Freelander 1 td4 auto diesel.

Had what was suspected as a crankshaft pulley on the way out so replaced the pulley tried to start her and she’d start but after some hassle then stall so tried to start again and then made a big bang and now turns over but doesn’t start.

So had RAC out and he mentioned wasn’t getting any rpm readings so replaced the crank and cam sensors which didn’t change anything.

While trying to find the issue we noticed that no air was being sucked into the engine.

Any suggestions or advice ?

How did you unscrew and re-tighten the crank pulley ??

The guy that did it used a air gun is what he called it

So the crankshaft on the TD4 BMW engine M47 which is what you have has a cast iron crankshaft. No air tools or impact tools should ever be used on the pulley as it is very likely to fracture the crankshaft.
Sounds like this is what has happened and may, due to the bang, have caused irreversible damage to the engine.

Fit a socket on the crank pulley nut and try to move the wrench back and forward. If it moves any amount with no or little resistance then I would conclude a fractured crankshaft.

I would take it back to the garage for what will be a very expensive repair. Or maybe choose a garage that is familiar with this specific vehicle to prevent any repeat occurrences.

Sorry to be bearer of possibly bad news.....

Richiehbullock said:

The guy that did it used a air gun is what he called it

Click to expand...

Oh dear, not good.

Would that explain the lack of suction into the

andyfreelandy said:

So the crankshaft on the TD4 BMW engine M47 which is what you have has a cast iron crankshaft. No air tools or impact tools should ever be used on the pulley as it is very likely to fracture the crankshaft.
Sounds like this is what has happened and may, due to the bang, have caused irreversible damage to the engine.

Fit a socket on the crank pulley nut and try to move the wrench back and forward. If it moves any amount with no or little resistance then I would conclude a fractured crankshaft.

I would take it back to the garage for what will be a very expensive repair. Or maybe choose a garage that is familiar with this specific vehicle to prevent any repeat occurrences.

Sorry to be bearer of

andyfreelandy said:

So the crankshaft on the TD4 BMW engine M47 which is what you have has a cast iron crankshaft. No air tools or impact tools should ever be used on the pulley as it is very likely to fracture the crankshaft.
Sounds like this is what has happened and may, due to the bang, have caused irreversible damage to the engine.

Fit a socket on the crank pulley nut and try to move the wrench back and forward. If it moves any amount with no or little resistance then I would conclude a fractured crankshaft.

I would take it back to the garage for what will be a very expensive repair. Or maybe choose a garage that is familiar with this specific vehicle to prevent any repeat occurrences.

Sorry to be bearer of possibly bad news.....

Click to expand...

would that explain the lack of suction?

Click to expand...

Depends where crank has failed. Maybe valves not opening and closing if timing chain not turning.

andyfreelandy said:

Depends where crank has failed. Maybe valves not opening and closing if timing chain not turning.

Click to expand...

Timing chain seems to be turning when viewed through the cam sensor hole

Richiehbullock said:

Timing chain seems to be turning when viewed through the cam sensor hole

Click to expand...

What happens is the crank breaks on the crank web closest to the timing chain. That part of the crank isn't very strong, it doesn't need to be as it's only designed for driving the timing and ancillaries.
Unfortunately the crank isn't strong enough to handle the high torque needed to bust the bolt free, so the crank breaks resulting in timing inaccuracies. If you can get a spanner on the pulley bolt and try turning the pulley one way then the other, you can normally feel the slack, sometimes accompanied by a clack sound as the free play is taken up.

There is a special tool that is designed to fit in the hex shaped recess in the damper pulley, which is used to hold the pulley firmly against the bolt torque, so the crank doesn't take the load.

We've seen this issue several times, including on members vehicles.
There are 2 options. A replacement crankshaft, or a replacement engine.

For future reference this is the correct tool to avoid crank damage: