1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.
gavbriggs
Last Activity:
Jan 26, 2016
Joined:
Sep 1, 2008
Posts:
5,861
Likes Received:
11
Trophy Points:
48
Location:
Sheffield uk
Occupation:
Boring

gavbriggs

Well-Known Member, in Sheffield uk

gavbriggs was last seen:
Jan 26, 2016
    1. Frogwell
      Frogwell
      HI Gav, Just tried sending you another private message but the forum said you'd exceeded your quota.

      Thanks for the reply. So is it just a case of bolting the FBH in the engine bay, connecting the existing wiring (is the wiring plug the same on the Rover 75/TD4 Webasto heater as on the TD5?), plumb it into the cooling system (where did you run the pipes to?), plumb in the fuel feed (does the tank need to be removed to connect to the blank nipple?) and then it's good to go? Presumably if it's got the preheater switch then it doesn't need activating in the body control unit or anything?

      Cheers,

      Mark
    2. teddywood1
      teddywood1
      hi just noticed your call sign nice to know other hams are on here G0VVT teddywood1
    3. Colin from Hull
      Colin from Hull
      Hi, Gav i have been reading some old threads (4.0 engine) on one of the threads you mentioned that you have a engine block which may just need re-ringing, did you sell this item, if no, how much will you take for it. Colin from hull (eddymerchx@aol.com)
    4. esprit6
      esprit6
      Have a 2004 Range Rover diesel which I drive 2 kms to work each day, 6 days a week in day light. have interior lights turned of. At least once a week have to charge or jump start. I do drive it quitely when cold but never had the issue with my previous V/8. Several battery changes etc, charge rate checked. Only conclusion I can think of is alternator RPM is too low at lower engine RPM. Has any one else experienced a similiar problem.
    5. mike polly1
      mike polly1
      hi gav i have a 1996 rr p38 and put a eka code 1515 to try and sort my sent locking problem out .and it did nothing except ball my car up.and now wont do anything.but found out the door catch was faulty so put another one in and got the proper eka from r r.so put that code in and nothing happens all it keeps doing is when i put the new code in and put the final turn to open all the doors and open the driver door the allarm keeps going off and on dash says engine imobilised.the indicator lights flash outside to say the code is going in but no light on the dash flashes as the code is going in .we did manage when taking the door handle off to snap a pice of from the back of the key barrol but managed to fix a pice of tin to it so the door can be locked would this be at fault as it still locks and opens the car ??? also we have done the window setting but still nothing please can you help thanks mate mike
    6. Walshie
      Walshie
      HI, someone on the forum thought that you might be able to help me out?
      I have a '92 RRC 3.9 with a gas kit. After a recent trip to the garage for a bit of work, the gas is all over the place.I need to understand the connections (hoses) to the vaporiser and where they come from and go to etc. I think that there is something screwey going on. Any advice would be really appreciated?
      Thanks for your help,
      W
    7. broon bottle
      broon bottle
      Thanks for the info Gav, the front passenger door has now seemed to have fixed itself and is working ok, but the rear door is still locked. The child lock is also on so i cant open it from inside the car either, so don't know how any garage would be able to fix it either as you can't remove the door card.
    8. redkevlar
      redkevlar
      Hiya Gav,just to up date you on my door lock problem.I've stripped out the lock mech,cleaned it up,even sprayed the electrics with contact cleaner.Put it all back together,no joy,but I did notice broken strands on the interior door latch to lock, steel braids that sit inside the cable liner.Im guessing this could be snagging and not releasing the latch properly,just to be on the safe side though i'm looking for a second hand door mech and cable, but I will keep you informed.Anyway your a ****ing hero mate for doing those door locks[worst 2 hours of my life what a bastard of a job[you need fingers like E.T.] Anyway thanks again.
    9. jason600
      jason600
      Alright gav no problem just getting paranoid about the lpg on monday, if i get get probs in the furture i dont want to **** about i like to get things sorted quick.also thinking about rad and thermosat, but would prefer some who knows what hes doing rather than local **** job.
    10. 1914rick
      1914rick
      Hi mate.
      I was reading a post that you commented on and you may be able to help me!

      Both my cats have gone on my p38 (out of the flap!) but it runs on LPG.

      What more advice do you have on replacing the cat with a straight pipe.

      I know its possible, I am wonding what size pipe? and what about the lambar senses...do they go or stay?

      Rick
    11. Colin from Hull
      Colin from Hull
      Hi, Gav you have mentioned on the forum that you have worked on the door lock and switch, is it possible to test the switch and put the eka code in by pressing the switch before i replace it in the door
    12. nathan5346
      nathan5346
      Bulldog DM Mini Hitchlock For Alko & Albe Couplings on eBay (end time 12-Aug-09 18:19:32 BST)
    13. Comanche
      Comanche
      Thanks for your help with my electrics. I will try to find a procedure to sort this SRS light and keep you informed if I come up with anything.
      Part of this is avoiding Main Dealer costs, and part of it is learning about the vehicle, and enjoying fixing it yourself !!
      Best regards.
  • Loading...
  • Loading...
  • About

    Location:
    Sheffield uk
    Occupation:
    Boring
    Current Landrover:
    P reg '96 rangerover, p38. 4.0l se petrol/gas
    Dream Landrover?:
    one of them pimp mobiles with real wheels on!!!!!

    Signature

    im now the owner of discovery 2 with webasto aux heater installed​