hub removal

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gog

Active Member
Posts
138
Location
conwy n.wales
Trying to remove the front hub ,to put a new bearing in.
undone the 4 bolts on the back of hub carrier plus large nut on drive shaft end,
also taken off brake calliper ,but hub is not just coming off as 'rave' states.
Have I missed something .
 
Hmmmm - you could try putting the drive nut back on to the drive shaft but only a few turns.

Then get a handy friend to pull on the hub while you use a block of wood drift and hammer on the Drive Shaft Nut to free the hub from the drive shaft splines....

Don't go mental with the hammer, last thing you wanna do is damage the CV joint or the Diff Splines....

Looking at RAVE and also the parts drawings there is nothing else to hold it in place - there is and ABS heat sheild in there, but I am sure that won't have any effect.
 
I've even taken the abs heat sheild out, the drive shaft will move in and out about 10mm so Ithink its not stuck on this.
 
the carrier is what the steering arm etc is bolted to on the back of the hub,
so undo all of that and take whole lot off.
Rave just says undo bolts and hub will just come off?
 
thanks for the link,I did read this before starting the job ,hub seemed to just come off in his write up.

Na they usually get rusty on shaft and stick to inner bearing race iv never liked bashing the end of the cv drive shaft .much better to pull with a thud the sliding hub pullers are best.
 
found an old post were the use of a drilled bar bolted across 2 opp wheel studs,is then
used to hammer against to remove the hub,if it worked for him worth a go.
 
Well.. my front hub came off with a help of a large propane torch, a lot of freeze penetrating oil and a BIG hammer.

I actually screwed the screws that hold the hub to the carrier back in a few turns (the more the merrier, but leave some space for the movement), then banged them with the hammer. Heat up, freeze it, bang some more. Repeat about 30 f***n times and voila, the hub comes off :)

What i'd do better next time:
- protect the CV gaiter with some duct tape, to move it out of the way of your hammer, as it can get torn (and mine did...)
- put something metal in between bolt heads and your hammer, as i had to grind the heads back into shape afterwards.
- use bigger hammer. 3 kg is ok, 5 kg is better.
 
Last edited:
Well.. the hub came off with a help of a large propane torch, a lot of freeze penetrating oil and a BIG hammer.

I actually screwed the screws that hold the hub to the carrier back in a few turns (the more the merrier, but leave some space for the movement), then banged them with the hammer. Heat up, freeze it, bang some more. Repeat about 30 f***n times and voila, the hub comes off :)

What i'd do better next time:
- protect the CV gaiter with some duct tape, to move it out of the way of your hammer, as it can get torn (and mine did...)
- put something metal in between bolt heads and your hammer, as i had to grind the heads back into shape afterwards.
- use bigger hammer. 3 kg is ok, 5 kg is better.
All done glad you didnt wreck the three hub threads they are so small compared the the wheels studs that can take a thwack with a slide hammer eek
 
Well.. the hub came off with a help of a large propane torch, a lot of freeze penetrating oil and a BIG hammer.

I actually screwed the screws that hold the hub to the carrier back in a few turns (the more the merrier, but leave some space for the movement), then banged them with the hammer. Heat up, freeze it, bang some more. Repeat about 30 f***n times and voila, the hub comes off :)

What i'd do better next time:
- protect the CV gaiter with some duct tape, to move it out of the way of your hammer, as it can get torn (and mine did...)
- put something metal in between bolt heads and your hammer, as i had to grind the heads back into shape afterwards.
- use bigger hammer. 3 kg is ok, 5 kg is better.
Or use wood - metal on metal will still knacker the heads - unless you use a softer metal like Aluminium aas the sacrifical 'Drift'
 
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