auto gearbox issue?, car revs up to 3500 from 1 to 2

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
if all the conditions were met(you didnt miss point 2. this time, i mean the temp gauge was at the middle was it?) then it passed the stall test but very close to the clutch slip limit... do the MIL and the M & S warnings work on self test?
 
yes, I took the car for a ride and when the gauge was on the midle I did the test.
What do you mean on self test? When I turn the key on and all the lights show up? If yes, than all seems to be ok.

Today I have changed the oil 2nd time and also clean the red connector of the ECU (it was a bit oily). The car run a bit better (only one time did the 1from2 change over 3krpm) . I will try again tomorrow morning when the oil is cold.
 
Last edited:
if there's the oil in the red plug replace the injector loom ASAP, cleaning it doesnt cure things just partially ...though the CAN for communication with transmission ECU is there in the red plug too so oil ingress might affect contact

yes self check is when you turn ignition to II and the warning lamps all come on... i asked about the green M & S and MIL warnings to make sure you dont have a fault warning but the lamps dont work
 
so this morning i tried the car again... It was running nice when the engine was cold, I was suprised. But after about 10 min when i stopped and turned back the rpm went up again to about 4000 and changed after only. I stopped and tried again with hard acceleration, went up to almost 5000!
Tried again with slow acceleration, changed around 2200. After it I tested several times, no issue again.
I have also did stall test again, result 2700.
is there something what else I should check or better to take it now to a specialist?
Can be fault code read from ECU if there is no M/S or MIL warning?

If the gearbox has to be dismantled anyway, is it worth to do a complete renewal? I mean, the complete renewal is quite expensive, will it last for years again? Anyone has any experience?
 
Last edited:
Haven't read much of this but i have a 300 auto and it done the hold on to 3500k thing

BUT

It was stood up for 4 month, fine before it was left for 4 months when I took it out for the first 4 runs it held on to gears and was quite harsh, now it smooth and changes around 2.2k and into top at 52mph since it's been back on the road it's done 300 miles

Now it's undergoing a massive service overhaul and I have sampled all oils it's got water in the gearbox oil as well as the rear milky white oil in the rear axel

I would say that is my problem it's obviously mixed up enough now it works but it's getting changed the box has done 108k

How the water got there ...?
 
There is a design feature within the electronics plan whereby the EATS (Electronic Auto Trans System) ecu and the engine ECM talk to each other permanently.

In order to encourage engine warm-up, the ECM tells the EATS to remain longer in the lower gears, this is, in part, what you are experiencing.

I would say that you need to leave the car a little longer before sending it to a garage.

Drive the car normally, no test-style driving, and see if it settles down. It will be washing the interior of the autobox as it has a form of detergent action.


Just as an aside, when you did the second oilchange, what condition was the oil that you emptied out, was is bright red or still a bit brownish?

If it was still mucky, drain out (into a clear-sided glass jam-jar) a small amount of the 'box oil and leave it to settle for 24hrs. Then examine it's colour makeup.

In view of the fact that the previous owner was a bit tardy about gearbox oilchanges, you might need to do 1 more change before you've gotten rid of all the old stuff.

Good luck

Dave
 
thebiglad said:
There is a design feature within the electronics plan whereby the EATS (Electronic Auto Trans System) ecu and the engine ECM talk to each other permanently.

In order to encourage engine warm-up, the ECM tells the EATS to remain longer in the lower gears, this is, in part, what you are experiencing.

I would say that you need to leave the car a little longer before sending it to a garage.

Drive the car normally, no test-style driving, and see if it settles down. It will be washing the interior of the autobox as it has a form of detergent action.


Just as an aside, when you did the second oilchange, what condition was the oil that you emptied out, was is bright red or still a bit brownish?

If it was still mucky, drain out (into a clear-sided glass jam-jar) a small amount of the 'box oil and leave it to settle for 24hrs. Then examine it's colour makeup.

In view of the fact that the previous owner was a bit tardy about gearbox oilchanges, you might need to do 1 more change before you've gotten rid of all the old stuff.

Good luck

Dave
Click to expand...
thanks Dave,

The oil at the 2nd time was also brown.
I will keep using the car and see what happenes.
 
Last edited:
thebiglad said:
There is a design feature within the electronics plan whereby the EATS (Electronic Auto Trans System) ecu and the engine ECM talk to each other permanently.

In order to encourage engine warm-up, the ECM tells the EATS to remain longer in the lower gears, this is, in part, what you are experiencing.

I would say that you need to leave the car a little longer before sending it to a garage.

Drive the car normally, no test-style driving, and see if it settles down. It will be washing the interior of the autobox as it has a form of detergent action.


Just as an aside, when you did the second oilchange, what condition was the oil that you emptied out, was is bright red or still a bit brownish?

If it was still mucky, drain out (into a clear-sided glass jam-jar) a small amount of the 'box oil and leave it to settle for 24hrs. Then examine it's colour makeup.

In view of the fact that the previous owner was a bit tardy about gearbox oilchanges, you might need to do 1 more change before you've gotten rid of all the old stuff.

Good luck

Dave
Click to expand...

I have used the car several times, sometimes it is fine, sometimes it changes late (does not mater if it cold or hot). I also put back the old MAF to see if there is any influence, no.
The oil what I have drained out 2nd time is still brown compared to the new one. See photo.
Do you think I should drain it one more time? Or it means that something is wrong in the box...
 

Attachments

  • 20140302303.jpg
    20140302303.jpg
    381.2 KB · Views: 149
berg450 said:
I have used the car several times, sometimes it is fine, sometimes it changes late (does not mater if it cold or hot). I also put back the old MAF to see if there is any influence, no.
The oil what I have drained out 2nd time is still brown compared to the new one. See photo.
Do you think I should drain it one more time? Or it means that something is wrong in the box...
Click to expand...

If the stuff in the rhs bottle is the oil after the 2nd oilchange I would DEFINITELY be changing it again.
 
Yes, could be clutch pack...as the problem happens now any time (not just when it cold) and also in other gears when I accelerate the rpm goes up, I think, too quick before she starts to pull.
So, is there no way to renew? I have found many places on internet who renewing boxes in Great Britain. Is it a reliable soluiton, I mean, after such repair the box will last for about 100kkm?
I have found one used box in Hungary for about 1000€, but there is no quarante (the dealer says that the box is a renewed one from Great Britain, but after 50km the car had an accident and sold as spare part:))
 
berg450 said:
Yes, could be clutch pack...as the problem happens now any time (not just when it cold) and also in other gears when I accelerate the rpm goes up, I think, too quick before she starts to pull.
So, is there no way to renew? I have found many places on internet who renewing boxes in Great Britain. Is it a reliable soluiton, I mean, after such repair the box will last for about 100kkm?
I have found one used box in Hungary for about 1000€, but there is no quarante (the dealer says that the box is a renewed one from Great Britain, but after 50km the car had an accident and sold as spare part:))
Click to expand...

boxes can be very successfully repaired,often its only 1 or 2 clutch packs and the rest of the box is perfect ,odd times you find boxes that have been run too long with a fault and damage has occurred to most parts making the box uneconomic to repair ,if fitting a previously used box which is an ok solution check remnants of oil in it if not perfectly clean dont fit box
 
I have already checked possibilities here in hungary, not so many...
There are only a few repair shops specialized for auto boxes and I can not find anything about their experience. One has recommended by a Land Rover repair shop, but they want to complatelly rebuild the box for about 1300€ (and 10kkm or half year warranty).
I have found only 1 used box for about 600€ with no oil in it.

So this is why I am hesitating to bring the car to a shop, and asking questions which could help me to solve the problem by myself...

The repair shop which wants to rebuild told that most probably the clutch is slipping. But if the stall test (which were done 2 times) is OK, isn't it against this theory?
An other Land Rover specialist told me that maybe a valve block cleaning would be enough.?
 
berg450 said:
I have already checked possibilities here in hungary, not so many...
There are only a few repair shops specialized for auto boxes and I can not find anything about their experience. One has recommended by a Land Rover repair shop, but they want to complatelly rebuild the box for about 1300€ (and 10kkm or half year warranty).
I have found only 1 used box for about 600€ with no oil in it.

So this is why I am hesitating to bring the car to a shop, and asking questions which could help me to solve the problem by myself...

The repair shop which wants to rebuild told that most probably the clutch is slipping. But if the stall test (which were done 2 times) is OK, isn't it against this theory?
An other Land Rover specialist told me that maybe a valve block cleaning would be enough.?
Click to expand...

the only time oil in an auto box goes black is by a burnt clutch pack , you could stand box with bell housing up and remove bell housing and pump plate ,clutch A and B are the 2 most common to fail and easily replaced
 
Today I run the car for about 50kms and she changed gears very nice (form 1st to 2nd around 2200rpm). I will keep using it and see what happens. In the meanwhile I look for a used box from the UK (hard to find in Hungary).
 
sierrafery said:
did you try these guys Rover's Land - Kezdőlap ? i bought several parts from them a while ago, they are reliable
Click to expand...

have you bought from hungary, or they have other location? I have talked to them, they have only one box, but no oil in it! So I can not even check the oil before I put it in the car.
The other problem is that it is relatively expensive (600€) and no warranty (only 1 week).
anyway, thanks for the idea!
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

E
Auto gearbox woes
Replies
3
Views
235
sierrafery
sierrafery
D
Disco 1 3.9l v8 automatic gearbox problems
Replies
1
Views
222
Firebobby1
Firebobby1
manuidat50
Disco 2 autobox loss of reverse drive.
Replies
3
Views
646
discool
discool
N
Noise from gearbox/transfer box
Replies
14
Views
728
NeilsWheels
N
S
Disco 3 (LR3) Vibration on acceleration and cruising
Replies
9
Views
625
SM1543
S
Back
Top