Engine seized 300tdi

julianf said:

early engines had the rim on the tensioner, and not on the crank
there was an upgrade kit that removed the rim from the tensioner, and added it to the crank

this is what happens if you fit a new tensioner, without fitting the new crank pulley -

Click to expand...

Thats a right mess.........someone made a bit of a booboo.

julianf said:

early engines had the rim on the tensioner, and not on the crank
there was an upgrade kit that removed the rim from the tensioner, and added it to the crank

this is what happens if you fit a new tensioner, without fitting the new crank pulley -

Click to expand...

Ooo I've got a set like that

julianf said:

oops - i realise what you are saying is that, maybe, the pulley is on back to front, right?

Click to expand...

The pulley only goes on one way because it pushes through an oil seal in the casing

right - i did not think there was an option.

when you refit the belt with the gauge, i guess you will be able to compare the tension set with tools, with your memory of the tension you set 'by eye'

hopefully, you will consider them different enough to be the cause of the issue. if you think they are both the same, then that would be of more concern.

julianf said:

oops - i realise what you are saying is that, maybe, the pulley is on back to front, right?

Click to expand...

No probs Yep, that's what I meant

Marmaduke said:

The pulley only goes on one way because it pushes through an oil seal in the casing

Click to expand...

Indeed it does - never seen a pulley with such a wide lip before

I had similar symptoms to you when my timing belt failed last year. Quite a bad failure too like yours.

After refitting the new timing belt kit, new push rods & rocker arms we stuck the crank damper on and ran the engine up without the timing cover on for a short while. To see if we could see any issues as to why the belt had failed.

What we did notice was, the belt was running off the back of the FIP and cam sprocket (you could see it within minutes). It must have been running off gradually over a couple of thousand miles and rubbing on the engine casing, eventually snapping. The belt hadn't been fitted too long.

Anyway, we swapped the cam and FIP sprockets over, which in turn the belt was grabbing on the other side of the teeth. And it's been absolutely perfect ever since. I'm not sure if the sprockets wear at a certain milage, or even warp in someway. But all I can say is, it fixed mine.

I just wanted to throw that out there in case you end up having the same trouble.

I would definitely go over everything this time and like d90 says run with cover off just to make sure it doesn't happen again as something must of caused it to fail.

danny6801 said:

I would definitely go over everything this time and like d90 says run with cover off just to make sure it doesn't happen again as something must of caused it to fail.

Click to expand...

Probably me over tightening it dan

Marmaduke said:

Probably me over tightening it dan

Click to expand...

More than likely but if it happens to not be you over tightening it then you don't wanna not check it and it goes again..

Marmaduke said:

Probably me over tightening it dan

Click to expand...

We all live and learn mate at least it can be fixed and you hopefully don't get rid of it will be nice to see it out again soon.

When I last did a timing belt I had lost my dial-type torque wrench and so I improvised by hanging a bottle with a calculated amount of water on the end of a 3' bar to give the correct torque while I did up the bolt with the 'click' type one.

Running with the cover off -

The crank dampener bolt has to be done up tight, so how does running with the cover off work with this?

What i mean is, i guess there is a reason why it has to be so tight, so... (?)

You still fit the pulley and damper bolt. That is what holds the timing belt crank sprocket in place. Wont need the full torque for a 5 min run, just kin tight!

Marmaduke said:

I think I may have found the culprit sadly,

Brand new dayco timing belt that's now one solid lump. Doesn't explain the scoring though but it's that fine I can't feel anything. I'm thinking that the oil came in through the valves when the belt went and the pushrods bent

Click to expand...

Looks like the yarns wrapped round the bobbin.
Have yer fixed it yet?
Have tools will travel.

Hippo said:

Looks like the yarns wrapped round the bobbin.
Have yer fixed it yet?
Have tools will travel.

Click to expand...

Hippo,

Is that a metric or imperial adjustable spanner?

neilly said:

Hippo,

Is that a metric or imperial adjustable spanner?

Click to expand...

The pic shows it as metric but if you turn it over on it's other side it's imperial. Clever eh.

So You can only tighten Metric and undo Imperial!!!

That sucks.

neilly said:

So You can only tighten Metric and undo Imperial!!!

That sucks.

Click to expand...

No, it tightens and untightens both. You just need to remember to turn it over to the correct side for imperial/metric.

An adjustable spanner can only be used in one direction due to the nature of the jaws....to tighten use it one way and to loosen, flip it over....keeps the torque on the fixed jaw and not the movable.