How to use diff box properly?

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Jonabonospen

New Member
Posts
74
Location
Wakefield, West Yorkshire
Am totally new to Land Rovers and 4x4's in general and am a little confused about the diff box and how to use it properly.

I think I am right in saying the "L" selection is for very steep hills and sand, where you are at low speed. And "H" selection is for added grip but at higher speeds so maybe on things like ice / snow / mud. That right roughly?

But then there is a bit on the label about the stick that says "DIFF" and then "LOCK". I assume this is to lock the diff, but is there supposed to be a diff lock low and a diff lock high? Looks like it should be a H box but the diagram shows a figure of 8.

Tried to have a play about with it bit am finding it VERY difficult to get it in any selection, even when the car is stationary and in neutral selection (it's an auto box). Any reason why it should be particularly difficult?
 
It is a figure of 8 gate, idea being you can move in and out of diff lock without taking the box out of high or low.

Try moving it between H and L with the car in neutral but moving below 10mph. ( have an auto RRC, and works for me)

L is for Low Range (Deep Mud, Hills, etc etc)
H is normal driving or gentle off roading such as green lanes.

The diff lock is ONLY for use when your on slippery surfaces, otherwise you'll break something.

Day to Day driving will be H and out of diff lock.
 
diff lock and hi/lo both use the same lever but are totally seperate functions ,low is just a lower output ratio for gear box ,diff lock locks both axles so both are positively driven ,with out difflock engaged you can stand still if one wheel looses traction and spins ,with diff lock engaged you would have to have a wheel on each axle spinning to stand still,diff lock should only be used on soft surfaces as on hard transmission can get wound up ,it can be engaged and disengaged whilst moving and may do either a little after lever has been pushed across ,but never try to engage it whilst a wheels spinning ,hi and low are engaged by a crude dog clutch so will only go into either gear when teeth align it may need putting breifly in d or r if it wont change in n
 
what jm said isv essentially correct but probably not crystal clear

the high and low is a two speed gear behind the main gearbox.... low reduces all speeds in the main gearbox, use low when you want more power (higher enginerevs) at low groundspeed, useful reversing a heavy trailer for example.

diff lock only locks the centre diff so ensuring drive goes to both axles, otherwise one wheel spinning takes all the drive....difflock ensures you can spin a wheel on the other axle aswell....
there is no lock on the axle differentials
 
Was going to say something, but I think most has been said. It would be worth getting an original Disco handbook to help you, and try and find some LR buddies nearby to help you learn about all the 'little foibles' of your new toy. Lots of fun to be had..........
 
Was going to say something, but I think most has been said. It would be worth getting an original Disco handbook to help you, and try and find some LR buddies nearby to help you learn about all the 'little foibles' of your new toy. Lots of fun to be had..........

I've picked up a Disco Haynes manual but not an original LR manual. Perhaps I should keep an eye out for one.

What people have said so far makes sense though. I think what was making me get more confused / concerned was the fact that I was finding it so difficult to change when stood stationary, but by the sounds of it a little movement will help in order to get the teeth lined up properly.

If anyone near Wakefield fancies coming round to have a look with me and show me theirs (I'll show you mine if you show me yours ;) ) then the kettle is always on :D
 
I've picked up a Disco Haynes manual but not an original LR manual. Perhaps I should keep an eye out for one.

What people have said so far makes sense though. I think what was making me get more confused / concerned was the fact that I was finding it so difficult to change when stood stationary, but by the sounds of it a little movement will help in order to get the teeth lined up properly.

If anyone near Wakefield fancies coming round to have a look with me and show me theirs (I'll show you mine if you show me yours ;) ) then the kettle is always on :D

If the difflock is stiff this might mean its not been used. Good news youve bought a chelsea tractor. Search on here free freeing the diff lever. Also what gear ya in in ya main box? You need to be in N
 
my Chelsea tractor also had a seized lever, took brute force from me and my brother, who is a rather large LGV spanner thug. And of course WD40. personally I think I sorted it with half a can and a little wiggle!!
 
It's stiff but it will go in. Will have a search for the threads though on freeing it up to see if it will get a bit better. Thanks.

Definitely has been a Chelsea tractor though as it is totally standard, no big wheels, steel bumpers, battle scars etc. Just cant decide though now whether to keep it standard as it is or to start modding it with bumpers, roof rack, wheels etc
 
Id rqher ha e a chlsea tractor than offroader me self. I know wot damage i cause, who knows wot some one else has done!
 
To be honest, a standard D1 with some decent tyres can go most places. Plus, the more mods you make, the more you might need to tell your insurance. I use my 300tdi as a car everyday, but been up mountains, through rivers etc.
 
Best thing u can do is get yourself at a pay n play day or on a green lane and you'll soon realise what to use and when to use it.
 
haynes is a workshop manual .how to repair it when youve broke it.... what you need is theorigional lr drivers handbook which explains the vehicle features and how to use it so you dont break it.
 
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