CaptainB
Active Member
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- Gloucestershire
I was asked by @fashratty about my experience removing my FL2 2.2 TD4 engine (3 times!) and the sequence of operations that I went through to do the work. I thought I'd share my process here, hopefully others will find something useful.
The job isn't too difficult but I'd take your time and have materials on hand for sealing fuel lines etc to stop dirt getting in there ( I used disposable glove finger tips and rubber bands). It took me 3½ hours the third time around, hopefully you won't have to do it more than once. The first time took me pretty much the whole day.
It's a few months since I did the work and I didn't document the steps so I'm relying on my memory. I'm sure that other folks will have additional info to add and corrections to my post - I'd be grateful for such input.
Here's the sequence as best as I can remember, apologies if it's not quite 100% accurate:
Disconnect the gas struts that hold the bonnet open and push the bonnet right back. Tie/brace it so it doesn't fall on you.
Remove the air filter housing and pipes.
Disconnect the electrics from the fuse box.
Remove the fuel filter, cover the plugs, pipes etc and remove the fuel filter housing, it makes it easier to get to other bits.
Remove the starter motor if required. I had to on my automatic, if your's is manual you may not need to.
If you have an auto, remove the torque converter bolts (x6) through the starter motor aperture.
If you want to do the job without having the air-con re-gassed you need to remove the accessory belt, unbolt the AC compressor from the engine and strap it up so it doesn't drop when the engine comes out.
Disconnect the power steering pump hoses.
Drain the coolant and disconnect the hoses.
Disconnect the hose from the throttle body.
Under the car you'll need to remove the intake pipe that runs from front to back, disconnect the exhaust from the turbo and slacken the half-shaft bearing bracket.
Remove the front-right wheel and pull out the half-shaft. I had to disconnect the track rod and undo the lower hub/wishbone nut to get mine out, it was a faff and is much easier with two people.
Get your crane hooked up and take the weight of the engine so you can disconnect the bell housing bolts and engine mounts.
Start to slowly lift, check for snags as you continue to raise it. Having the alternator, AC compressor and PS pump removed helps but it's doable without having to. Just take your time and having an assistant to jack the crane while you look out for things is a great advantage.
I think that's all. My top tip - have plenty of light and a good supply of disposable gloves. (oh and a car lift, underfloor heating in the workshop, all the kit from the Wheeler Dealers workshop, a glamorous assistant to provide tea and biscuits hourly... etc!). While the engine is out of the car it might be worth changing the timing belt and water pump (if you weren't already), it's much easier than doing it with the engine in the car.
The job isn't too difficult but I'd take your time and have materials on hand for sealing fuel lines etc to stop dirt getting in there ( I used disposable glove finger tips and rubber bands). It took me 3½ hours the third time around, hopefully you won't have to do it more than once. The first time took me pretty much the whole day.
It's a few months since I did the work and I didn't document the steps so I'm relying on my memory. I'm sure that other folks will have additional info to add and corrections to my post - I'd be grateful for such input.
Here's the sequence as best as I can remember, apologies if it's not quite 100% accurate:
Disconnect the gas struts that hold the bonnet open and push the bonnet right back. Tie/brace it so it doesn't fall on you.
Remove the air filter housing and pipes.
Disconnect the electrics from the fuse box.
Remove the fuel filter, cover the plugs, pipes etc and remove the fuel filter housing, it makes it easier to get to other bits.
Remove the starter motor if required. I had to on my automatic, if your's is manual you may not need to.
If you have an auto, remove the torque converter bolts (x6) through the starter motor aperture.
If you want to do the job without having the air-con re-gassed you need to remove the accessory belt, unbolt the AC compressor from the engine and strap it up so it doesn't drop when the engine comes out.
Disconnect the power steering pump hoses.
Drain the coolant and disconnect the hoses.
Disconnect the hose from the throttle body.
Under the car you'll need to remove the intake pipe that runs from front to back, disconnect the exhaust from the turbo and slacken the half-shaft bearing bracket.
Remove the front-right wheel and pull out the half-shaft. I had to disconnect the track rod and undo the lower hub/wishbone nut to get mine out, it was a faff and is much easier with two people.
Get your crane hooked up and take the weight of the engine so you can disconnect the bell housing bolts and engine mounts.
Start to slowly lift, check for snags as you continue to raise it. Having the alternator, AC compressor and PS pump removed helps but it's doable without having to. Just take your time and having an assistant to jack the crane while you look out for things is a great advantage.
I think that's all. My top tip - have plenty of light and a good supply of disposable gloves. (oh and a car lift, underfloor heating in the workshop, all the kit from the Wheeler Dealers workshop, a glamorous assistant to provide tea and biscuits hourly... etc!). While the engine is out of the car it might be worth changing the timing belt and water pump (if you weren't already), it's much easier than doing it with the engine in the car.
