Freelander 1 Freelander 1 VCU Bearing Replacement - How To Guide

And yes, perhaps 160ml, that is why I bought 200. But practice showed less, at least for me. Not saying is what should be.

Perhaps the power transfer is less than initial design. But, the probability of breaking the IRD is smaller. I hope..

Which way will you take?

the way you recommended, thank you mate

If you need more info, ask. I spent alot on research, Lord Hippo was a big help in the first place. And the Mighty Net.

The Pilgrim said:

If you need more info, ask. I spent alot on research, Lord Hippo was a big help in the first place. And the Mighty Net.

Click to expand...

what I will do is weigh and then open the vcu with a nice clean cut on the lathe, then I will clean it well disk by disk and internally, then I will put everything back to how it was and I will put a little silicone between one disk and the other taking into account how much I have used for each layer, afterwards I will make two opposite holes and thread them by inserting a dowel with threadlocker, then I will have it tig welded and I will put what remains of the 120 ml of 100,000 cts silicone that I had prepared, I reassemble the shaft and test the traction , if there is no rear thrust, I will add 10 ml at a time, I think it is the best way.

If you open vcu by lathe, you'll have to weld carefully and maintain actual axis, including centring everything. That is to have technology at your shop. I did not. Otherwise you may end with some scrap metal.
I bought a sh vcu that I did not have to use, as backup.
So, if you are in a hurry (which you should'nt, because summer is comming) and have tools AND skills to play, go lathe way.

<<I will put a little silicone betweenone disk and the other taking into account how much I have used for each layer, afterwards I will make two opposite holes and thread them by inserting a dowel with threadlocker, then I will have it tig welded >>
Remember weld can:
1. Change silicone's properties
2. Affect rubber from seals
Factory welded vcu and after filled silicone.
My point.

I filled with a new, clean, grease pump. It is hard to measure. Silicone is so thick, it barely pours. You have to be pacient.
You'll have thrust with 120ml. Too much of it, IRD broke will be, as Master Yoda said.

The Pilgrim said:

Ho riempito con una pompa del grasso nuova e pulita. È difficile da misurare. Il silicone è così denso che cola a malapena. Devi essere paziente.
Avrai una spinta con 120 ml. Troppo, IRD sarà rotto, come ha detto il Maestro Yoda.

Click to expand...

The Pilgrim said:

I filled with a new, clean, grease pump. It is hard to measure. Silicone is so thick, it barely pours. You have to be pacient.
You'll have thrust with 120ml. Too much of it, IRD broke will be, as Master Yoda said.

Click to expand...

I will put a little, the minimum amount that serves to be sure that there is lubrication even in the most difficult to reach points between one disc and another, this precisely because that liquid is very dense, due to the axis position I will make a mold in concrete inside a bowl with the vcu half submerged and taking care to seal the bearings, as far as tig welding is concerned, it is the one that heats up the least and if you are patient between one point and another it will not become hotter than when the joint is in full swing in his role.
you just have to make sure my dear friend that 120 ml is a good starting measure, thank you.
(to make the silicone slide better I think I will grease the inside of my syringe with a little food vaseline)

The best method to use to get the old fluid out is drill two diagonal opposing holes, as said above. Let it drain out, then wash out with chemicals. Then rinse. Then pump in new fluid. You don't need to worry about putting the fluid between plates. It will easily mix round by itself. The fluid drops slowly due to gravity when yer Freelander is stationary. If you cut it open then you risk welding it unbalanced. The vcu spins quite fast when driving at 70mph. Even a slight imbalance will cause significant vibration.

Hippo said:

The best method to use to get the old fluid out is drill two diagonal opposing holes, as said above. Let it drain out, then wash out with chemicals. Then rinse. Then pump in new fluid. You don't need to worry about putting the fluid between plates. It will easily mix round by itself. The fluid drops slowly due to gravity when yer Freelander is stationary. If you cut it open then you risk welding it unbalanced. The vcu spins quite fast when driving at 70mph. Even a slight imbalance will cause significant vibration.

Click to expand...

how can you be sure that despite multiple washings there is no old silicone between the discs knowing how dense and old it is!?

Gain Cobain said:

how can you be sure that despite multiple washings there is no old silicone between the discs knowing how dense and old it is!?

Click to expand...

There's a number of peeps who have done this already, using harsh chemicals. If there were a small amount of old fluid left, it's not a big problem.

Hippo said:

There's a number of peeps who have done this already, using harsh chemicals. If there were a small amount of old fluid left, it's not a big problem.

Click to expand...

so could I even make the holes by threading them and injecting the chemical product and closing the holes taking advantage of the car's natural rotation to carry out the various washes without even disassembling the shaft?

And please, do not mix chemicals. I wouldn't. So, no food grease. Let it in by itself. And by the pump, of course.

Gain Cobain said:

so could I even make the holes by threading them and injecting the chemical product and closing the holes taking advantage of the car's natural rotation to carry out the various washes without even disassembling the shaft?

Click to expand...

Perhaps yes, but ca you control the moment when discs have more thinner than silicone between them?

But you can do it on the lathe I guess.