hello from a prosective '04 Freelander TD4 owner: OBD help please.

Greetings to the community at Landyzone.

My name is Gary, and i am long term Toyota Celica GT-Four enthusiast.
I have recently had the pleasure of borrowing a friends TD4 for a weekend and really liked it.. So i am now on the lookout for my own family car.

However, i now find my self looking for some advice regarding a '04 facelift Freelander TD4 station wagon i test drove yesterday.

The car has covered approx 110,000 miles with full main dealer service history. However i have some concerns, so thought best to ask the community for help and assistance.

I noted the car was difficult to start from cold. It did not turn on first start of the key. It did start on the 2nd turn, but wouldn't idle correctly. It was most definitely missing and and very lumpy! The engine sounded like it was on 3 cylinders, and knocking quite loudly. I opened the bonnet and the engine was rocking back and forth in the engine bay.

I gently increased the revs from 800 rpm to 1500 rpm and after 20 - 30 seconds it seemed to clear itself, and would idle correctly, no more knocking.

On the test drive i experienced a similar misfire always around 1200 rpm while trying to engage 1st gear and pull away. Or if i just reved the car in neutral, i could feel it being lumpy @ 1200rpm.

The remainder of the test drive was fault free and the car pull well in all gears. No smoke or turbo problems from what i could ascertain

I return back to the dealer, turned off the car, and then tried to restart it. It displayed the same initial poor idle, missing badly / lumpy for a few seconds, until i increased the revs to 1500 rpm and it would clear itself.


I told the dealer that the car had faults, and walked away.
Today i received a phone call from the dealer saying, that the car had been taken to a specialist for diagnosis and "fixed"

I was informed that the car had displayed 2 previously stored ECU error codes:
# Camshaft sensor
# Air Flow Meter

The technician, reset and cleared the stored ecu error codes.... and i have been invited back for a 2nd test drive.



Having little understanding of the on Landrover on board diagnostics, i was surprised NOT to see an engine management light illuminated on the dash... ???

Is there anyway to read the ecu fault codes, without taking it to a main dealer? ( On toyota we simply ground to earth one of the terminals in the diagnostic box using a paper clip, and read off the flashing fault codes of the iliminated engine management light)


Should i ask the dealer to replace the Camshaft sensor and AFM. are these common faults on the TD4.


Thanking you all in advance for your advice.

regards,

Gary ST165

walk away!Best of the bunch the td4 but enuff out there so get another.:welcome2:

dont buy a freelander or range rover.Get a nice doisel discovery and be done.td5 is ok tdi is best.it may be worth gettin a slightly older one and spend on some new tyres shox etc...you will be better off.

thanks for the welcome and advice


:attention: however is camshaft sensor fault common for the TD4.
I have just searched and read a few threads where the TD4 can have hot start problems, but not cold start... cost £65 for Camshaft sensor iirc


any more info on reading on board diagnosis system would be much appreciated, if there is an ecu fault, will an engine management light come on?

many thanks

I know Freelander is compromised a soft roader, but it suits my (wifes) immediate needs for a newish (5 year old car).
Unfortunately I am not interested in the TD5 / TDI Discos...

cheers for your input Beast

Gary ST165 said:

thanks for the welcome and advice


:attention: however is camshaft sensor fault common for the TD4.
I have just searched and read a few threads where the TD4 can have hot start problems, but not cold start... cost £65 for Camshaft sensor iirc


any more info on reading on board diagnosis system would be much appreciated, if there is an ecu fault, will an engine management light come on?

many thanks

Click to expand...

Search for the three amigoes on here

...you will be sorry you will....

Hi Gary. Welcome to landyzone.

Camshaft sensor usually only rears it's head when the engine is warm. It often wont bring up a management light. MAF again is a common fault but no more so than on any other modern vehicle. simply pulling the electrical plug off it and then going for a drive can often prove if it does or doesn't work. Again failed MAF's don't usually bring up management lights.

I've not heard of the paperclip test being done on a TD4. It is possible to do it on some older landrover models such as discovery 300tdi's etc.

Where are you located? If you edit your profile to show where you are you may get someone local willing to assist you. I'm in the North somerset area if you are local to me and want it plugging in.

It sounds like it's more likely to be a fueling fault. There is a connector on the fuel rail that often gets corroded and is a simple fix. this can cause misfiring, loss of power or starting issues.

like most modern vehicles they are also prone to injector failure. Again this usually shows up as not wanting to start when hot.

Weak fuel pumps are another cause of loss of power. This can often be tested by pulling the wire off the fuel regulator.

Your best bet would be to post this question in the freelander section. You will get the opinions of the 'freebie' experts then.

Your best bet would be to post this question in the freelander section. You will get the opinions of the 'freebie' experts then.

True enough but personally i would not buy one.All ya get is ****e on here.some stuff is just best left.
shame really cos i quite like them.

Beast o Bodmin said:

Your best bet would be to post this question in the freelander section. You will get the opinions of the 'freebie' experts then.

True enough but personally i would not buy one.All ya get is ****e on here.some stuff is just best left.
shame really cos i quite like them.

Click to expand...

care to explain that?

just read some great info on: 75ZT HOME

oh dear. as i understand the symptoms might suggest a new MAF may be required.
£220 for the bosch unit... and i read that the signals can start to deteriorate from as little as 30,000 miles.

i am in a dilemma now where i feel that all the vehicles in my price range (£5K) are showing 100,000 plus miles...and may all be due imminent MAF replacement.

would it be sensible to replace the camshaft sensor and MAF on any vehicle of this age and then hope fingers crossed for trouble free motoring :lol:

yeah.The freelander is not designed engine wise to do short runs.this is the most common cause of equipment being burnt out.Also the build quality is to beeeee..lets say not looked at too close.Why bother with such a pile o crap when fer the same money a small jap wagon will serve far longer and cheaper.Take the honda crv for instance.wins hands down.I know i know but why,if ya gunna buy british then at least get summat that works.A defender or disco.ya just chuckin money away else.

Gary ST165 said:

just read some great info on: 75ZT HOME

oh dear. as i understand the symptoms might suggest a new MAF may be required.
£220 for the bosch unit... and i read that the signals can start to deteriorate from as little as 30,000 miles.

i am in a dilemma now where i feel that all the vehicles in my price range (£5K) are showing 100,000 plus miles...and may all be due imminent MAF replacement.

would it be sensible to replace the camshaft sensor and MAF on any vehicle of this age and then hope fingers crossed for trouble free motoring :lol:

Click to expand...

I aint gonna tell you again.

GET YER ARSE DOWN TO THE FREELANDER SECTION BEFORE I GIVE YOU A THICK EAR.

That is expensive for MAF sensors but I'm pretty sure I read in the freebie section that decent MAFs can be picked up for a lot less than that. If you change a cam sensor then you should replace the crank sensor too (and vice versa).

Keep your eyes open for Darmain, Ming, Optimus Prime, Willow and a few others that i have forgetted. They are all pretty hot on freebies and will help sort out any of your reservations.

ratty said:

Hi Gary. Welcome to landyzone.


Where are you located? If you edit your profile to show where you are you may get someone local willing to assist you. I'm in the North somerset area if you are local to me and want it plugging in.


It sounds like it's more likely to be a fueling fault. There is a connector on the fuel rail that often gets corroded and is a simple fix. this can cause misfiring, loss of power or starting issues.

like most modern vehicles they are also prone to injector failure. Again this usually shows up as not wanting to start when hot.

Weak fuel pumps are another cause of loss of power. This can often be tested by pulling the wire off the fuel regulator.

Your best bet would be to post this question in the freelander section. You will get the opinions of the 'freebie' experts then.

Click to expand...

I'm based in South Wiltshire, but viewing a car in the North London area.

Many thanks to you all for the above info.

The car displayed no hot start problems. only 1st cold start, and then subsequent starts got better as the car warmed up.

Can you go into more depth re the fuel rail sensor? >> Is it a fuel temp sensor at £7

ratty said:

I aint gonna tell you again.

GET YER ARSE DOWN TO THE FREELANDER SECTION BEFORE I GIVE YOU A THICK EAR.

Click to expand...

If a moderator wishes to move the thread to the freelander forum, then that would be much appreciated.

regards

G

Do what yer told and feck arf to the section fer gays ya gay lovin cock suckin turd cuttin gay homo tossin gay fookin poof.

Beast o Bodmin said:

Do what yer told and feck arf to the section fer gays ya gay lovin cock suckin turd cuttin gay homo tossin gay fookin poof.

Click to expand...

ta Beast :multiply::lalala:

Gary ST165 said:

I'm based in South Wiltshire, but viewing a car in the North London area.

Many thanks to you all for the above info.

The car displayed no hot start problems. only 1st cold start, and then subsequent starts got better as the car warmed up.

Can you go into more depth re the fuel rail sensor? >> Is it a fuel temp sensor at £7

Click to expand...

No it's not a temp sensor. it's the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail. If the connector appears a nasty green or brown colour then it has corroded. Often it can be cleaned up and it will work ok then. There is a modified one available. I believe the part number is YMQ503320 but you hopefully somebody else can confirm this cos freelanders aint my strong point.

If a moderator wishes to move the thread to the freelander forum, then that would be much appreciated.

regards

G

Click to expand...

FFS. You could at least polish my magic lamp before you start using up yer 3 wishes.

i reckon ees a mechanic that dunno **** all and is chargin £70 ph

Gary ST165 said:

ta Beast :multiply::lalala:

Click to expand...

When BoB first turned up we thought he was the village idiot.







































We've since learned the whole village is that thick.

Gary ST165 said:

Greetings to the community at Landyzone.

My name is Gary, and i am long term Toyota Celica GT-Four enthusiast.
I have recently had the pleasure of borrowing a friends TD4 for a weekend and really liked it.. So i am now on the lookout for my own family car.

However, i now find my self looking for some advice regarding a '04 facelift Freelander TD4 station wagon i test drove yesterday.

The car has covered approx 110,000 miles with full main dealer service history. However i have some concerns, so thought best to ask the community for help and assistance.

I noted the car was difficult to start from cold. It did not turn on first start of the key. It did start on the 2nd turn, but wouldn't idle correctly. It was most definitely missing and and very lumpy! The engine sounded like it was on 3 cylinders, and knocking quite loudly. I opened the bonnet and the engine was rocking back and forth in the engine bay.

Click to expand...

Quite possibly a failing injector

I gently increased the revs from 800 rpm to 1500 rpm and after 20 - 30 seconds it seemed to clear itself, and would idle correctly, no more knocking.

On the test drive i experienced a similar misfire always around 1200 rpm while trying to engage 1st gear and pull away. Or if i just reved the car in neutral, i could feel it being lumpy @ 1200rpm.

Click to expand...

Maf sensor? was the trottle response poor/flat spot pulling away?

The remainder of the test drive was fault free and the car pull well in all gears. No smoke or turbo problems from what i could ascertain

I return back to the dealer, turned off the car, and then tried to restart it. It displayed the same initial poor idle, missing badly / lumpy for a few seconds, until i increased the revs to 1500 rpm and it would clear itself.

I told the dealer that the car had faults, and walked away.
Today i received a phone call from the dealer saying, that the car had been taken to a specialist for diagnosis and "fixed"

Click to expand...

fixed by doing what?

I was informed that the car had displayed 2 previously stored ECU error codes:
# Camshaft sensor
# Air Flow Meter

The technician, reset and cleared the stored ecu error codes.... and i have been invited back for a 2nd test drive.

Having little understanding of the on Landrover on board diagnostics, i was surprised NOT to see an engine management light illuminated on the dash... ???

Click to expand...

MIL illumination depends on the seriousness and frequency of the fault

Is there anyway to read the ecu fault codes, without taking it to a main dealer? ( On toyota we simply ground to earth one of the terminals in the diagnostic box using a paper clip, and read off the flashing fault codes of the iliminated engine management light)

Click to expand...

there's no flashing fault codes.
emissions related codes can be read and cleared with a generic scanner.
full access to all modules is only available via LRs 'Testbook' diagnostic system.

Should i ask the dealer to replace the Camshaft sensor and AFM. are these common faults on the TD4.

Click to expand...

They are indeed common faults on td4s and it would be wise to ask for them to be replaced.
you should also question what exactly has been done to rectify the misfiring/poor idle and the poor starting issue, it's fair to say that td4s fire up almost instantly when all is well.

Thanking you all in advance for your advice.

regards,

Gary ST165

Click to expand...