Caliper mounting bracket fastener type

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C

Chris Beckey

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I'm replacing rotors (disks) and pads on a '95 Range Rover 4.0SE. The
bracket that holds the calipers, bolts to the axle with a fastener
that looks something like an external Torx (except more points) or a
star-allen. The rear looks to be about 13mm diameter, the front maybe
17mm. Does anyone know the proper name and where (preferably US) I
can find the tool to remove it?

Thanks
 
On 20 Sep 2004 08:01:43 -0700, [email protected] (Chris Beckey)
wrote:

>I'm replacing rotors (disks) and pads on a '95 Range Rover 4.0SE. The
>bracket that holds the calipers, bolts to the axle with a fastener
>that looks something like an external Torx (except more points) or a
>star-allen. The rear looks to be about 13mm diameter, the front maybe
>17mm. Does anyone know the proper name and where (preferably US) I
>can find the tool to remove it?
>

Try a 17mm 12 point socket on it.
I think they are called star head; for obvious reasons.

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In article <[email protected]>, Chris Beckey wrote:
> I'm replacing rotors (disks) and pads on a '95 Range Rover 4.0SE. The
> bracket that holds the calipers, bolts to the axle with a fastener
> that looks something like an external Torx (except more points) or a
> star-allen. The rear looks to be about 13mm diameter, the front maybe
> 17mm. Does anyone know the proper name and where (preferably US) I
> can find the tool to remove it?
>
> Thanks


I've no idea if they're the same or not, but the fronts on my 110 were
1/2". I had to buy a socket just for that. I think I may have used a
13mm on the rear when I did a wheel bearing, suppose I should have got
the 1/2" socket then.

--
simon at sbarr dot demon dot co dot uk
Simon Barr.
'97 110 300Tdi.
 
On or around 20 Sep 2004 16:27:48 GMT, Simon Barr <[email protected]>
enlightened us thusly:

>In article <[email protected]>, Chris Beckey wrote:
>> I'm replacing rotors (disks) and pads on a '95 Range Rover 4.0SE. The
>> bracket that holds the calipers, bolts to the axle with a fastener
>> that looks something like an external Torx (except more points) or a
>> star-allen. The rear looks to be about 13mm diameter, the front maybe
>> 17mm. Does anyone know the proper name and where (preferably US) I
>> can find the tool to remove it?
>>
>> Thanks

>
>I've no idea if they're the same or not, but the fronts on my 110 were
>1/2". I had to buy a socket just for that. I think I may have used a
>13mm on the rear when I did a wheel bearing, suppose I should have got
>the 1/2" socket then.


AFAIK they're 13mm 12-point star, and aren't quite inverse torx, they're
inverse 12-point spline.

effectively, they allow a smaller bolt head which can nonetheless withstand
high torque. In theory, that is,

13mm deep socket is the dog's wotnots for the caliper ones, 12-point one of
course, as it gets the handle clear of the caliper itself. Expect them to
be very tight, they normally I think get loctited when installed. Certainly
do on Fords IME.

 
Austin Shackles wrote:

> 13mm deep socket is the dog's wotnots for the caliper ones, 12-point one
> of
> course, as it gets the handle clear of the caliper itself. Expect them to
> be very tight, they normally I think get loctited when installed.
> Certainly do on Fords IME.


Apart from you want to get a 1/2" socket on the bolt heads because once you
round them off with a loose socket you have a real big problem.....

They are/should be loctited and done up pretty tightly as well. I normally
replace them as I hate looking at them when the heads are iffy.

Regards

William MacLeod
 
On or around Mon, 20 Sep 2004 17:02:54 GMT, William MacLeod
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>Austin Shackles wrote:
>
>> 13mm deep socket is the dog's wotnots for the caliper ones, 12-point one
>> of
>> course, as it gets the handle clear of the caliper itself. Expect them to
>> be very tight, they normally I think get loctited when installed.
>> Certainly do on Fords IME.

>
>Apart from you want to get a 1/2" socket on the bolt heads because once you
>round them off with a loose socket you have a real big problem.....
>
>They are/should be loctited and done up pretty tightly as well. I normally
>replace them as I hate looking at them when the heads are iffy.


since they're metric threads, I suspect they're supposed to be 13mm,
however, a 1/2" will be a nice tight fit assuming it goes on properly.
Might need persuading on with a hammer the first time.

 
Austin Shackles vaguely muttered something like ...

> Might need persuading on with a hammer the first time.


Heheheh, a timeless example of good old British ingenuity .... ;)

--
Paul ...

(8(|) Homer Rules !!!
http://paul-xxx.blogspot.com/ Just started a blog ..
"A tosser is a tosser, no matter what mode of transport they're using."


 
In article <[email protected]>, Austin Shackles wrote:
>
> since they're metric threads, I suspect they're supposed to be 13mm,
> however, a 1/2" will be a nice tight fit assuming it goes on properly.
> Might need persuading on with a hammer the first time.
>


A 13mm seemed a bit loose to me which is why I got the 1/2" socket. It
was a much better fit than the metric one, which felt as if it might round
the heads off if I pulled too hard.

--
simon at sbarr dot demon dot co dot uk
Simon Barr.
'97 110 300Tdi.
 
"Paul - xxx" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Austin Shackles vaguely muttered something like ...
>
> > Might need persuading on with a hammer the first time.

>
> Heheheh, a timeless example of good old British ingenuity .... ;)


Thanks for the help everyone.
 
FWIW...
I got all four rotors on the RR done yesterday. On the rears a 1/2
inch 12 point deep-well socket fits just about perfect. On the fronts
a 19mm 12point shallow-well socket works but is a bit loose. I don't
have a torque number for either end, but neither seemed really
excessive when they came off, the rears with a 3/8" breaker bar and
the fronts with a 1/2" ratchet.
The rear rotors came off easy, the fronts took some persuading. One
of the rotor retaining bolts (phillips head) on the fronts required a
chisel and small grinder to remove. The other three came off pretty
easy (with a really big screwdriver).
My, just slightly experienced, suggestions if you are doing the same
job would include using anti-sieze on the threads and head of the
rotor retaining bolt and around the hub flange (where the rotor
seats). Also, spray some penetrating oil around the rotor retaining
bolt and hub flange a day or so before starting the job.

Thanks again for all the help...
 
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