Diesel P38 radiator baffle or not

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NikTheGeek

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This:
Range Rover P38 2.5 BMW Turbo Diesel Automatic Radiator - p38spares.co.uk
or
Radiator P38 2.5TD (Manual & Auto) PCC108460 PCC108470 Island 4x4 - Specialists in Land Rover and Range Rover Parts and accessories for all models. UK and worldwide mail order.
or
PCC108460 | Radiator - without oil cooler - Turbo Diesel

Is the radiator I have in my P38.

I've replaced the water pump today and there was nothing at all wrong with it. It was in perfect condition. But at least it'll now last longer.

It doesn't explain why my air con fans are coming on. Except that the radiator I have (replacing my burst one) doesn't have a baffle. I did the marble test and rolled in one end and it came out the other. Eventually. It got stuck and I had to shake it, but it came out.

ALS in Dorset who replaced my radiator said there was only 1 type for my automatic diesel p38 and fitted it. All those sites above only have 1 listed and it's the one I have.

So what gives? Has there been a design change? Surely with 2 hoses going in from the top, it can't cool properly.

Nik
 
The reason your air con fans are coming on is BECAUSE there is no baffle in the rad. It HAS to have one. Hot coolant comes in at top N/S and is forced by baffle down N/S and up O/S to exit at top. If there is no baffle it flows across the top of the rad and never gets circulated through rad for cooling.
 
The Diesel Rad MUST have the baffle to function correctly....

As you correctly say, the two hoses at the top means it has to have the baffle...else the coolant will just flow in onside and out the other without circulating the rad.

ALS have got it wrong IMHO
 
Yeah, but are the all duff then? As it's the EXACT same one (completed with blanked-off & unused bottom hose connectors) as I have. Island, Paddocks, P38spares and Britpart (via phone) say that there is only one and I have the correct one. But it has no baffle. And the bottom of the radiator was still cold to the touch even after the car was up to temp.

Trouble is, even if I right this one off, what do I get as a replacement?

See marble test video :) Range Roer P38 replacement radiator but no baffle - YouTube

Nik
 
Yeah, but are the all duff then? As it's the EXACT same one (completed with blanked-off & unused bottom hose connectors) as I have. Island, Paddocks, P38spares and Britpart (via phone) say that there is only one and I have the correct one. But it has no baffle. And the bottom of the radiator was still cold to the touch even after the car was up to temp.

Trouble is, even if I right this one off, what do I get as a replacement?

See marble test video :) Range Roer P38 replacement radiator but no baffle - YouTube

Nik

Sounds like you need to talk to the suppliers to find out if any of them really know their P38s. Then ask for a guarantee that the rad that they supply will have a baffle or give you a full refund.
Then you could return your current rad for a refund as it's unfit for purpose and ALS should be grateful that they're not paying for a cracked head.
 
Yeah, but are the all duff then? As it's the EXACT same one (completed with blanked-off & unused bottom hose connectors) as I have. Island, Paddocks, P38spares and Britpart (via phone) say that there is only one and I have the correct one. But it has no baffle. And the bottom of the radiator was still cold to the touch even after the car was up to temp.

Trouble is, even if I right this one off, what do I get as a replacement?

See marble test video :) Range Roer P38 replacement radiator but no baffle - YouTube

Nik

If it does not have a baffle, IT IS NO GOOD. It MUST have a baffle to work properly. Anyone who says different is talking a load of bollocks. All those suppliers need to get their act together if that is what they are saying. They need to contact their suppliers, possibly in China or India and tell them they are prats. If the rad does not have a baffle it is not fit for purpose.
 
Nik.
Print this out and show to supplier.
As above, you know the answer.
If you can't get one get one made up by a local rad builder from your old one or a scrap one.
 
Actually P38 spares aren't too far from me.
I could go down there and do the marble test.
If I have problems I can challenge to do the same on mine.
 
These people are shopkeepers, not mechanics, they know sod all about the bits they sell other than the part number. They really do need to be informed they could be costing someone a serious amount of repair money selling parts that will not do the job.
 
These people are shopkeepers, not mechanics, they know sod all about the bits they sell other than the part number. They really do need to be informed they could be costing someone a serious amount of repair money selling parts that will not do the job.

Sadly many so called "mechanics" today are little more than parts people with a spanner in their hand.
 
Sadly many so called "mechanics" today are little more than parts people with a spanner in their hand.

You can't learn how to be one doing a NVQ course that's for sure. I once worked at a place where the most technically qualified (at least on paper, he had an HND) lad in the shop was the worse mechanic by a very long way. It seems there are a lot about these days. You don't even have to do a 5 year apprenticeship now just a Micky mouse NVQ and your a TECH apparently. Most main dealer lads now will have never seen inside a gearbox or engine except on photographs maybe. They are just service bay attendants who on occasion swap an old bit for a new bit, if the truth be known.
 
Could it just be the baffle has fallen away...it has been known, even on new rads, for the baffle to be broken inside????

Hopefully for the sake of anyone else buying one! Because if it's a design fault, there'll be loads of issues for a load of people.

If I get a replacement, I may take the top off and look. But that depends on what I have to do with this 1 month old one as it should be under warranty.

Nik
 
Hopefully for the sake of anyone else buying one! Because if it's a design fault, there'll be loads of issues for a load of people.

If I get a replacement, I may take the top off and look. But that depends on what I have to do with this 1 month old one as it should be under warranty.

Nik
Don't take the top off....instead do the 'Marble' Test'

Place a marble in on opening and if it rolls to the other end - the baffle is missing or broken....if it doesn't and gets topped in the middle, there is a baffle. Simples (squeak)!!
 
Hopefully for the sake of anyone else buying one! Because if it's a design fault, there'll be loads of issues for a load of people.

If I get a replacement, I may take the top off and look. But that depends on what I have to do with this 1 month old one as it should be under warranty.

Nik

Or preferably use a Boroscope. Send it back it is no good.
 
Hopefully for the sake of anyone else buying one! Because if it's a design fault, there'll be loads of issues for a load of people.

If I get a replacement, I may take the top off and look. But that depends on what I have to do with this 1 month old one as it should be under warranty.

Nik

I replied to your post saying you will take the top off...so I said no need to take the top off (don't think you can in anycase) just do the Marble Test.....

I never implied you didn't know the marble test as you had mentioned it earlier in the thread (as you kindly note above)....just trying to stop you needlessly removing a potentially unremovable top!
 
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