hi steer kit for lifted trucks, something in the pipeline

Loctite doesn't really count as a mechanical method of fixing though, it's more an aid... bit like a nyloc where the nut is the mechanical fixing, the nylon ring just helps prevent the nut vibrating loose.

Good points however the standard equipment does not have a mechanical locking solution, it is simply a nylock nut. The spacers still retain the nylock nut where it bolts through the struts steering arm. So the spacer will bolt onto the track rod end ball joint and be tightend using an adjustable spanner and allen key through the counter bore to stop the ball joint from spinning in its cup.
it will then bolt through the steering arm using the original type nylock nut when fitted it will resist loosening exactly the same as standard parts but provide the two inches needed to stop the track rods from contacting the bottom of the opening

On another topic, what about those that fit 25/30/40/75mm etc lift kits? As it won't be a universal part no?

RO51 said:

... So the spacer will bolt onto the track rod end ball joint and be tightend using an adjustable spanner and allen key through the counter bore to stop the ball joint from spinning in its cup.

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But that is still free to unscrew. The taper of the balljoint can rotate freely within its cup - This means that while your piece will be fitted solidly to the strut with no way to unscrew, the taper of the balljoint is free to rotate and vibrate loose. This is where you need some way of stopping it unscrewing. Threadlock will do it at a pinch, but has MOT issues as stated by another poster.

SES88 said:

On another topic, what about those that fit 25/30/40/75mm etc lift kits? As it won't be a universal part no?

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You just need to up your game to 80mm lift kits and he can bang two of these things on top of each other....

Its just as well Freelanders dont use drag links...


Sadly, the original ScarySteering website seems to have gone. It was full of cluster####s like that one above and much, much worse.

Nyloc is an acceptable locking method. Another issue may be having a hole up through the middle if that gets spotted it could also be an mot fail as it's a modification that could be deemed to weaken it as the originals don't have it.

dave21478 said:

You just need to up your game to 80mm lift kits and he can bang two of these things on top of each other....

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CV joint angle would be interesting then

SES88 said:

CV joint angle would be interesting then

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Rear inners bind at 50mm! On full droop

I'm sorry but I don't like the way there is no way the tighten the taper. As you try to tighten the thread, the taper will bind. This makes correct tightening impossible. There has to be a separate nut pulling the taper into correct engagement.

Picasso's idea on page 4 is about as good as it gets but I have a doubt about the amount of room for the balljoint taper.



The main advantage being all original fixings are used, so less of the above problems.
Although personally, I am in the "if it aint broke, dont **** about with it" camp and prefer removal of the lip on the wing if required.

dave21478 said:

Picasso's idea on page 4 is about as good as it gets but I have a doubt about the amount of room for the balljoint taper.

The main advantage being all original fixings are used, so less of the above problems.
Although personally, I am in the "if it aint broke, dont **** about with it" camp and prefer removal of the lip on the wing if required.

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"danke für die blumen"