hi steer kit for lifted trucks, something in the pipeline

Hi everyone

Rite after days of scratching my head and perfecting the art of real paper toss I have a design for a steering spacer, it's in drawing stages at the moment ready to prototype in a week or so

Basically this spacer will enable a 2inch lifted freelander to run standard steering arms and ball joints at standard angles with no chassis or inner wing cutting required it's a bolt on part and I have had the ok from a couple of mot testers saying It will pass no problems

If when.I have fitted the prototype to my car and tested it and it's ok and I can keep prices in a decent range would people be interested in buying such an item or is it not worth me investing the time into prices and quotes etc etc

Answer on a postcard chaps and chappets

It would have to be quite cheap! Cutting the inner wing costs nada

I wouldn't be interested as mine is sorted out, but it might be a possibility for those who haven't done a lift yet.

With regards costs, you are competing with camber pins at around £30 or so.

I would recommend still getting a 4 wheel alignment done regardless (which cost me £80).

It's nothing to do with camber correction it's where the steering ball joint bolts to the control arm on the strut

It's a solution to a common problem on the freelander it will disregard the need for any cutting of inner wing or chassis parts that could cause a weak spot in a crash no re rerouting of fuel lines just bolt on

If it works as I hope may not even need the tracking re doing

How many £££?

RO51 said:

It's nothing to do with camber correction it's where the steering ball joint bolts to the control arm on the strut

It's a solution to a common problem on the freelander it will disregard the need for any cutting of inner wing or chassis parts that could cause a weak spot in a crash no re rerouting of fuel lines just bolt on

If it works as I hope may not even need the tracking re doing

Click to expand...

I would be surprised if the camber didn't need adjusting, as the wheels are at a different angle, as they are lower. You are only talking about the track rod ends height aren't you. Every thing else changes. You may have to trim the top of the inner wheel arch for when the suspension is fully compressed as you are raising the height.

Yeah I'm talking about the track rods, spacing them up to put them back it to there original orientation.

I don't think the top of the inner wing will need to be cut as with the strut type on the freelander the travel on the suspension will still remain the same just two inches lower from the body because of the lift

Its hard to explain in writing lol

Cost I have no idea yet but it will hopefully be less than £50-60 for a pair posted they will be machined from billet steel and heat treated after possibly powder coated or plated depending on costs

I can see the thought of this do dad. There is a problem with it in application.
The lower wishbone and track rod are pretty much parallel an normal ride height. This keeps bump steer to a minimum. Once the Freelander is lifted, the wishbone angle will alter as will the track rod. However the wishbone will be at a steeper angle compared to the longer track rod. This will increase bump steer, more than standard. Now this little device will make the
angle difference between the wishbone and track rod even greater, this will make the bump steer worse still.
This would be far from ideal.
This is before a potential clearance issues with the inner wing on full compression.
Then there is the strength of the device. What if it were to fail on the motorway? The results could be horrible.
Caution is advisable

Put me down for ten sets!

I trust you to deliver your £100 stuff at your knock downprice of £200 per set.

I expect your tat on my doorstep at 1000 tomorrow... or else I'll tell mi dad and he's bigger than your dad...

My paypall address is [email protected].

Troll.

bushwwacker said:

Put me down for ten sets!

I trust you to deliver your £100 stuff at your knock downprice of £200 per set.

I expect your tat on my doorstep at 1000 tomorrow... or else I'll tell mi dad and he's bigger than your dad...

My paypall address is [email protected].

Troll.

Click to expand...

What the hell is that about

RO51 said:

What the hell is that about

Click to expand...

Are you a spammer, a troll or both?

Forgive my ignorance but, what is a 'hi steer kit'?
Where does it attach?
Are you trying to sell tat?
Why is your "product " better than the established system?

I hadn't thought of increasing bump steer. In the lowering world adjusting the angle of the track rod back to normal corrects bump steer to a degree.

The strength issue is a concern but shouldn't be a problem if it is made from strong enough material which is thick enough.

I agree the cost needs to be low otherwise people will take the no cost option of cutting.

Oh and don't worry about bushwhacker being odd - he is just a little cranky!

I can't see how there can.be clearance issues at the top of the inner wings, by lifting the freelander, the suspension strut is spaced down by 2 inches. So the suspension travel is still the same just 2 inches lower, but spacing only the track rod ball joint back up 2 inches will mean that the track rod will not travel as far up as it does on a standard car because the bump stop in the strut is two inches lower. It can't physically hit anything the limit in travel will stop it

This idea is used on race cars and drift cars but it utilises expensive rose joints and extended taper bolts, some kits I looked at were over the £250 mark for two bolts some spacers and two rose joints. My idea retains standard parts through out can be put back to standard if the car is sold on etc etc and it vastly cheaper for the masses

As far as bump steer issues this is unknown until I have the first set made and fitted to my car camber has nothing to do with the part I intend to fit and is addressed separately with camber bolts.

Tracking is again an unknown but I suspect that the track will not need to be change because the arms retain original position after a lift rather than dropping down and causing effectively a shortening in the steering system

As I said originally this is very much prototype stuff it could not work as my theory says it should and get binned but if I'm right and it does work its a cheap solution that will mean that people who can't or don't won't to cut chassis parts will not need to.

bushwwacker said:

Are you a spammer, a troll or both?

Forgive my ignorance but, what is a 'hi steer kit'?
Where does it attach?
Are you trying to sell tat?
Why is your "product " better than the established system?

Click to expand...

A high steer kit is exactly what it says it makes the steering higher

No I'm no spammer,

no I'm not trying to sell "tat" it will be a cnc machined part with tolerances I doubt you would notice

it attaches between the steering arm on the ssuspension strut and the track control arm ball joint on the left hand and right hand sides of the car .

It's not a product yet just a trial and I think a bolt on bolt off part is better than makeing potentialy unsafe modifications to a monocoque chassis and playing with fuel lines or butchery by people that don't know what they are doing.

The tracking will need adjusting slightly due to the suspension legs sitting at a slightly different angle in the vertical plane caused by the arc of the lower arm as it travels through its range of movement.

ZDomZ said:

The tracking will need adjusting slightly due to the suspension legs sitting at a slightly different angle in the vertical plane caused by the arc of the lower arm as it travels through its range of movement.

Click to expand...

Good point there it will give an opposite reaction won't it.... lowering the angel on the arm will pull the bottom of the strut in slightly so effectively making the steering longer

Never thought of that lol

RO51 said:

A high steer kit is exactly what it says it makes the steering higher

No I'm no spammer,

no I'm not trying to sell "tat" it will be a cnc machined part with tolerances I doubt you would notice

it attaches between the steering arm on the ssuspension strut and the track control arm ball joint on the left hand and right hand sides of the car .

It's not a product yet just a trial and I think a bolt on bolt off part is better than makeing potentialy unsafe modifications to a monocoque chassis and playing with fuel lines or butchery by people that don't know what they are doing.

Click to expand...

So you are trying to sell your high quality tat...

That's better high quality tat yeah could potentially be trying to sell that but please make no mistake.. I'm not a trader or self employed but I do work in the metal industry and I'm a keen offroad enthusiast that likes to use my trade to my hobbies advantage

I'm trying to make life easier for you guys that mod your freelanders. The offroad world has all but stalled and let's be honest freelanders are not the most commonly used car anyway BUT why can't we have a vehicle that has some tidy mods designed by drivers for drivers,

I'm not associated with any company that deals in aftermarket parts or even the motor trade

I just like to take modifications to a more sophisticated level rather than hack a hole in the chassis find a better solution to a problem that plagues almost every lifted truck one that can be fitted using only a spanner and Allen key

ZDomZ said:

The tracking will need adjusting slightly due to the suspension legs sitting at a slightly different angle in the vertical plane caused by the arc of the lower arm as it travels through its range of movement.

Click to expand...

I was thinking the same, and then I read your post. Very good point.

RO51 said:

rather than hack a hole in the chassis find a better solution to a problem that plagues almost every lifted truck one that can be fitted using only a spanner and Allen key

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Being picky, Freelanders don't have a chassis.

I don't think the inner wing is structural.