Disco 2 Td5 no power, changed loads and at a loss.

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CallumP227

Member
Posts
37
So after scrapping the last disco after losing the will to live trying to find the fault I got a replacement disco this time a 1999 model.
And surprise surprise the landrover curse strikes again.
It's got no power almost like the turbo isn't working but It doesn't smoke and will drive around town fine as long as you don't encounter hills or use 5th gear.
I have replaced the following parts with genuine parts but the problem persists.
Maf sensor
Map sensor
Injector seals
Fuel pressure regulator
Fuel pump.
Intercooler & hoses
I've hooked up a boost gauge at the inlet manifold and it seems to actually make boost upto about 20psi but there's just no power, I have got a second hand turbo to try fitting as the waste gate does seek to occasionaly stick when you move it but I thought I would see if anyone else has any ideas?

Edit: nanocom doesn't show any fault codes and I have bypassed the solonoid between the actuator and airbox but it's still the same.
 
Check that there are 13 visible threads between the waste gate actuator and the lock nut on the rod.
I take it you lubed the wastegate rod at the turbo? not easy I know.
Have you done live data on the Nanocom?
This sounds like it is going into limp mode which it will do if the can holding the wastegate actuator diaphragm becomes detached. Or anything else happens to prevent it operating properly.
In my case it was simply that the two nuts holding the can in place had simply fallen off! Symptoms exactly the same.
If nothing else is obvious then I'd fit the other turbo, not a difficult job, just remember to prime it with oil which ISN'T in the Haynes manual!
 
Stanleysteamer said:
Check that there are 13 visible threads between the waste gate actuator and the lock nut on the rod.
I take it you lubed the wastegate rod at the turbo? not easy I know.
Have you done live data on the Nanocom?
This sounds like it is going into limp mode which it will do if the can holding the wastegate actuator diaphragm becomes detached. Or anything else happens to prevent it operating properly.
In my case it was simply that the two nuts holding the can in place had simply fallen off! Symptoms exactly the same.
If nothing else is obvious then I'd fit the other turbo, not a difficult job, just remember to prime it with oil which ISN'T in the Haynes manual!
Click to expand...
I have had the nanocom on when driving around but nothing is obvious there's 9 threads visable on the rod which I had previously read was withing tolenerence but could be worth trying.
I don't really know what to look for with the nanocom I know the boost air (forgotten the setting name) goes upto 230 kp/h and the ambient air stays around 95-100 kp/h but that's about it.
Not entirely sure what else to look for from the nanocom point of view.
 
Changing parts just like that is not the best way to fix this...did you adjust the injector clearances as in the book after you changed the seals? if you have nanocom record an "inputs fuelling" log on SD card and post it here then we'll see even though if you get 20psi boost/230kp.h manifold pressure it's quite unlikely to be a fuelling or turbo issue.... if the management is OK it can be as simple as a slipping clutch, try to take off on in 3'rd gear like in 1'st, if it moves on without stalling you need a new clutch ....BTW, what dimension tyres you have?
 
Last edited:
Stanleysteamer said:
Check that there are 13 visible threads between the waste gate actuator and the lock nut on the rod.
I take it you lubed the wastegate rod at the turbo? not easy I know.
Have you done live data on the Nanocom?
This sounds like it is going into limp mode which it will do if the can holding the wastegate actuator diaphragm becomes detached. Or anything else happens to prevent it operating properly.
In my case it was simply that the two nuts holding the can in place had simply fallen off! Symptoms exactly the same.
If nothing else is obvious then I'd fit the other turbo, not a difficult job, just remember to prime it with oil which ISN'T in the Haynes manual!
Click to expand...
Just went and changed it to 13-14 visible thread ls depending on what angle you look at it and it made a massive difference down low but still dead once you get up in the rev range if that makes sense, lost my boost gauge mid drive too as it split the pipe and burst it off the fitting.
 
sierrafery said:
Changing parts just like that is not the best way to fix this...did you adjust the injector clearances as in the book after you changed the seals? if you have nanocom record an "inputs fuelling" log on SD card and post it here then we'll see even though if you get 20psi boost/230kp.h manifold pressure it's quite unlikely to be a fuelling or turbo issue.... if the management is OK it can be as simple as a slipping clutch, try to take off on in 3'rd gear like in 1'st, if it moves on without stalling you need a new clutch ....BTW, what dimension tyres you have?
Click to expand...
235 85 16 and and yes the injector clearance were set properly but that should be irrelevant at this point as it was the same before, and I would prefer not to change parts all the time in an endless attempt to find faults but I'm following the advice of the forum.
I have an sd card tell me what to do to record the data and I will go for a spin now. And post it.
 
CallumP227 said:
235 85 16 and and yes the injector clearance were set properly but that should be irrelevant at this point as it was the same before, and I would prefer not to change parts all the time in an endless attempt to find faults but I'm following the advice of the forum.
I have an sd card tell me what to do to record the data and I will go for a spin now. And post it.
Click to expand...
Those tyres are huge for an untuned Eu2 engine and the management is mixed up bad, it might be your main problem

if you had 9 threads left on the wastegate rod and didnt go to overboost it might be a bit underfuelled

as about nanocom, insert the SD card go to "inputs fuelling", click on the card icon at bottom right ,name the file and start recording then save at the end
 
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BTW, you have to drive it so to catch the symptom while nanocom is recording otherwise it's irrelevant but with those huge tyres it will be very hard to figure out things unless there's something very obvious... the file must be converted to excell to be readable
 
Hope this is correct I went for a quick test drive near the end you will hopefully see 4th and 5th just dead with foot to the floor and it just slows down.
Edit: converted it to exel but the website says the extension is not supported.
 
Ok, it's visible when the power drops but not any obvious cause of it cos the readings are showing that most sensors are OK... the only suspect is the air inlet temp(delivered by the MAP/IAT sensor) which drops from 22 to 11 while the engine gets hotter, i've never seen such thing, was it very cold outside? you said you replaced the MAP/IAT sensor, was it new and branded?
 
sierrafery said:
Ok, it's visible when the power drops but not any obvious cause of it cos the readings are showing that most sensors are OK... the only suspect is the air inlet temp(delivered by the MAP/IAT sensor) which drops from 22 to 11 while the engine gets hotter, i've never seen such thing, was it very cold outside? you said you replaced the MAP/IAT sensor, was it new and branded?
Click to expand...
Yeah and it's cold outside, it's snowing here.
 
That IAT reading is still suspect, i'll take a reading from mine tomorrow as it's cold here too(below 0) and compare then we'll see... another thing, disconnect the pipe from the wastegate valve and clog it then see if it goes to overboost or not
 
when you replaced the FPR did you check the mesh filter in the head beneath it? i've seen such symptom when that filter was gunked up but wait untill i see a IAT reading on mine cos i can't understand how it drops so much while the engine gets hotter but i've never checked that reading when it was so cold outside
 
sierrafery said:
when you replaced the FPR did you check the mesh filter in the head beneath it? i've seen such symptom when that filter was gunked up but wait untill i see a IAT reading on mine cos i can't understand how it drops so much while the engine gets hotter but i've never checked that reading when it was so cold outside
Click to expand...
Yeah it was clean, I have also changed the fuel filter and given it a full service.
 
CallumP227 said:

Dropbox

www.dropbox.com www.dropbox.com
Click to expand...
So the IAT shows 22 degs at tickover, then drops as you rev the car and the fan turns faster, bringing in the cold air from the outside?
Correct?
Then stays cool as the engine goes back to tickover, and the fan is still sucking in cold air?
I too will be very interested in all this.
Notice that by the end of your test the engine coolant temp finally got to where it ought to be.
 
In the morning after a night rest watch the ECT, FT and IAT inputs immediately from cold start at idle(no need to record just report), then these readings should be close to each other cos the vehicle is quite equalised wit the ambient temp, i've checked about 10 logs i have from more vehicles and none of them has such IAT behaviour though i think it wasnt so cold outside when all of those files were recorded :oops:
 
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