Engine seized 300tdi

flat said:

Okay so new belt, new tensioner, new pushrods and HG and see if it works.

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That's the plan, shame I'm now working for the next six days straight

Yep, that is the later pulley type AFAIK.

Cheers

So the question is still "why did it shred the belt?"

I take it nothing else is seized? idler ? tensioner?

Cheers

neilly said:

So the question is still "why did it shred the belt?"

I take it nothing else is seized? idler ? tensioner?

Cheers

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Nothing, everything seems to turn OK by hand, all I can think is it's either a faulty belt or my installation of it. The belt itself was actually stuck together and I had to cut it off the pulley

Possible causes:
1. Duff new belt - unlikely.
2. Incorrectly tensioned, did you set it up with a dial torque wrench?
3. Tensioner or idler bearing failure (were they new?).
4. Tensioner or idler nut not torqued correctly
5 FIP not correctly aligned, loosen FIP mountings including bracket at back and re-torque before you fit the belt.
6. Damaged crank, FIP or cam sprocket teeth.
7. Camshaft end float too great.
You should know whether 3, 4, 6 or 7 are the cause, 2 and 5 would be the main suspects
Also check your tappet followers while the head is off in case the bottom of the pushrod damaged them, hopefully a fairly easy 'standard' fix.

As Kwakerman says above....belt tension is accomplished by using either a dial torque wrench or a swing arm torque wrench.

Tension up, rotate the engine twice and then do the tensioning again....

I am sure you know this already.

I'll be honest I best guessed the tension cos I'd smashed my dial gauge in the back of my tratter
I just hope that it hasn't goosed the bearing by the crank pulley by having the belt wrapped around cos I can't face another strip down and rebuild of the bottom of the engine

I did wonder about belt on the first page of this thread, keep your chin up with it, at least you now know where your going. I wouldn't worry too much about the scoring of the bores, provided you can't feel anything suspect with a finger nail. It is showing signs of ring wear and slight glazing, but it's nothing a good hone out shouldn't get rid of.
I've done quiet a few cam belts on these and to be perfectly honest, I've never yet used a dial gauge to set the belt tension. Get it so the longest run of belt will twist through no more than 90 degrees with finger and thumb. I know it's a matter of feel and experience, but it can be done the old school way.
Besides, 6 days in work will give you chance to calm down and start a fresh lol.

Marmaduke said:

That's the plan, shame I'm now working for the next six days straight

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At least you'll have the money for the new parts

Will ask my mate nicely if I can borrow his snap on dial torque wrench if you like? He may say no as he uses it for a living in his workshop lol but

Marmaduke said:

That's the plan, shame I'm now working for the next six days straight

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I don't have a dial torque wrench sorry, I borrowed one to do mine or I would lend it

I reckon I got mine off ebay for less than 10 quid. Atleast you've found the cause and it'll all be back together soon pal

mick the builder said:

At least you'll have the money for the new parts

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Unfortunately I still need to recoup the money from buying this engine, renting a car for two weeks and hiring a van to fetch the engine, an oil cooler pipe failed on my old engine just after Christmas so it's been a bit relentless recently. Hopefully buying a car in the next few days though as a run around cos it was bloody cold this morning on my lads scooter

Those draper dial gauges are cheap on eBay, and probably just as inaccurate as more expensive ones!

I've since purchased a replacement one thanks for the offer and to be honest if I'd got a snap on one I wouldn't let it out of my sight

Marmaduke said:

I've since purchased a replacement one thanks for the offer and to be honest if I'd got a snap on one I wouldn't let it out of my sight

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It's chrom aswell which probably took up half the cost lol

flat said:

It's chrom aswell which probably took up half the cost lol

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Exactly, would you lend one to someone who you didn't know, I know I wouldn't

Marmaduke said:

Exactly, would you lend one to someone who you didn't know, I know I wouldn't

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But but he would lend it to me and I could bring it over.

Easier and cheaper to buy a cheapie off eBay though.

Marmaduke said:

I thought that this was the later one already fitted

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I might be wrong, but the first thing I noticed on this photo was the thicker ring on the front of the crank pulley - is this right?

cf this pic of my 300 https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/non-edc-timing-in-auto.296205/page-2#post-3686422

doesn't look the same to my eyes ( which ain't the best, before some smart ar** comments)

only trying to help

early engines had the rim on the tensioner, and not on the crank
there was an upgrade kit that removed the rim from the tensioner, and added it to the crank

this is what happens if you fit a new tensioner, without fitting the new crank pulley -

oops - i realise what you are saying is that, maybe, the pulley is on back to front, right?