Hi all,
Got a mystery to me, 2007 td4. Starts feeling like starving of fuel when under fairly heavy load (but still normal driving - it's worse driving hard) loses power quickly but gradually and starts to slightly 'miss', like a damp distributor in the old days.

Had a new
crank sensor,
fuel filter,
suction control valve,
And an Injector that was leaking badly to return.

Blocked off egr, no better.

Had a P0045-19 throughout all of this but turbo appears to be reacting to commands and isn't sticky in operation.
Boost is great, goes like a rocket till it doesn't.

Had diag on it for road tests and when the problem occurs the boost and the rail pressure decline together as the power drops in an equal arc on graphs. Foot held hard down.

The code says turbo but the fault feels fuel starvy as it even cuts down to a stall if you keep your foot down when driving on the flat.

Any magic words to soothe my troubles soul?
Phil

Misfiring under load is often down to an injector at the end of its life. These injectors have a life of about 100k miles, but some fail early. The hard part is identifying the failing injector as they don't throw a code unless the piezo stack fails, which isn't often.
I've also got an occasional misfire over 2k RPM at more than about 50% throttle, but it's impossible identifying without substitution with a new one, which I've not got round to doing yet.

Nodge68 said:

Misfiring under load is often down to an injector at the end of its life. These injectors have a life of about 100k miles, but some fail early. The hard part is identifying the failing injector as they don't throw a code unless the piezo stack fails, which isn't often.
I've also got an occasional misfire over 2k RPM at more than about 50% throttle, but it's impossible identifying without substitution with a new one, which I've not got round to doing yet.

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Thanks, it's the drawing it to stall thats got me. I'd love a donor to swap bits down.

range rover wagon said:

Maybe you should buy a discovery which is more reliable in the 200/300 TDI set up than any Freelander will ever be.
Freelanders are junk and need to be scrapped.
I'll bet you along with your misfire the car is very rusty

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And where would you come to all those conclusions?

I am going to report you as the last goings on spike my senses towards you not being really genuine.

J

range rover wagon said:

They are facts from reliability figures on land rover website.
The Freelander was the most unreliable vehicle they produced

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Well excuse me but I didn’t see an introduction post (may have missed it) and I also don’t see pics of yours, so right now I am very sceptical of your views and your advise to genuine new members.

J

marjon said:

Well excuse me but I didn’t see an introduction post (may have missed it) and I also don’t see pics of yours, so right now I am very sceptical of your views and your advise to genuine new members.

J

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Thanks Marjon.
I liked how he recommended a 200/300 Discovery and then accused me of having a rusty motor

5psnners said:

Thanks Marjon.
I liked how he recommended a 200/300 Discovery and then accused me of having a rusty motor

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He's a troll, and keeps reappearing with different use names. The mods are on it though, just ignore the drivel. Amusing to say a Freelander is rusty, then claiming the most rust ridden LR ever made a is better vehicle. The D1 literally falls apart if it gets wet, so it's a stupid claim really.
He said the same about my Freelander 2, which made me chuckle. Apparently a Freelander 2 is junk and a car, which is again a dumb comment, especially as the Freelander 2 larger than a D1, just as capable off road, and a thousand times better on road.

Fitted known good hpfp tonight, no improvement.

I've seen turbo actuators advertised, but is it worth fitting separately if the turbo and vanes appear ok, or is it best complete turbo unit.

Ta

Unless you have diagnostic equipment to run all the calibrations needed after replacing anything to do with the fuel injection or air intake path, replacing parts doesn't help, as every change requires a calibration routine be performed.

Nodge68 said:

Unless you have diagnostic equipment to run all the calibrations needed after replacing anything to do with the fuel injection or air intake path, replacing parts doesn't help, as every change requires a calibration routine be performed.

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Thanks, have reset the parameters after scv then again after fuel pump. New injector coded.

I know its a messy labour ass job and back breaking knuckle grazing finger squeezing fingertip using breath holding hunchback producing party, but on my 99 p38a 2.5d once a year around this cold season I replace all fuel injector run off lines, remove intake parts, and inlet manifold ( plastic) and get rid of all the massive amount of black sludge build up from the EGR, that helps for a while. My motor starts to misfire slightly during acceleration and its got to be a fuel issue. Usually my run off lines are a culprit. Already replaced the no.4 injector with that expensive wire Attached. All these claims of 30mpg ! I wish. I'm almost paying a quid a mile here wtf!

Hi 5psnners.
Any news on this if you found the solution ? if so please do let us know.