Disco 2 Td5 no power, changed loads and at a loss.

sierrafery said:

Straight from the battery cos that's what it gest anyway through the fuse, the ECU has a limiter inside

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Also I just had a set of alloys delivered with 235 70 r16 tyres on (standard disco 2 size?) and it's the same with them on so the bigger tyres are ruled out too.

sierrafery said:

Then this is ruled out, don't bother with it anymore, unfortunately nanocom is mixing up things here while the description from the WSM has some innacuracy too... i'm outof ideas completely now with your problem, let me know if you find the real issue or how you fixed it. Good luck...if i was you i'd go for a remap.

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Just had a pressure gauge delivered and assuming there no leaks in the 4 adapter I had to use to fit the damn thing, it measures 3.6 bar which rises to about 4 bar under boost with it peaking at about 5bar under maximum boost and very high revs. However the pickup is very slow (due to the 3.6bar?) and even if I ride 4th gear all the way up to like 60 and then switch to 5th she just dies. And fuel pressure drops back down to 3.6bar.
On a side note last night when I was under the bonnet checking everything with the ignition on and the fuel pump running I noticed a hissing sound and the occasional gurgle from around the fuel pressure regulator, which seems to dissappear after a while or when started. But there's no leaks could this be related or is that just from the air in the fuel system that's causing my cold start problem?

Edit: I fitted the gauge when the fuel temp sensor goes? (on the regulator)
Edit: just stuck my hand down and can feel the smallest amount of fuel on one of the adaptors so down know how much that would have affected the readings.

CallumP227 said:

Just had a pressure gauge delivered and assuming there no leaks in the 4 adapter I had to use to fit the damn thing, it measures 3.6 bar which rises to about 4 bar under boost with it peaking at about 5bar under maximum boost and very high revs. However the pickup is very slow (due to the 3.6bar?) and even if I ride 4th gear all the way up to like 60 and then switch to 5th she just dies. And fuel pressure drops back down to 3.6bar.
On a side note last night when I was under the bonnet checking everything with the ignition on and the fuel pump running I noticed a hissing sound and the occasional gurgle from around the fuel pressure regulator, which seems to dissappear after a while or when started. But there's no leaks could this be related or is that just from the air in the fuel system that's causing my cold start problem?

Edit: I fitted the gauge when the fuel temp sensor goes? (on the regulator)
Edit: just stuck my hand down and can feel the smallest amount of fuel one of the adaptors so down know how much that would have affected the readings.

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If you can hear a hissing noise it is probably air-related, so maybe air is getting sucked in. I'd take it off clean everything up and refit it with new washers/O rings and keep listening. Maybe with a wet finger held near it to detect air movement.

Do you have a button on your fuel pressure tester, to relieve the pressure after a test. Press that whilst the fuel pump is running, and check if the fuel is bubbly or foamy, whilst discharging it into a container...

tilly2 said:

Do you have a button on your fuel pressure tester, to relieve the pressure after a test. Press that whilst the fuel pump is running, and check if the fuel is bubbly or foamy, whilst discharging it into a container...

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Just did that and it looks fine, was foamy when I first pushed the button but once flowing it was fine.

CallumP227 said:

Edit: I fitted the gauge when the fuel temp sensor goes? (on the regulator)
Edit: just stuck my hand down and can feel the smallest amount of fuel on one of the adaptors so down know how much that would have affected the readings.

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so was the FT sensor still connected and in that area? if it was unplugged the management goes to default ... afaik in that port it should be steady 4 bar cos it's the ''regulated'' side of the FPR but even a 3.6 bar or on default it should not die like that, maybe we should go back to the roots, the question is that this loss of power appeard just like that out of the blue while before that the engine ran well or what's the exact history of this symptom? didnt you do anything to disturb the timing?

It was without the sensor plugged it but I'll plug it in and go for another drive now.

Just tried it and no different. Heres a clip of the pressure, changed to 5th and started dying around 3:54 but pressure looked pretty good that time. Although it had gone up to 5 bar a few times.

IMO the pressure is ruled out too cos it's not supposed to die as long as it doesnt drop below 2 bar... ai this point after so many discussions and the management seems to work as well i have to insist so i say again:

sierrafery said:

maybe we should go back to the roots, the question is that this loss of power appeard just like that out of the blue while before that the engine ran well or what's the exact history of this symptom? didnt you do anything to disturb the timing?

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I'd was stood for a long time before I got it but it was fine when I went and got it and after using it daily for a week or so and one day I got in it and it was like this. I'm gonna ripp the FPR back off as I have another new gasket here anyway and put some hylomar on it and leave it for a day or so to set to hopefully eliminate the cold start issue,
I'll get it mapped and the end of the month and see if anything fails after that as hopefully the added strain from a remap will cause premature failure and whatever is failing and make it obvious. And if not at least it will hopefully have enough extra power to be livable with.

Sounds like a good plan as the electrical, fuel delivery and management were all ruled out IMO, i've heard about cases when the cam timing was out cos the sprocket got loose and moved a bit then the engine started to run like sh*t but i'm quite dumb when it comes to pure mechanics

sierrafery said:

Sounds like a good plan as the electrical, fuel delivery and management were all ruled out IMO, i've heard about cases when the cam timing was out cos the sprocket got loose and moved a bit then the engine started to run like sh*t but i'm quite dumb when it comes to pure mechanics

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I just found an old post on a forum with what seems to be the same problem as mine and two people commented saying they had similar problems, one needed the 'euis' changing whatever they are and the other said the 'market settings' were wrong and he went to the dealership to have it corrected along with the appropriate fuel map.
Just wondering if you could shed some light on what they mean by 'euis' or market settings.
Thanks.

CallumP227 said:

Just wondering if you could shed some light on what they mean by 'euis' or market settings.

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I said once in this whole discossion that it's possible to have "tired" injectors, EUI = electronic unit injector, that market setting thing IMO is b00lox, itbhas to do only with instrument pack warnings, nothing to do with how the engine is running

sierrafery said:

I said once in this whole discossion that it's possible to have "tired" injectors, EUI = electronic unit injector, that market setting thing IMO is b00lox, itbhas to do only with instrument pack warnings, nothing to do with how the engine is running

View attachment 307773

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Ah ok. Thanks again for that just trying to find some more straws to clutch at before It gets mapped.

Why is the fuel pressure rising when you boost it up? Fuel pressure is mechanically controlled and should remain constant or worst case drop if you have a crap pump and high fuel demand.

What could cause the fuel pressure to rise? Compression pressure leaking in to fuel rail?