FL2 2008 TD2,2 automatic shaking and less power

Hello. Can anyone help solve this mystery? My freelander 2,2 2008 automatic is shaking,on acceleration, almost jumping (kind of like it's hitting those things on the highway that prevent people from falling asleep while driving). It also has loss of power, it's not in a limp mode, just not accelerating normally, doesn't have it's full power. It's been over a month now. Went to two different mechanics and still not fixed. Both claimed its torque converter. So, I changed the torque converter, something in the gearbox, throttle valve, front differential, driveshaft, intercooler (they found it has a hole) and the issue still remained. Then, checked injectors, also they tried with the other fuel filter and fuel pump, still the same problem. Now, I am sure that half of those things they said they did is just lies because they wanted to buy more time considering the fact I already payed a ton of money and the car was still broken. I just dont trust those people know what they are doing any more and Im running out of options. So if anyone please has any idea what can cause this, it could end up helping me end this agony. So, car shaking on acceleration, especially going uphill, doesnt have enough power (almost like turbo not kicking in) and higher fuel consumption than usual. And the mechanic swears it can not be the torque converter or driveshaft

I'd say you need to see live data for the turbo. Something like boost commanded and actual boost pressure. Actual should be at least the same as commanded. Also could look at fuel pressure, post values for a check.
Cheap elm237 dongle and phone should read ok.

J_D said:

I'd say you need to see live data for the turbo. Something like boost commanded and actual boost pressure. Actual should be at least the same as commanded. Also could look at fuel pressure, post values for a check.
Cheap elm237 dongle and phone should read ok.

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Thank you for your suggestions. Im going today to the mechanic. Told him to give me my car back fixed or not. I'll try checking those things. Do you think it can be shaking like this from turbo? Or fuel related problem? Shaking(jumping) starts around 60 km/h

Only takes a small leak in turbo to cause issues. I think there is a weak point where the plastic pipework can leak.
Do you get any smoke from the exhaust, black or grey.
Black smoke would lead me towards turbo, grey white is unburnt fuel (faulty injector or not firing on cylinder correct). No smoke and I'd consider fuel pressure.
Best bet is live diagnostic and post results.

When was the fuel filter last changed, and if in the last 12-15months was a good one used, cheap after market fuel filter break down quick.
1

2

Has the throttle been checked for it's teeth stripping, they only have plastic cogs.
3

4

Have all intercooler pipes/hoses been checked, what mileage is your FL2.

Thank you all so much for your advice! I have a new development. The loss of power was a bad wire or connector somewhere, I didn't remember what did the mechanic say, but I'll ask him again. Unfortunately, it looks like it was an unrelated issue to shaking. He took the cardan off and gave it to a specialist to check if something's wrong with it. Then, he drove the car without a cardan and there was NO SHAKING. When he put it back, the car is shaking AGAIN. Does anyone have an idea why?

may be a red herring, but i also have a jag s type v6 td auto. had a very similar shake. i went to a land rover jag specialist in netley near southampton, looking to buy a gearbox mounting as i suspected that was the fault. But straight away they said gearbox. and sold me two botlles of additive for the gearbox.
thought it was not the solution, but got home to france got the car on my lift, engie running and poured in the bottles. Drove up the road after 500m the shaking stopped, and has never come back 30k miles ago.
Never know it might help

frenchdave said:

may be a red herring, but i also have a jag s type v6 td auto. had a very similar shake. i went to a land rover jag specialist in netley near southampton, looking to buy a gearbox mounting as i suspected that was the fault. But straight away they said gearbox. and sold me two botlles of additive for the gearbox.
thought it was not the solution, but got home to france got the car on my lift, engie running and poured in the bottles. Drove up the road after 500m the shaking stopped, and has never come back 30k miles ago.
Never know it might help

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Had the same with a Ford ranger auto box low fluid or needing to be changed

I Wish it was that simple.. However, the first mechanic did put the aditive in the gearbox and no luck. The second mechanic claimed that the first one is stupid. And then, he also didnt know what's wrong.. Now Im waiting for him to take the converter and dif and other things he changed off, to check if he made some mistake..

sanchi said:

Thank you all so much for your advice! I have a new development. The loss of power was a bad wire or connector somewhere, I didn't remember what did the mechanic say, but I'll ask him again. Unfortunately, it looks like it was an unrelated issue to shaking. He took the cardan off and gave it to a specialist to check if something's wrong with it. Then, he drove the car without a cardan and there was NO SHAKING. When he put it back, the car is shaking AGAIN. Does anyone have an idea why?

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What is a cardan ? if it stopped when the part was removed then it stands a chance that is the problem.

Arctic2 said:

What is a cardan ? if it stopped when the part was removed then it stands a chance that is the problem.

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I believe he means the propshaft.

I'm back with some news. Today I finally got the car back. Untill today the mechanic has been fixing the gearbox, front differential, cardan - propshaft (thanks for giving me the correct name) and whi knows what else, I stopped believing in him a while ago, but because he took my money didn't have a better option. However, today he realised it's probably the injectors who created this mess and now the car is working and not shaking. I asked why was the car then not shaking without the propshaft, he said because it wasn't under too much load. I am clearly not an expert on cars, so I just had to take his word for it.
I drove the car home, in the beginning it seemed all great, but I still have a feeling it isn't at it's old power and somewhere near my house, going uphill, it made two short cuts while accelerating. Is it possible now the ECU is having issues with the injectors? I don't even know if he only cleaned mine, or put other ones. He just didn't give me a straight answer and I was also tired of listening to all the stories.
I already spoke to another mechanic who is willing to take a look. And I luckily have an excellent electronics expert who I'm planning to call tomorrow.
I will keep giving updates, in the meantime if anyone has any advice, I'll be happy to listen

Sanchi.
I think the only best advise anyone can give you at the moment is under no circumstances let the above mechanic ever touch your car again, sounds like he is a chancer, you need to get a good quality diagnosis on the FL and go from there, if he has fitted new injectors then they need coding to the car.

My shaking was all down to one or more seized brake calipers. Would only shake on the motorway when they over heated