Disco 2 Just in case ACE deactivation in an emergency

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MJI

MJI

Well-Known Member
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Worcester
Rear pipes are rusty, but will be doing a long trip before I have chance to replace them.

If they pop how can I easily and quickly by side of road disable it to be able to continue driving.

My tool kit includes 2l CCF and a Hawkeye.

Tempted to take a 10mm plumbing fitting and hacksaw JIC as well
 
Well if you have a leak, then the pump will be rotating without oil in it? not good if it overheats and locks up, as it will take the aux belt out.

Iirc, I have seen somewhere where the pump was isolated to just run thru the oil tank . obv the rest of the system was left not working so it was not ideal.

Cheers
 
neilly said:
Well if you have a leak, then the pump will be rotating without oil in it? not good if it overheats and locks up, as it will take the aux belt out.

Iirc, I have seen somewhere where the pump was isolated to just run thru the oil tank . obv the rest of the system was left not working so it was not ideal.

Cheers
Click to expand...

But the rear pair are most likely to pop not the high pressure from pump.

I have checked them all, rears are rather delecate
 
neilly said:
Well if you have a leak, then the pump will be rotating without oil in it? not good if it overheats and locks up, as it will take the aux belt out..
Iirc, I have seen somewhere where the pump was isolated to just run thru the oil tank . obv the rest of the system was left not working so it was not ideal.

Cheers
Click to expand...

This happened to me, pump burned out.

If you are worried you best take the pump out and get a pully that discos without ace have.

Disable your ace with your diagnostics. It is pretty quick and saves trouble in the end
 
Be prepared with some fluid to top up the tank and unplug the ACE ECU if rear pipes are leaking... this way the system is in locked bars and the fluid should recirculate through the valve block into the pump without letting fluid into the rams though i've seen cases when the valve block wasnt in the best shape internally and still leaked a bit, you can fabricate a emergency bypass using the same banjo like on the pump's output connected to a piece of hose long enough to reach the tank's return port, then in max 5 minutes you can undo the original banjo and fit this hose as to redirect the pump's outlet to the tank and letting the rest of the system "in the air'', this way you are 100% covered... you dont need any special hose cos there will be no pressure as the fluid will just circulate freely
 
Take the non ACE idler pulley and the correct belt,no while you are at it just remove the ACE fully - then it can't stop you on the side of the road.
 
sierrafery said:
Be prepared with some fluid to top up the tank and unplug the ACE ECU if rear pipes are leaking... this way the system is in locked bars and the fluid should recirculate through the valve block into the pump without letting fluid into the rams though i've seen cases when the valve block wasnt in the best shape internally and still leaked a bit, you can fabricate a emergency bypass using the same banjo like on the pump's output connected to a piece of hose long enough to reach the tank's return port, then in max 5 minutes you can undo the original banjo and fit this hose as to redirect the pump's outlet to the tank and letting the rest of the system "in the air'', this way you are 100% covered... you dont need any special hose cos there will be no pressure as the fluid will just circulate freely
Click to expand...

Damn, you couldn't have told me that before my pump burned out??

OK fair enough, I didn't ask. ;)
 
sierrafery said:
Be prepared with some fluid to top up the tank and unplug the ACE ECU if rear pipes are leaking... this way the system is in locked bars and the fluid should recirculate through the valve block into the pump without letting fluid into the rams though i've seen cases when the valve block wasnt in the best shape internally and still leaked a bit, you can fabricate a emergency bypass using the same banjo like on the pump's output connected to a piece of hose long enough to reach the tank's return port, then in max 5 minutes you can undo the original banjo and fit this hose as to redirect the pump's outlet to the tank and letting the rest of the system "in the air'', this way you are 100% covered... you dont need any special hose cos there will be no pressure as the fluid will just circulate freely
Click to expand...


Would unplugging the solenoids be enough?

I'll look at getting a bypass pipe made.
 
tulipandthistle said:
This happened to me, pump burned out.

If you are worried you best take the pump out and get a pully that discos without ace have.

Disable your ace with your diagnostics. It is pretty quick and saves trouble in the end
Click to expand...


This is a worst case, so I do not have to get recovery if it pops while on holiday.

Will be repiping it when I get back
 
MJI said:
Would unplugging the solenoids be enough?
.
Click to expand...
that should be enough as well just seemed harder to me than the ECU, this default is what i was thinking(from RAVE):
'Locked bars' means that all pump flow is directed through the valve block and returns
to the reservoir. Both DCV's close and fluid is trapped in the actuators but can flow from one actuator to the other via
the valve block. In this condition the torsion bar will perform similar to a conventional anti-roll bar, resisting roll but still
allowing the axles to articulate.
 
sierrafery said:
Be prepared with some fluid to top up the tank and unplug the ACE ECU if rear pipes are leaking
Click to expand...

Do you need to unplug everything or just the power supply (or fuse 15)? Or indeed fuse 29 in the interior fusebox? RAVE says that if there is no ignition supply (controlled by this fuse) then the system defaults to locked bars as said by Fery.
 
Last edited:
F29 is connected to the BCU and IDM too so better not touch that and as long as there is ignition feed in the ECU i can't guarantee for fully locked bars default that's why i went for the 100% certain solution with ECU unplugged, or disconnecting the DCVs ;) ... it's possible to get the locked bars with relay or F15 removed only but i'm not 100% certain of that... though the best is that hose with banjo attached cos it's a max 5 min job to bypass the whole system with it and keep the pump lubricated cos as i said i've seen locked bars with some fluid passing through to the rams... i have one in the boot but fortunately i didnt need it yet :)
 
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