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I have already posted my problems on the threads of (loss of power at 70mph and Head Gasket). But thought that after reading this lot above, I would add fuel to the fire.

My Petrol FL 1.8 has been off the road (literally!!) for the last 4wks. Nobody seems to be able to figure out what's wrong with it.

In the last half hour I have just been to the dealer that has it and paid £350.50 bill for them to tell me they cannot find a problem with it, although it won't run properly and the plugs are being flooded with fuel :)

The local garage is collected it back from the dealer next Monday and taking the Head off to send away to have crack and pressure test done (£30 they tell me as opposed to dealer qouting £500).

It has been suggested, by the dealer to the local garage, that the hydraulic battons that lift the valves (intake & outlet somewhere, I'm a typical female and this jargon no good to me), are what is causing the problem.

I have yet to be convinced but am having to let it happen as no other route to take.

Bearing in mind I have already fitted (my self and hubby that is): New plugs, New Leads, New Rotor Arm, New Dizzy Cap and new fuel pump (yes I fitted that!!?? :) )

Will finish the story when there is an ending. :) :)
 
yer care to enlighten us as to why driving off road 'wears' out yer fluids quicker than on-road driving.

ah can see yer air filter might get bunged up in dusty conditions maybe even wet muddy conditions , depend whether yer got a snorkel or not. but I just can't see how driving off road is gonna wear out yer fluids any quicker than on road would.

Many and varied reasons but primarily I would put it down to virtually all factory vehicles running a wet sump system and due to extreme angles you manage while off road there will at times be "dry" spots within the engine.

Combine the dry spots with prolonged slow speed driving causing higher temeratures (no matter how effective a cooling system is check any motorway tailback for overheated cars) and often on steep gradients and you will start to get oil breaking down.

Starting and stopping engine...personally I prefer to keep engine running ( as much as is possible taking wet sump problems/extreme angles into consideration) and rely on a well looked after cooling system and proper lubrication... others (especially V8s or older motors with poor electrics) think engine off where possible is the way to go...each to their own.

Combine that again with extremes of temperature...how many dont take their motor out to find the deepest snow(i do) or dont find the deepest ford to splash in (i do) even on the hottest days (even with breathers you will get condensation)??

Perfect recipy for oil breakdown Im afraid.

Personally I dont use the fully synthetic oil as reccomended by LR (honestly dont think it lasts as long as cheaper variants and can start to break down after 3-4k miles)and pay half the price for semi synthetic which lasts longer... so costs no more than an extra filter per service.

Also under fluids I include coolant brake steering transmission etc etc as each and every one works far harder off road than it does on it you think how many times you stop start change gear adjust steering etc on a days off roading compared to a day sat at 70mph on motorway...

I could start to go into piston blow by, carburretion, acid build up, scavenging etc etc but please see Car maintenance : Everything you need to know about engine and motor oil for confirmation of above by someone who knows a lot more than me...( The Car Maintenance Bibles ) an excellent resource for the rest of your motor.


You wont get the AA or RAC up here:D
Snowwithkids10-7.jpg
 
Hi Sue... In your other thread ( think it was you ) i asked for more details of your motor...First thing is you say you havent used it for a couple of weeks before problems ...is that a thing you do often.???
 
Many and varied reasons but primarily I would put it down to virtually all factory vehicles running a wet sump system and due to extreme angles you manage while off road there will at times be "dry" spots within the engine.

Combine the dry spots with prolonged slow speed driving causing higher temeratures (no matter how effective a cooling system is check any motorway tailback for overheated cars) and often on steep gradients and you will start to get oil breaking down.

Starting and stopping engine...personally I prefer to keep engine running ( as much as is possible taking wet sump problems/extreme angles into consideration) and rely on a well looked after cooling system and proper lubrication... others (especially V8s or older motors with poor electrics) think engine off where possible is the way to go...each to their own.

Combine that again with extremes of temperature...how many dont take their motor out to find the deepest snow(i do) or dont find the deepest ford to splash in (i do) even on the hottest days (even with breathers you will get condensation)??

Perfect recipy for oil breakdown Im afraid.

Personally I dont use the fully synthetic oil as reccomended by LR (honestly dont think it lasts as long as cheaper variants and can start to break down after 3-4k miles)and pay half the price for semi synthetic which lasts longer... so costs no more than an extra filter per service.

Also under fluids I include coolant brake steering transmission etc etc as each and every one works far harder off road than it does on it you think how many times you stop start change gear adjust steering etc on a days off roading compared to a day sat at 70mph on motorway...

I could start to go into piston blow by, carburretion, acid build up, scavenging etc etc but please see Car maintenance : Everything you need to know about engine and motor oil for confirmation of above by someone who knows a lot more than me...( The Car Maintenance Bibles ) an excellent resource for the rest of your motor.


You wont get the AA or RAC up here:D
Snowwithkids10-7.jpg
are you seriously trying to tell us that the makers of off road vehicles don't consider the acute angle the engine will be performing at when they design the lubrication system?
as for variations in temperature, oils are 'mixed' to take into account this very thing hence the reason for catorgorising them as 10w/40 or whatever.

and yer man thats does the car miantence bibles int as clued up as he likes to think, there was a thread on here some time back concerning the very same site and the general consensus was that well he was ok on the basics when he tried to get techincal he was talking **** most of the time.

there was also the other internet mechanical expert who trys to inform the world that if you don't have a real good air filter this will cause engine wear due to the microscopic partickles, that your average air filter does filter out getting into the oil system. when he was asked how the particles get from the inlet to the oil as there is no clear passage between the two he came up with this doosy "the dust particles that are smaller than so many micron ( i forget just how small they were)can slip past the piston rings"

ah mean have yer ever heard such bollocks?
 
are you seriously trying to tell us that the makers of off road vehicles don't consider the acute angle the engine will be performing at when they design the lubrication system?

I didnt say that, what I am saying is any wet sump is a compromise over weight/performance/cost and any vehicle especially high performance and off-road would benefit from a dry sump for the reasons stated. You wont see many decent motor racing team of any discipline with a wet sump despite the extra weight of system, costs involved and the fact that oils will be changed at every available opportunity.

as for variations in temperature, oils are 'mixed' to take into account this very thing hence the reason for catorgorising them as 10w/40 or whatever.

Multigrade oils are basically a lightweight oil (good in cold) with a polymer added (to help at temperature) to cover certain temperature ranges and are by their very nature a compromise at most temperatures. Again do you know of racing teams using multigrade oils???

and yer man thats does the car miantence bibles int as clued up as he likes to think, there was a thread on here some time back concerning the very same site and the general consensus was that well he was ok on the basics when he tried to get techincal he was talking **** most of the time.

He will probably get on with a few on here then.;) I have found his information very informative, somtimes an opinion rather than fact creeps in... you can always find someone who will disagree with an opinion.

there was also the other internet mechanical expert who trys to inform the world that if you don't have a real good air filter this will cause engine wear due to the microscopic partickles, that your average air filter does filter out getting into the oil system. when he was asked how the particles get from the inlet to the oil as there is no clear passage between the two he came up with this doosy "the dust particles that are smaller than so many micron ( i forget just how small they were)can slip past the piston rings"

ah mean have yer ever heard such bollocks?

Aint seen the thing but presume its an advert for filters, but if your saying particles cant get through, then can you explain why carbon, the ****e formed in compression chamber from burning fuel mixed with air thats come through said filter with particles can.????



Think you initially asked why I thought oil would deteriorate more off road than on....you dont seem to agree:confused: you dont have to....your choice.

I like a balanced argument (plus im sick of fookin typin an goin for a brew) so can you provide any reasons why you think it wouldn't ????
 
Hi Doobrey. When I said compression test, yes I meant an overnight pressure test. They said it held the pressure and when they put the plugs back in it ran sweet as you like for a few mins and then went lumpy and stopped. And as to the other thread, yes this is the one that we went through all the electrics.

I'm certainly not convinced it's the head either. From information on here, and from Garage, I should be getting signs of loss of coolant, overheating, water in oil/oil in water, smoking etc etc etc. Am not getting any of that at all, just no revs when foot depressed (which is what I'm getting the more time goes by without signs of fixing) lolololol :)
 
Hey MHM just found some old threads of yours 2006 ref your very expensive HGF....(looking to sort another problem out for someone else) and your basis for your it happened to mine so it will happen to yours..please dont take this the wrong way but just trying to explain to others why its not advisable to become bogged down with FL PARANOIA or HGF FOOKED SYNDROME (as said I have been known to suffer from same)

The piccies you posted of thermostat ( should have been easily recognisable to anyone that the thermostst (about £90ish retail and a couple of hundred fitted) housing was knackered. And if your local LR agant really didnt know what they showed you should now go to the dickhead and castrate him.

(piccies at post 12 http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/v6-head-gasket-failure-33223-2.html )

That should have been spotted by no more than removing the accoustic cover/airbox thingamabob and shining a torch between intake manifold...2 minute job.

Obviously the tw*ts that removed your engine deserve the same treatment as above but on a much slower and painful basis...

Perfectly understanderbubble behaviour looking at some of the reactions you got on here and other forums, but if you actually go back over those posts now, read what was being said (first one on here Land Rover Freelander - V6 head gasket failure [Archive] - MG-Rover.org Forums says the diagnosis was rubbish) and analyse things you may find that you are now guilty of doing the same to others...

Too late for you MHM but for anyone else reading this dont take what you are first told as gospel, nor should you believe every back street garage... MHM seems convinced by a sniff test (the only thing pointing to HGF) changing colour that he and his warranty people had their wallets felt ... a sniff test result can very very easily be made to look like its failed either on purpose (or by muppets who have no idea how they should be used) by allowing a small amount of water/colant into the tube as this will give give the same reading (normally a colour change) as HGF and bump the job up from a simple thermostat to £1000ssss

It aint always a simple as above and its the "it happened to me" thing that lets me know what your problem was at first sight...

Bit of advice to all... dont go into anywhere with a problem and tell them its covered by warranty before getting a couple of different opinions/prices from peeps that know at least somthing about your motor.

Sorry to say but think you should have listened to this fella
To me it sounds like your cars in the hands of a bunch of complete ******* morons.

If they think compression gasses are are, and then change their mind, and then don't know, they are complete idiots.

Come down like a **** ton of bricks on the warrenty company and get them to move their ass, also get your car + all of that engine away from that garage and to somebody who might have a clue what they are doing.

Freaking monkies...
 
yawn!

You are, of course, perfectly correct in everything you say. 1.8 and 2.5 Hippoos are bloody fantastic machines. I recomend everyone to go and buy one, preferably two. If you are lucky they will end world domination and feed the starving in Africa, whilst driving thru 20foot of water.




















providing the doors dont fall off when they get wet.:rolleyes:
 
yawn!

You are, of course, perfectly correct in everything you say. 1.8 and 2.5 Hippoos are bloody fantastic machines.
Have I said that....NOOOO have I said dont believe every daft t*** that says its HGF....YES if your just joining in here read post above **** ***

I recomend everyone to go and buy one, preferably two.

Therye cheap enough with all the scaremongering...pehaps Ill have a few for spares myself.


If you are lucky they will end world domination and feed the starving in Africa, whilst driving thru 20foot of water.
WTFs that all about???

Sorry mate trying to be polite so far ....should I have said yove been a ****** ******* **** and deserve everything youve had ripped out of ya... perhaps I should go back and find some of your ""only trying to stop others loosing money pennies coz I is a daft **** and dont listen to the advice ive been given"" quotes.






















providing the doors dont fall off when they get wet.:rolleyes:
 
oh ffs ah really can't be arsed to edjarmacake yer, you should have paid attention in skool.
but fer yer last point about micro/miniskool/tiny/tiddley/itsybitsyweeny wee bits getting through from the induction circuit to the sump .well they probelly do they sure as hell int gonna be big enough to cause any problems
 
oh ffs ah really can't be arsed to edjarmacake yer, you should have paid attention in skool.
but fer yer last point about micro/miniskool/tiny/tiddley/itsybitsyweeny wee bits getting through from the induction circuit to the sump .well they probelly do they sure as hell int gonna be big enough to cause any problems

Awwww Was waiting for the definitive answer to where you thort the ickl bits went....any numpty wiv half a nouse (even my daft 13 yr old or his even dafter mates) could have teld ya that.. Was hopin ya was gonna mention elves and gremlis an things;) Was you who brought that ****e up.

As for rest of me edjucation is it because you dont wanna sound as daft as some on here .... no names no pack drill...or is it that you thinks your above it.... Wont mention anywhere associated with Bettys.

Go on i spent fookin ages till me fingers were bleedin and my eyes hurt to type that answer to a question an think the least I deserve is an expert answer from him who knows best
 
Re off road usage in the 1.8, a pitch sloping R to L would cause a low oil pressure, as the oil pump intake is on the drivers side,
Re microscopic particles, they could lead to highly polished cylinders, as would synthetic oil
in a classic car engine.
0
 
From slob (or should that be Mr. Slob or Sir...Respect fer teacher) there was also the other internet mechanical expert who trys to inform the world that if you don't have a real good air filter this will cause engine wear due to the microscopic partickles, that your average air filter does filter out getting into the oil system. when he was asked how the particles get from the inlet to the oil as there is no clear passage between the two he came up with this doosy "the dust particles that are smaller than so many micron ( i forget just how small they were)can slip past the piston rings"

ah mean have yer ever heard such bollocks?

Aint seen the thing but presume its an advert for filters, but if your saying particles cant get through, then can you explain why carbon, the ****e formed in compression chamber from burning fuel mixed with air thats come through said filter with particles can.????


oh ffs ah really can't be arsed to edjarmacake yer, you should have paid attention in skool.
but fer yer last point about micro/miniskool/tiny/tiddley/itsybitsyweeny wee bits getting through from the induction circuit to the sump .well they probelly do they sure as hell int gonna be big enough to cause any problems

As before Slob I went into great detail to answer your question as to why oils/fluids deteriorate off road more than on...all I asked was why you thought they wouldnt..You obviously think you know better than most and seem to like telling people, so why if thats the case, wont you, in the interest of balanced argument, inform us all:confused:

Glad you think Im full of ****... comes in very handy in making those who are full of themselves look like ****.

Still awaiting my answer (Sir) as currently feel there must be something you can tell me without making yourself look a complete tw4t or backing into corners and throwing insults.
 
Hmmm, as ive just bought one, this is really good fun to read. But im unsure why people who dont own one post on here? Int this for Freelander owners or previous owners to offer help and advice to others? In a POSITIVE way? Im not one for insults, I do not understand how slagging people off can either make you feel better and def make you look better.

Calm down all and remember the actual reason this forum is here. Isnt it entitled "Freelander fans lets hear you"?

Ive just bought one and like to get involved in communities/clubs etc think i might be barking up the wrong tree here. Same every single thread.
 
welcome, Sharpe.

most of the vociferous peeps wot post about Gaylanders DID own one:eek:.

the "Freelander fans lets hear you" fred is not this one.

Having "just bought one" you havent yet succumbed to the "oh Fook! - not summat else going wrong" scenario, but you will, in time. Especially when it costs yo a couple of internal organs to pay for it:rolleyes:


having sed that - yu mite be one of the lucky few - fingers crossed!
 
Hmmm, as ive just bought one, this is really good fun to read. But im unsure why people who dont own one post on here? Int this for Freelander owners or previous owners to offer help and advice to others? In a POSITIVE way? Im not one for insults, I do not understand how slagging people off can either make you feel better and def make you look better.

Calm down all and remember the actual reason this forum is here. Isnt it entitled "Freelander fans lets hear you"?

Ive just bought one and like to get involved in communities/clubs etc think i might be barking up the wrong tree here. Same every single thread.

Sharpie me laddo, yer rasise a coupla good points, but there's landy sites n' landy sites. Have a read of these, yer'll see what I mean.

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/freelander-2-5-v6-totally-dead-electrics-help-58136.html

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f37/welcome-all-new-members-48502.html

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/info-newbies-46641.html

If yer stay, pull up a chair at Mingey's bar, give as good as yer get, and yer'll see the best advice you'll ever get re yer landy.There's threads here make me smile, others make me cry wit laughin, but there's nowt yet has made me fink bout leaving, despite wot some of the this shud be an 'advice only' forum merchants wud have yer believe. Don't take it too serious, there's more to life.
 
Hi Sharpe.. There is actually some decent advice to be found on here if you can read past the crap that keeps getting thrown round about how much its gonna cost yer..

Basically there are a few who have had problems (no-one is trying to say that a freelander is going to be fault free) and from what I can see by their past posts have obviously not listened to well infomed unbiased judgement but chosen to take the advice of the burn it brigade...

A certain vociferous contributor on this forum has by his own words, owned a freelander that has had a thermostat problem, who did in their ignorance put said motor into the hands of a garage that obviously (and they were told so at the time) did not know a4se from elbow.

The garage for some unknown reason removed the cylinder heads from motor billing both contributor and his insurers/warranty company vast amounts of money in the process.... Like anything that had been messed about by people that dont understand it only lasted a couple of weeks and whatever unneccesary repair they had done went tits up again.

They now claim they had 2 head gasket failures costing £Ks in as many weeks and like to spend their evening shouting this to whoever will listen and normally (well done boys you seem a bit quieter this week) their advice seems to be sell or burn...with the main reason being "it happened to mine"

There are others that just think they know a lot more than they actually do (see above) and again like to shout about..

Must admit I find the attitude of some of the regular members completely anti-freelander (maybe its just to keep a high post count??) and its no wonder so many freelander owners pop in once or twice and go elsewhere.

There are plenty of other forums around some a bit too sanitised and PC now, but if your happy to give it back then join in.
 
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