2010 Defender 90 first questions

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nocker65

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First post so be easy on me!!

I have just purchased a Defender 90 and could do with a couple of questions answered please!

1) The fob & key work the central locking on the two front doors only. The back door does not lock with either, although if I open the back door the alarm goes off (when the front are locked). Any ideas please?

2) When I get it working how do I lock the vehicle leaving the dogs inside without the alarm going off?

3) The heater blows hot only even if turning dial to cold, how do I get it blowing cold if we have some decent weather?

Thank you in advance.
 
I will say Welcome first :) .

So first off did it all work correctly when you got it? How long have you had it? could you take it back to the seller to get it sorted?

If the alarm is going off something electrical isn't working properly.
As for the heating I don't know 2010 is rather new so would expect electronics involved. But historically they will be hot when you need cool and cold when you need heat:oops:.
See the theme🤔.
Have you looked for a good manual to help understand what happens? How DIYeee are you?

If its a keeper or even long term, diagnostic equipment is always recommended. This would also allow you to switch something to be able to leave your dog.

It maybe something as easy as to just use the key to lock rather than the fob.

A few here have newer 1s and they will be along soon I am sure.

Enjoy it, got any pics:).

J


J
 
On point 2, Marjon is correct. Locking with the key sets the immobiliser, but not the alarm. If you lock with the key, you must unlock with the key and not the fob, as not doing this will set the alarm off.
On point 3, the heater knob turns a valve on the engine cooling system feed to the heater, via a pair of cables. Check that the valve is fully closed when the knob is turned to cold. The valve is located in the rubber hoses at the passenger side of the engine, near the bulkhead. I will see if I have a diagram and post it.
Edit; may be just a single cable on the valve.
 
Last edited:
Should be enough info in the attachments to enable you to check the cable adjustment. If you haven't got air con, just open a window in hot weather. That's the normal defender method ----
 

Attachments

  • Land Rover Defender MY07 Workshop Manual Complete (dragged).pdf
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  • Land Rover Defender MY07 Workshop Manual Complete (dragged) 2.pdf
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  • Land Rover Defender MY07 Workshop Manual Complete (dragged) 3.pdf
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  • Land Rover Defender MY07 Workshop Manual Complete (dragged) 4.pdf
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nocker65 said:
1) The fob & key work the central locking on the two front doors only. The back door does not lock with either, although if I open the back door the alarm goes off (when the front are locked). Any ideas please?
Click to expand...
Once the alarm is activated (by locking with the fob) the alarm will sound when it senses internal movement, that is happening when you open the rear door. It should not happen if you lock with the key and not the fob, give it a try to test this.
When you stand at the rear door and press the fob locking button, can you hear a "thud" from the solenoid inside the rear door? That should tell you that the solenoid is working or not. But as you say the key does not work in the rear door either, so I would suspect a faulty lock mechanism.
 
Does the alarm work off the interior light switch on a-pillar and b-pillar or the operation of the door catch?
Could be the wire loom between b-post and rear doors are broken. It thinks it's locked so sets the alarm, you open rear door, registers a voltage drop and alarm goes off?
Warning ⚠️ I might have made all of that up!
 
Wimblowdriver said:
Once the alarm is activated (by locking with the fob) the alarm will sound when it senses internal movement, that is happening when you open the rear door. It should not happen if you lock with the key and not the fob, give it a try to test this.
When you stand at the rear door and press the fob locking button, can you hear a "thud" from the solenoid inside the rear door? That should tell you that the solenoid is working or not. But as you say the key does not work in the rear door either, so I would suspect a faulty lock mechanism.
Click to expand...
Hi Wimblowdriver
Yes there is a thud at the back door so I guess the solenoid is working.
Thank you for the manuals too, much appreciated.
 
nocker65 said:
Yes there is a thud at the back door so I guess the solenoid is working.
Click to expand...
That points to there being something wrong with the lock itself. Use the search function, top right of this forum page, there are a few threads on this topic which might point towards an answer to your issue.
 
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nocker65 said:
Hi Wimblowdriver
Yes there is a thud at the back door so I guess the solenoid is working.
Thank you for the manuals too, much appreciated.
Click to expand...
I missed the bit about it being a 90 and thought you meant the rear doors and not the back door, sorry.
All the same it is common for wires to break in the rubber sleeves to any of the doors.
Take the back door inner trim off, easy, and have a better look for the problem. At Land Rover prices you don't want to be changing parts for no reason.
 
Might not need to go as far as taking the door trim out. Reading a few of the threads on this topic, it might just be the latching out of adjustment. With the door open, try the key and see if the lock does what it is supposed to do. If it does, probably needs adjustment, to latch properly.
 
Wimblowdriver said:
Might not need to go as far as taking the door trim out. Reading a few of the threads on this topic, it might just be the latching out of adjustment. With the door open, try the key and see if the lock does what it is supposed to do. If it does, probably needs adjustment, to latch properly.
Click to expand...
That's a good point, two positions on the catch if I remember correctly?
 
Wimblowdriver said:
Might not need to go as far as taking the door trim out. Reading a few of the threads on this topic, it might just be the latching out of adjustment. With the door open, try the key and see if the lock does what it is supposed to do. If it does, probably needs adjustment, to latch properly.
Click to expand...
Thanks for info, I can now lock the door on the key but not the fob. I can live with that for the time being.

Excellent help thank you.
 
Wimblowdriver said:
Might not need to go as far as taking the door trim out. Reading a few of the threads on this topic, it might just be the latching out of adjustment. With the door open, try the key and see if the lock does what it is supposed to do. If it does, probably needs adjustment, to latch properly.
Click to expand...
It was actually the catch catching on the door panel, Ive stanley knifed some of the plastic away & it now works perfectly on the fob & key!!
 
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