key code disabled

the ****ing rangerovers gone and done it again,...im absolutley seething to say the least.

whilst awaiting recovery last weekend on the bypass, my battery dies, so unable to use the central locking etc, but i didnt worry coz a quick jump off the van would see it right....or so i thought.

just been to jump it and the alarms blairing out and the message key code disabled comes up on the dash.
ive tried to do the reset on the handle, but theres no beeps, so im guessing the whole original fault was the drivers door handle is bolloxed, but the ****ers at mcdonalds though **** it we'll screw the **** for 1k.

anyone chuck us any hints apart from torching the ****er

ta in advance

mk1astramad said:

, but the ****ers at mcdonalds though **** it we'll screw the **** for 1k.

Click to expand...

Thats alot for a big mac

tint arf,only costs me 20 odd quid wen i tek the kids

when you jumped it did you connect the pos to the battery and neg to body on the p38? if not this could be bad!!!

also if you have entered the wrong code so many times it will usually say key code lockout, wait for 30 mins or more if you can and try again!

put the leads on the battery as normal.
i havent tried the code yet as when i made the first turn for the sequence, there was no bleep...where as there always has been when i tried it last time.

im gonna get the car towed back to the garage and get them to sort it...i paid them to diagnose the fault and fix it, not just charge me for the ****in hell of it!!!

has anyone else had any bad experiance or is it just me??

I assume McDonalds is a Land Rover dealer ? if so there lies your problem. My boy used to work for a main LR dealer and unfortunatly these days technitions that can diagnose a fault are few and far between, common pracitce at his dealership was to swap out the most likely parts until the problem went away at the customers expence. An example, my oldest mate took his DSE in there to get a verdict on a front end rattle. Esitimate came to about £5000 for a new engine. Local specialist replaced the worn front pulley.

Find a specialist.
or look here this may be of interest.

you dont happen to have a code reader do you? if you do give us codes i may be able to help you

mk1astramad said:

put the leads on the battery as normal.
i havent tried the code yet as when i made the first turn for the sequence, there was no bleep...where as there always has been when i tried it last time.

im gonna get the car towed back to the garage and get them to sort it...i paid them to diagnose the fault and fix it, not just charge me for the ****in hell of it!!!

has anyone else had any bad experiance or is it just me??

Click to expand...

You got a petrol or diesel?

If you have a diesel, pos terminal to terminal and neg terminal to terminal should be ok. If you have a petrol, neg needs to be connected to engine bracket or body. If not, you could have bust yer BECM.

What difference petrol or diesel to the way you connect the jumpleads?

Dunno what the difference is. What it says in the manual. Diesel, terminal to terminal, petrol, negative to bracket.

its a diesel that he owns (according to profile info) so it should be fine!


i would look into the door lock mech, its a free (ish) fix if its just a case of cleaning connections or internals!

yup, got a dooozel, so hopefully im ok.

mcdonalds are an indy, so you would expect them to be straight with you and actually know what their doing.

theres a guy round here thats supposedly **** hot on the diagnostics, so im gonna give him a bell 2morro and see if he can come down and flash it see whats going on.

just more money being chucked at the bloody thing.

what are they worth breaking??? thats my next option!!!!!!!

i would try the little cheap options first before considering the demise of the thing, if a major part is required i.e engine, becm gearbox then you have to weigh up cost of cure or replacement of the car!!

ive been through the mill with mine but i'm slowly getting a car that is reliable and good to drive (thats tempted fate) that said, i have the facilities to replace engines/g/boxes etc so its more practical to fix in my case!

Try pressing fob with ignition on.
Secondly sounds like the wires or micro switch in drivers door lock needs looking at- if you had all doors closed and handles pushed right in and it did not take the key code

just fitted the new batteries, buttons and battery holder on the key...should sort that one out.
gonna get a brand new battery 2moz as the one on at the mo is ****ing bolloxed, so thatll be another 100 down the drain.
THEN im gonna have a looksie and see what i can do..if not, then rac are getting called out again and its bein dragged to the garage.
was meant to do it 2 day, but too ****ed from last nite to even think about it, but being carless and using the inlaws to ferry the kids around whilst me n the mrs go in the van is doing my ****ing head in now.