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Got a D2 last week and my Freelander went in p/ex. I'll change my sig shortly. Stand by for air suspension queries and all those other faults familiar to you all.:) Be gentle with a Discovery newbie. Allan

Have a look in this months Land Rover Monthly magazine. They did a feature on a TD4 clutch swap. Allan

Your window is working correctly. You cannot stop the window on the way up. You must stop the window in the desired position on the way down. Allan

The motor operates for a set time. If there is slack in the cable then even if it just takes up the slack rather than move the window. The tesioner is an assembly with a spring around it on one of the cable entries to the motor. Allan

Looks like you'll have to take the trim off and check the cables. If a cable has broken or the tensioner isn't operating then the window won't go down when opening the door. Allan

Where's the best place to earth the lights? I've spotted a couple of earth wires near the headlights, can I just piggy back these? If you've got the genuine wiring loom it should reach these earths. Where's the best place to mount the relay? There should be a bracket in the kit which mounts...

As title see here. NY want to effectively ban motorised vehicles from any unsurfaced route. http://www.northyorks.gov.uk/index.aspx?articleid=18991 Allan

One from a Peugeot fits apparently. It's a search job but I do remember seeing a full "How to" somewhere. Allan

Do a search on here. The subject crops up on a regular basis so there is lots of info about the various faults. BTW welcome to the forum. Allan

This is the tool I made to get a stuck injector out. See this thread. http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/td4-injector-removal-48915-2.html Allan

Don't forget the sedimenter that is with the pump/filter unit. It should be drained occasionally. Allan

Guy I know has recently had the slave cylinder go. He had the use of a lift but it was still a pain of a job for him. There is a lot of stuff to come of before you get the gearbox out, because of the hassle he not only replaced the slave cylinder but also replaced the clutch and the dual mass...

I'm fairly sure that when I had this isue with my previous FL it was related to an injector being faulty. Amongst other things it was running rough just after start up and was running on after switch off. When I changed the injector it didn't run on any more. Allan

Do a search there is lots on here about this subject. Allan

Do search on the forum. Lots abou this. Here is a start. http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/repair-tail-door-window-regulator-67657.html Allan

Glad you've fixed it. Sorry for not replying earlier but away from forum. Allan

The earlier 3 door roof bars didn't have drain holes. The vertical sections of the bars retained water and come cold weather the water froze and expanded, cracking the aluminium. This showed up as a silver vertical crack on the rear of the bars. Unless you can inspect your prospective purchase...

When I changed an injector, coincidentally also No1, I couldn't initially get the washer out. I ended up using a sharp chisel to split the copper washer and thus deform it enough to get a purchase on it to pull it out. You shouldn't damage the seating face if you are careful. Allan

Maybe the tensioning device has failed. With the door trim off and the door open try moving the glass up and down. If it does, it shouldn't. The tensioner is the white plastic assembly in the cable from the left side of the window (RH side if looking at the door with trim removed). Try pulling...

I recently had to do the rear window thing again. This time I bought one of the repair kits off the bay from a seller "ensarian". The cables were fine but the tensioning device plastic mouldings were not OE quality. The serrated tooth part of the tensioner would not lock in the extended...