Diff Lock Help!!!

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B3aker

B3aker

Well-Known Member
Posts
1,425
Location
Cambridgeshire.
I'm not sure if my diff lock is locking properly, the light on the dash comes on but im only getting drive on one wheel front and back still, How can i test to see if it is working correctly???

Also im not sure if the clutch is on its way out? What should it feel like on a Td5?? its done 118,000..

Thank you muchly in advance!
 
B3aker said:
I'm not sure if my diff lock is locking properly, the light on the dash comes on but im only getting drive on one wheel front and back still, How can i test to see if it is working correctly???

Also im not sure if the clutch is on its way out? What should it feel like on a Td5?? its done 118,000..

Thank you muchly in advance!
Click to expand...

Not wanting to make you sound stoopid, do you know what the difflock actually does? How have you tested which wheels have drive and which don't?

is the biting point high or low on the pedal? high means worn clutch low means new clutch. what does the pedal feel like when you press it? soft and then firm? constant right through? more info needed.
 
I got stuck in a muddy hole at the weekend and engaging diff lock made no differance to which wheels had drive.

as for the clutch, when you put the clutch in it's very loose to the point it bites and then very hard after, and it bites at about half way.

I don't mind being called stoopid, it me first landy so its all learning!
 
B3aker said:
I got stuck in a muddy hole at the weekend and engaging diff lock made no differance to which wheels had drive.

as for the clutch, when you put the clutch in it's very loose to the point it bites and then very hard after, and it bites at about half way.

I don't mind being called stoopid, it me first landy so its all learning!
Click to expand...

difflock locks the front and rear prop shaft together. IT DOES NOT LOCK ALL 4 WHEELS TOGETHER. If you lose traction on a front wheel and a rear wheel it can stop you dead in your tracks. It's known as getting cross axled. If you jacked one side of your landy up in the air with difflock engaged, the drive would be transmitted through the easiest route (the 2 wheels in the air) so you would be immobile. If you lost traction purely on 1 wheel on 1 axle the other axle should still pull you out.

loose as in almost floppy on the pedal or loose as in feeling their but not anywhere near as much as the bit after the bite?
 
Sounds like your centre diff lock (transfer box) is working OK from what you describe.
You need locking diffs on both axles plus the centre diff lock to ensure drive to all wheels. But then you cant go round corners.
 
From that the diff is working proper then, thank you i am a numptie!

loose at its resting point, and gets harder as you put your foot down on it.
 
and another point is off road driving needs some work by the sounds of it. You engage difflock before you need it same with low range. Were you at whaddon? If so when you turn in engage difflock then low range when you start to play. Ignore the fools telling you about transmission wind up. It will only screw your trans if you are on tarmac with lots of grip driving for miles. Far too many people do not understand. Have witnessed many people driving around whaddon in the wet with their center diff open in high range. This could cause problems within the centre diff as loosing and gaining grip front to rear sends the diff center billio and could damage it internally.

P.s you can tell by engine revs the driver is in even wehen they tell you to your face they are in low box when they quite blatently are in high range. You can tell straight away

Jai
 
Yer i was at Whaddon, I was in low range, i shall make sure i engage diff lock next time when i get there!!

Thanks for the advice :)
 
I'd just add that engaging Diff Lock also increases your turning circle so in some circumstances, such as when trialing you might not want it in e.g. in and out of trees, unless you're expecting traction problems.

My TD5 90 clutch is progressive starting to disengage about an inch from the top and starting to engage about half way up. The pedal moves freely but feels 'stiff' due to the ruddy great spring in the clutch plate. Perhaps your clutch hydraulics need bleeding, also check the fluid level. If the pedal squeeks it's the spindle in the pedal box which needs lubricating, that's under the bonnet next to the servo. A square metal cover plate held in with 6 screws keeps the water out when your wading, remove it and grease in there avoiding the master cylider rubbers. Dont forget to put the plate back or you'll be sorry!
Cheers
 
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