Clearing up transmission issues!

Ok, some of you may know Im not exactly a newb as far as LR goes and I do have a reasonable mechanical knowledge, having rebuilt a few defenders, series and even rangies over the years.

BUT, Im at a loss understanding the well known (to everyone else it seems) issues with Freelander drivetrains!

I have very recently aquired a 2.0d 3door 1998 machine that was taken off the road due to "having a knocking in the drive somewhere".

So, if you can help me, is it correct that if I remove the drive from the IRD and fit a blanking plate, possibly remove the prop totally with viscous coupling, this will cure the knocking on decelerating and turning in lock?

The knocking seems to be coming from in line with the seats somewhere, not further back as was said to me by the seller.

Also is the standard practice when making it 2wd and "more economical" is the rear diff removed or left in situe?

Just really trying to clear up what everyone seems to be doing to overcome this "common" problem.

Many thanks in advance, Pete.

the big problem with them is that front wheels are driven slightly faster than rear as they thought freelanders would be bought by front wheel drive car owners and would feel at home with it ,viscous coupling is supposed to take up difference ,but stiffens putting pressure on ird or rear diff eventually leading to failure,changing v/c or removing helps

wot he^^^^^^^^^^^^^ is saying is that it is a ****e system that when (not if) it fails, does so spectacularly, expensively and screws your car and your pocket for months .

and they never produced spare parts for ird and diff etc so i can fix them economically

Ok, so I get it now, one of LR's catastrophic cock ups then ! Lol!

So, the thing is, does it sound like the knocking on this one is typical when it goes wrong, and can I just remove the VC to get by and possibly sell it on as 2wd?

yes

i think the normal thing is removal of whole prop for use and refit when selling

Cheers fellas, looks like Ill remove the prop and weigh it in, oops I mean retain it for off roading following removal for economy reasons, then give it a run and see if it still knocks.

If all sounds ok, I think it may be worth putting back on the road.

Yeah, easy job. Will make the car feel much better if the VCU/IRD/diffs have issues. couple of VCU support brackets in the middle of the car, bolts onto the rear diff and bolts to the IRD up front. Weighs about 20/25kg all in.

It helps if it's on axle stands or garage ramps on your jacking points so you can take the handbrake off and spin the wheels to get access to the bolts all the way round the prop.

If you remove the props and VCU there's no need to blank off the IRD, also never heard of anyone removing the rear diff as I would think the drive shafts etc would also have to be removed.

Cheers for that, Ill be getting under it soon and get the shaft out at least.

Seem to remember there was someone on another thread looking for a prop, so may be worth cashing in as it wont be going back on!

18 stoner said:

Cheers for that, Ill be getting under it soon and get the shaft out at least.

Seem to remember there was someone on another thread looking for a prop, so may be worth cashing in as it wont be going back on!

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easy job and can be done with the truck on a flat surface. 4 bolts in the middle and 4 on the back and 6 on the front and just shove the truck forward a foot to get at the unaccesable bolts then trolly under the prop and lower. job done and no blanking plates needed. half hour job.