csw back windows to single pane? any photos?

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julianf

julianf

Well-Known Member
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Location
Devon, UK
Its been asked before, but I can't find any conclusions.

I'm talking about replacing the sliding windows at the back of a csw with sing piece, fixed, non opening windows.

I'd want a factory looking finish, which (arguably) rules out the gaffer tape and mastic approach.

So, has anyone done this and has photos to show?
 
I did it to a series 3 109 van years ago.
A glass cutting place did me a pair to my cardboard templates in toughened glass and I fitted them with the rubber seal with the infill (same stuff as small rear windows are held in with) from a windscreen place, sold by the foot.
If you do this, you need the metal thickness and glass thickness worked out first.
There is a company that does what you want and they look great but very expensive!
You can rebuild what you have too, I did that but it was a horrible job and don't recommend that route.
 
I just don't need opening windows in the back, so, whilst I figure I could sort out what's there, I think non-opening ones would actually be better.

So, your advice would be...

Measure glass, metal thickness.
Get sealing strip from windscreen (camper?) place
Make card template
Get glass cut to size.

All seems simple enough.

Possibly glass before strip, but then, I guess, I won't be able to work out the exact od required for the glass?
 
Hmm, not sure you're understood but my bad.
You will have to remove the complete frame yeah?
Measure metal thickness of the body then source the seal next because you can't use any old glass thickness. The glass template will need to be smaller all round to allow for the seal thickness ( look at the cross section of the seal , it looks loosly like a letter H, the thickness of the horizontal - part of the H is what you need to remove off the template) plus a bit more or you'll struggle to get the glass in.
Then get glass to suit the seal.
Few tips- cut the seal over length not exactly what you measure! Then trim off the excess at final fitting.
Use the proper tool to fit the infill strip, its loads easier.
Plenty of soapy water when fitting.
If the metal thickness is too thin, just bond thin strips of ally or plastic on the inside of the aperture.
 
Flossie,

The sliding glass and fixed panels (as on mine) use the same frame. The difference is the channelling.
I've seen solid tinted glass for sale in the past by the big outlets. If you could find some salvage your existing frames and buy new channelling. However the frames have to be seperated to fit a solid piece of what ever.
 
Frame -

i assumed id strip evreything out, leaving just the aluminium panel, and fit to that

im not entirely sure that i know what the 'frame' is though - the runners that the existing glass sits on? i figured id just do away with the lot, however, im not sure what the internal finish will be like then (i need to check if there is any inner cosmetics - only bought the car a short while back, and been concentrating on more pressing areas!)
 
Yes Julian, take out the whole frame, its held in with pop rivits. It's not needed for my discription.I'm assuming you have the later windows and not the late s3/early 110 type though?
 
bluehaze said:
Flossie,

The sliding glass and fixed panels (as on mine) use the same frame. The difference is the channelling.
I've seen solid tinted glass for sale in the past by the big outlets. If you could find some salvage your existing frames and buy new channelling. However the frames have to be seperated to fit a solid piece of what ever.
Click to expand...
That's interesting!
Might be an easier option for Julian and keep the factory look too.
 
These are the windows i assume you have julian?
IMG_20151221_110822635_HDR.jpg
 
bluehaze said:
Flossie,

The sliding glass and fixed panels (as on mine) use the same frame. The difference is the channelling.
I've seen solid tinted glass for sale in the past by the big outlets. If you could find some salvage your existing frames and buy new channelling. However the frames have to be seperated to fit a solid piece of what ever.
Click to expand...
Wierd...I replied to your post but its gone somewhere!
That's an interesting option bluehaze, might be an easier or cheaper option, would also maintain the factory look.
 
Julian, I have the factory blanks in mine. Only when I got them did I realise that the frames were the same as per the glass versions. The sheets sit inside the outer channel which leaves the inner one empty. The inner one can be seen from the inside. I can take a picture tomorrow if you wish.
IMG_20151229_143335.jpg
 
Right - so...

If i sort out the existing rubber etc. and then get the dimensions of the factory blank that you mention, and then get a bit of glass cut to the same dimensions as the blank, then id be sorted?

That sounds easy enough - the only thing im wondering about is that, surely the blanking plate in the photo above is way thinnner than a sheet of glass would be?
 
The channel that the sliding and fixed glass sits in is filled with plastic slide guides iirc and would be massively wide with them removed.
Complete guess but say 20mm maybe?
 
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