Loss of power and excessive smoke

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K

Kevm

Active Member
Posts
181
Location
Gainsborough
Driving down dual carriageway this morning with no issues, came to some stationery traffic and noticed a bit of a vibration through wheel and car, went to pull away and loss of power and extreme smoke billowing out of back.
Luckily next to junction so pulled off and extreme vibration through car and even worse smoke.
Turned engine off but it kept running, however did stall when I whacked it back into drive.

Got recovery home, he suggested possible turbo failure.

Any thoughts before I skip it ?
 
Check of excessive oil in the boost hoses. If so then it's possibly the turbo at fault.
If you don't want to fix it, sell it as spares or repairs, as the TD4 facelift will still get good money even if faulty.
 
The pipe coming from the turbo to the intercooler if soaking with oil......I guess its time to look at the turbo.

Not the easiest place to get to.....:(
 
S
Kevm said:
The pipe coming from the turbo to the intercooler if soaking with oil......I guess its time to look at the turbo.

Not the easiest place to get to.....:(
Click to expand...
Sounds like the turbo seal has failed. A new turbo rotary assembly isn't too expensive, and it's not that difficult to do, although it's an under the car job, so stout supports are needed for safety.
 
I have been under it before when I changed the solenoid in the Auto box.....have stands and trolley jack.

I know the turbo has an oil connection is it likely to pee out....should I drain the oil first...and is there a coolant connection as well ?
 
Kevm said:
I have been under it before when I changed the solenoid in the Auto box.....have stands and trolley jack.

I know the turbo has an oil connection is it likely to pee out....should I drain the oil first...and is there a coolant connection as well ?
Click to expand...
It's always worth replacing the engine oil just prior to replacing the turbo, so it gets fresh oil quickly. Don't replace the turbo before new oil, or the bearings run dry until oil pressure is built up.

You won't loose much new oil though, just what is in the pressure line.
 
Took the under tray off......how in the name of god are you supposed to get to that turbo.....can hardly even see it ?

:confused:
 
Giving it a go with the IRD still in place ( I am a coward )

Got the air inlet to the turbo off and a load of oil came out of the turbo.....I am guessing thats not good
 
Kevm said:
Giving it a go with the IRD still in place ( I am a coward )

Got the air inlet to the turbo off and a load of oil came out of the turbo.....I am guessing thats not good
Click to expand...
Take the IRD off.

It'll give you loads of practice at undoing bolts, which will come in handy when you eventually find the turbo hidden the other side of it :)
 
Kevm said:
How complicated is to take off, from underneath on axle stands ?
Click to expand...
Complicated enough for me to work around it.
The RH drive shaft needs to come out, so the lower suspension ball joints need popping first.
The gearbox oil needs draining, as the IRD plugs a hole in the side of the box. Then the 4 IRD bolts need removing, one being particularly difficult to get at. Finally the support bracket needs removing, to allow the IRD to be withdrawn from the gearbox.

It'll take more time to remove the IRD, than the increase in time working around it. At least going by how long it took me to remove the IRD last time I did it.
 
Kevm said:
How complicated is to take off, from underneath on axle stands ?
Click to expand...
Its not complicated as such just lots of bolts, the 2 cooler pipes and a drive shaft to pop out (by removing the 2 bolts holding the hub to the shock/strut). Depending on engine you may have to remove the exhaust - I didn't have to on the L Series, but did on the K - dunno about the TD4.

Some say to remove the subframe - but to me that's ridiculous. Well it would have been on the L & K - once again, dunno on the TD4 but I feel it would be just as ridiculous.

All the bolts are easy, including the ones on the strut, but the ones on the prop are torx and the main 2 rear ones on the IRD are cumbersome to get at - I ended up with extension bars on the socket out the drivers wheel arch.

Its also a heavy lump. I use a jack to lower/raise it.

Must admit, I've only ever worked on the IRD from my inspection pit - me in the pit with lots of room to work in on my knees, engine and IRD over the garage floor with not much distance to lower/raise it. Its not to much of a complicated job from the inspection pit - I'd almost prefer to remove the IRD from an inspection pit, than remove the engine undertray on the drive! Must admit, I wouldn't like to do it with the car on axle stands and me on my back - that sounds like hard graft and DIY is supposed to be fun!
 
Hi, when I did my TD4 turbo (on the ground, axle stands etc) I left the IRD in, which like @Nodge68 says it's not worth the extra work involved, getting the rubber hoses off the alloy IRD oil cooler without damaging them (oil cooler pipes & you don't want to be doing that) is tricky, I managed to get one off ok when taking my g/box out last year but slightly crushed the other,see pic otherwise it's fiddly, v.long extension through the n/s wheel arch to get one of the ex. down pipe nuts off, the bracket, all ready mentioned, the plate to access the 3 turbo bolts (make sure you get on the said 3 bolts square with your socket as you don't want to round those off) & the weight of the turbo whilst jiggling it out & back in. Perfectly doable just take your time, oh & clean the oil out of the metal pipe that runs round the back of the eng. & the intercooler rad/hoses. Have fun, all the best.
 

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Have managed to disconnect the air inlet pipe ( fairly easy ) and the outlet pipe (rubber hose came off eventually.

Just trying to get a socket onto the banjo bolt to remove oil inlet then the oil outlet ( when I find it ! )

Then it will be the exhaust connection....which looks like fun....got a couple of 1/2" extensions somewhere
 
Pics of turbo,bracket & pipes that need to be removed.
 

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